stuck Posted December 5, 2014 Share Posted December 5, 2014 Hi all, My 4.6 110 needs a new exhaust as the one I cobbled together to transplant the lump is showing it's age. In an ideal world I'd have a stainless custom bobbie like the one HFH has but failing that I was wondering if anyone had any experience of this from Rimmer Bros: http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-LR1073 Doesn't appear to have a boss for the sensor but I can sort that. I've never used Rimmer Bros so I'm unsure what their kit is like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roverdrive Posted December 5, 2014 Share Posted December 5, 2014 I had a SS exhaust on my 101 from Rimmers. It was good quality and fitted first time, though it did not include the 4 branch manifold indicated in your link. The exhaust developed a brown finish fairly quickly which was due to the grade of stainless used I believe. HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickwilliams Posted December 5, 2014 Share Posted December 5, 2014 Bought quite a few bits from Rimmers ('tho never any exhaust parts) and have never had any problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris200100 Posted December 5, 2014 Share Posted December 5, 2014 I got a Rimmer Bros stainless exhaust on my 3.5 v8 its a very good system went together well, sounds nice not too loud. The system is made by falcon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertspark Posted December 5, 2014 Share Posted December 5, 2014 I had one on mine and ran it for 8 years from 2000 although going brown (304ss) it's been great. Would recommend although I was not too impressed as it needed gentle adjustment (hammer) to clear the chassis rail on one of the branches (3.5 90 original from factory) Got the stud kit with it too with copper (or was it brass) nuts I think from memory I was once told by Colin at scorpion that a janspeed would have got me a few more Bhp. But I was happy and no one as far as I'm aware has actually tested them but it did sound great (could here it coming no probs and gave a nice hot exhaust backfire under deceleration with Su carbs and the poppet valves (unsoldered thanks!) after a long run Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bingy Posted December 5, 2014 Share Posted December 5, 2014 I have the full kit on my 4.6 90 As Rob has said it did need a bit of tweaking to get it to fit better i had to cut a bit off one side before it went into the y peice And also had to weld the bung on for the Megasquirt lambada probe Its fairly loud in the garage and mine also says falcon on the plates tacked to the exhaust Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted December 5, 2014 Share Posted December 5, 2014 Doesn't help you in any way but My dad went on a behind the scenes tour of rimmers and it's a very impressive setup by all accounts. When rover went they bought all the spares they could get their hands on from the dealers. They found a closed factory abroad that made had loads of rover parts that they imported. They even bought ex factory tooling or had pattern parts made. I forget how many orders they processed a day but they post all over the world. I've been in to buy parts and they seem knowledgeable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertspark Posted December 5, 2014 Share Posted December 5, 2014 I welded two bungs on mine for wbo2 tuning No plates listing the manufacturer on mine but it was bought 14 years ago Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuck Posted December 6, 2014 Author Share Posted December 6, 2014 Thanks all, Tonnes of good info there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jocklandjohn Posted December 6, 2014 Share Posted December 6, 2014 I bought one from Rimmers for my 110 in 1998 and fitted it myself - it went on fine. Ran it for 8 years, up to 2006 and of course the connecting brackets at the section joins (being cast not stainless) failed eventually. I contacted RImmers and invoked the lifetime warranty which elicited a wee bit of confusion. I was told I'd need to provide the original receipt. They seemed surprised when I said it's xxxxxxxxx - "Oh ok, right, we changed our invoicing system a few years ago and we no longer use that numbering system and we don't have a record of your purchase I'm afraid..........but........the fact that you have that number means you did buy it from us because that numbering was unique to us. So ok certainly we can fix it for you but you'll need to pay for carriage both ways I'm afraid as that's not part of the warranty." So that's pretty good I thought. It was a bit of a laugh with the chap because he was surprised I"d kept the invoice (lesson there lads!). However now the spolier - it was so expensive to send the exhaust from the Highlands down and back I ended up at the local welder and they stuck a few plates on the joints for less than the postage cost! I ran it for another 4 years to 2012 (several very salty winters though) and the replacement plates failed and this time the (new) welder chap thought it was a smart idea to simply cut the stainless pipe end flares off, slip on new connector plates, weld back on flares. Fine except he used mild steel weld! I pulled him up on it and he said the mild steel weld will last as long as the mild steel connecting plates so they'll both need replacing at the same time. Hmmph! Anyway the mild steel weld failed so I replaced with a full mild steel exhaust system and put the stainless bits in the shed and as I now have a welder that does stainless I will cut off the mild carp and reweld with stainless myself and fit stainless connecting plates before I do ( found some on ebay). Bottom line - fit was good, price was good and invoking the lifetime warranty a decade later got a positive response.Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertspark Posted December 6, 2014 Share Posted December 6, 2014 .... if you're welding stainless to mild steel use 309 stainless filler .... (as noted above my exhaust was 304 as far as I am aware which is common for exhausts sold as stainless, but you can get 316 too (but it's more expensive) and the ultimate seems to be 321/625 but think about a second mortgage.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jocklandjohn Posted December 6, 2014 Share Posted December 6, 2014 .... if you're welding stainless to mild steel use 309 stainless filler .... (as noted above my exhaust was 304 as far as I am aware which is common for exhausts sold as stainless, but you can get 316 too (but it's more expensive) and the ultimate seems to be 321/625 but think about a second mortgage.... No it will be stainless to stainless. The errant welder used mild steel wire to weld the stainless flare he'd cut off back onto the stainless pipe it used to live happily on. If I'm doing anything it will be stainless to stainless, with stainless wire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJM90V8 Posted December 8, 2014 Share Posted December 8, 2014 Fitted one to my V8 '90 many years ago -1996- and still going OK. Picked up an advisory "slight exhaust leak" on the last MOT but it is so small I can't find it. Generally I would say quality "very good" (at least back then) but I did find at the time that there were a few errors with the misc fitting parts supplied (nuts, bolts, gaskets) though these were sorted by Rimmer. +1 for Rimmer from me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuck Posted December 8, 2014 Author Share Posted December 8, 2014 Cheers chaps. Ordered the exhaust & stud kit tonight. Quick couple of questions for those that have already fitted this: Did you use any exhaust sealant on any of the sliding joints or was it ok steel to steel? What thread is needed for the boss for the lambda probe as suppled by HFH? Mick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jocklandjohn Posted December 9, 2014 Share Posted December 9, 2014 I didn't use sealant on the sliding joints and it seems to have been ok. I'd also give the connecting clamps several coats of some high-temp rust inhibitor painty stuff if you can be bothered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuck Posted December 9, 2014 Author Share Posted December 9, 2014 Cheers John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertspark Posted December 10, 2014 Share Posted December 10, 2014 No sealant on mine, metal to metal. Think it was blowing a bit from one of the slotted push / slip joints but was never picked up on at mot time. needed a wooden block and a gentle tap for some of the push or slip joints. suggest (unlike me) you have a go at maybe partially assembling it on the floor first to open up some of the slip on joints maybe with a tapered timber wedge (scrap wood) just a bit. HTH Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuck Posted December 10, 2014 Author Share Posted December 10, 2014 Cheers Rob, Exhaust arrived today & I have to say I'm pleasantly surprised by the quality. I've pushed all the sliding joints together & wrapped the manifolds tonight. Just need to butcher modify the "Y" piece for the lambda sensor tomorrow & hope to fit it on Sunday Cheers for the recommendation guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuck Posted December 14, 2014 Author Share Posted December 14, 2014 Thought I'd post this for anyone reading this thread that may be considering the same exhaust. Fitted this to my 2000 110 4.6. The kit fitted fine & didn't require any fettling apart from the fact that non of the exhaust mountings can be used with the mounting points on what used to be a Td5 (Obviously the kit isn't designed to fit a Td5 era truck!) but if you have a Tig set you can soon sort that. Acoustically the exhaust is what I was looking for, at idle it's nice and quiet giving a pleasant V8 burble, stamp on the loud pedal & you can certainly hear the V8 make it's signature tune but it doesn't make you sound like a chav in his Corsa with the silencers removed All in all, recommended if you don't want to awaken the dead! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oakmaster Posted December 17, 2014 Share Posted December 17, 2014 Im on the point of getting a Rimmer bros SS system too for my 3.5 V8 110 - What are the pros and cons of NOT having the tubular manifolds? I assume that they are a slightly larger bore with fewer boxes (showing my ignorance here!) so Id still get a small performance increase? - I want to hear all that petrol (& LPG) but I don't want to be failing any MOTs etc? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris200100 Posted December 17, 2014 Share Posted December 17, 2014 I wasn't going to get the tubular manifolds when I was looking but I ended getting the sports system with manifolds and it was the best thing I did. They fit with no problems, it's not over noisy and it passed the Mot with them no problems. I would highly recommend getting them. I haven't wrapped them as I've heard bad things when the wrapping get old. My 110 does pull better with the sports system on it compared with the old system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
need4speed Posted December 17, 2014 Share Posted December 17, 2014 I was considering these. However they are a 4-1 design rather than a 4-2-1 design, meaning they lose a fair bit of torque and move the power higher up the rev range. On the advice of Nige i went with a pair of twin-port disco v8 manifolds mated to a td5 system. Im informed that this will perform pretty well. Hopefully by the time these rot away i will be able to afford some stainless 4-2-1 manifolds.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertspark Posted December 17, 2014 Share Posted December 17, 2014 Won't fail an mot Never had a ss one without a tubular manifold so can't compare. The oem exhaust was very quiet. Know I was not disappointed with the sound of my tubular 90 3.5. Did bring a smile to my face every time I drove it with the happy pedal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidW Posted December 18, 2014 Share Posted December 18, 2014 I was considering these. However they are a 4-1 design rather than a 4-2-1 design, meaning they lose a fair bit of torque and move the power higher up the rev range. On the advice of Nige i went with a pair of twin-port disco v8 manifolds mated to a td5 system. Im informed that this will perform pretty well. Hopefully by the time these rot away i will be able to afford some stainless 4-2-1 manifolds.. Did this require some sort of custom pipe to link the two systems together. I'm about to start rebuilding my 90 as a 3.9 v8 on a galv chassis and would love to find a way not to spend £600 on an exhaust right now. David. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
need4speed Posted December 18, 2014 Share Posted December 18, 2014 Nope. Disco v8 manifolds with matching non-cat downpipes that go into 1. Standard TD5 from there back. A little trimming of TD5 system at front. Only utilising 1 silencer box so expecting it to be very fruity sounding. Edit: Nige and Fridge tell me that these manifolds actually flow very well for standard cast manifolds. The only other thing to remember is that you must use the tubular type v8 gearbox crossmember. If you use the TD5 type the downpipes will foul. You may be able to butcher the TD5 crossmember for clearance but i just picked up a tubular crossmember from ebay for about a tenner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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