Maverik Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 Hi folks, during my convalescence I'm doing a bit of planning... I've been doing a fair bit of reading up on the td5 (02 Defender), and I've decided to pull the engine out to do the clutch, so I've got a list of other wee jobs to do around the same time... See below Td5 Engine jobs list: Change clutch (flywheel, plate, cover, bolts, spigot, release bearing) Change rear engine crank oil seal Oil filters (x2) Change oil Injector loom change I'm aware there are a few other areas to keep an eye out, I.e area around fuel regulator leaking. Can anyone add any more pearls of wisdom for me on top of what I've got down to do already? Any perticular jobs I should be looking at while the engine is out...? Cheers Mav Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8 Freak Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 While the top is off, pop out the round black plastic seal / hole filler at the front of the head, clean up and seal with a good silicone sealant and pop back in.... Replace crank sensor... (In top of bell-housing) Check / re-set the rockers on the injectors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 Glow plugs they are really cheap and an easy job to do when the engine is out. Take a photo of the engine loom before you remove it as it will help with getting the routing right when you put it back. If you haven't already easy time to strip of the EGR Check the Fuel pressure regulator for leaks, again easy job to do when engine is out (as you have said above,) it will leak onto the GP bell housing and into the clutch, you will notice it when you split the engine.) Change the thermostat as they are again buttons Check the engine idler pulleys for play, you can just change the bearings Check the turbo for xs play you can just buy the cartridge if an issue. Decat if not already done. Paint/protect the chassis rails whilst the engine is out. Also check the exhaust manifold as these can warp with the heat again you will see any leaks when you remove the engine. As you have to remove the rad reverse flush the system and check it's in good nick. Think that's it, it was a couple of years ago since I did my engine swap, a couple of friends and you will have it done in a morning. Jason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rangy35 Posted February 6, 2015 Share Posted February 6, 2015 Renew the visco fan bearing in the timing cover while there is space. You need to remove the sump to do the rear main seal, you will need a sump gasket and a new rotor filter return tube gasket. Dont know if the vehicle was run with coolant its whole life, if not I will fit a new engine oil cooler kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanuki Posted February 6, 2015 Share Posted February 6, 2015 Replace water-pump; it's a bugger to get at with the engine in the vehicle. Check and examine the rubber bonding on the flywheel damper/pulley: it's a lot easier to replace with the engine out [remember to fit new bolt if you do replace the pulley: if it comes loose it does bad things to the nose of the crank]. While you've got it out, replace tensioners & serp belt. Again, much easier to do when there's no radiator/intercooler/fan blocking access. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted February 6, 2015 Author Share Posted February 6, 2015 Great, thanks chaps some good advice for me there, I'll be planning on doing a few more jobs now... And better start saving for a few more bits... Cheers Mav Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted February 6, 2015 Author Share Posted February 6, 2015 While the top is off, pop out the round black plastic seal / hole filler at the front of the head, clean up and seal with a good silicone sealant and pop back in....Replace crank sensor... (In top of bell-housing)Check / re-set the rockers on the injectors. With regarde to the rockers reset? Can you elaborate for me a bit, what am I resetting? Cheers Mav Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted February 6, 2015 Share Posted February 6, 2015 Oil pump drive bolt check? Inspect/change contacts on starter solenoid? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave88sw Posted February 7, 2015 Share Posted February 7, 2015 With regarde to the rockers reset? Can you elaborate for me a bit, what am I resetting? Cheers Mav The injectors are quite easy to set, you simply turn the engine over until the injector you want to set is at maximum opening (quite easy to see, just watch the lobe of the rocker shaft), back off the lock nut and wind the screw all the way in until it stops, then back it off exactly one turn and tighten the locknut Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shackleton Posted February 8, 2015 Share Posted February 8, 2015 There's an inspection hole underneath the engine mounts. Through it you should have 10mm gap between the rubber inside and the steel cup of the mount. You'll get away with less but if the rubber is touching metal or if it's getting close... It's one of those genuine parts only jobs too Def worth checking the oil cooler. In my experience they can look fine with only a few white specks of corrosion on them, but those specks are holes just waiting to happen and oil in the galleries is something that'll haunt you for months. The sump gasket job is 3x easier with the lump on a stand and upside down rather than in the LR. Oh and the little rear acoustic cover is a pain to put on while the engine's in the car too. RE Neil's comment, you'd be adjusting the plunge on the injectors. It's not crucial but certainly no harm, it can be the difference between a responsive engine and not, but it can also destroy your injectors if you leave to much plunge. Follow the instructions surrounding the very last picture on this how to by UP. Didn't pick up that you were ill Mav, hope it's nothing lasting and best of luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted February 8, 2015 Author Share Posted February 8, 2015 Good link George thanks for that, kills a few birds with one stone there. Regarding oil cooler, so that would be to crack open the housing and check out the wee plate cooler that's housed inside, I see he repair kits predominantly have a spare one of those and replacement gaskets... If I just went in for a look do I have to change the gaskets? Are they material or metal type... As I see from the parts book there are ones between the boil filter housing to the cooler housing as well... Do they need replacing? - I've found some Vinton 75 o rings to replace the plate cooler to body connection as I read they fail more often than not. I've got a busted hip... So nothing that won't heal with time... "yawn"... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted February 8, 2015 Author Share Posted February 8, 2015 George, just read your post on your oil cooler escapades... Some handy if not slightly daunting info... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shackleton Posted February 8, 2015 Share Posted February 8, 2015 I wouldn't take the chance reusing the gaskets, but then some do and I was tempted. A gun of Hylomar 3400 is a great thing regardless. It's a high temp sealant that only goes off when in contact with metal and it's the stuff you seal the cam carrier part of the head on with if you're doing a head gasket. By the by, I found that one of the o-rings is a snug replacement for the rings on the coolant cap which expand and get loose. It's not the oil cooler ones, I can't remember though, it might be the large FPR one. Ah the whole cooler thing was a pain in the neck for me but I made life hard by trying to get inventive. If you've owned the Defender from new, have been good about the coolant, and haven't had any stray current running across the block then maybe you could skip it altogether. If not then just get one of the well documented replacement units. When you get the oil cooler & housing back on the engine don't put the centrifuge filter housing back on straight away. It makes it impossible to get at the two cooler bolts and as the o-rings compress over time the bolts could do with a bit more of a turn. But then you could check for the proper torque setting which I must have forgotten to do Glad about the hip, the gangster walk while its healing will be good craic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rangy35 Posted February 12, 2015 Share Posted February 12, 2015 That is a very good link and write up, just one thing missing when "rocking" the engine to make sure you have full plunger depth. If you look at the front of the cam shaft where the cam sprocket bolts to you will see numbers 1-5 marked on it. There is also a marker they should be lined up with, then you have it perfect as the designer intended it to be. I will upload photos of this tomorrow.........oops maybe not tomorrow its the start of the Super Rugby and I have tickets for the Brumbys Reds game live. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted April 30, 2016 Author Share Posted April 30, 2016 Now I've got a bone to pick with the generous posters in this topic, not one actually told me that all above jobs are complete pigs to do on the td5, I've not found one part of the design of the engine that I've thought "nice" what a complete and utter pain in the neck the td5, you can't do any jobs without having to remove something else which is usually perfectly fine! So you end up having to get all the associated gaskets and o rings and seals to just re assembling the perfectly fine bits... Grr and what's the point in having multi plugs on the loom when non of them actually do anything usfull!!!! Not a fan!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landy-Novice Posted April 30, 2016 Share Posted April 30, 2016 abit late but if you havnt already, well worth replacing core plug behind the exhaust manifold. they rot out and are a pitfa to change otherwise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted April 30, 2016 Author Share Posted April 30, 2016 Yeah when the turbo got moved the other day there was a pink stain from it, so will get it looked at in the next day or so. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shackleton Posted May 3, 2016 Share Posted May 3, 2016 lol, life would be dull if you always knew what was in store Mav. It's true for sure if you're going for the oil cooler it involves disturbing a few things you'd rather not. You're engine's probably in better nick now for it though. What was the craic with the multiplugs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted May 4, 2016 Author Share Posted May 4, 2016 ha "dull"... hmmm I can handle dull right now... ahhh yes engine loom plugs... there are a cluster of them on the drivers side bulkhead, you'd think if you unplug them then "yay" you don't have to unthread the engine loom... wrong, it makes me sad. I think the only engines you can do it on are the earlier 200/300 defenders and the 200 Disco had those bulkhead plugs which for some strange reason where deleted on the later versions. - I hate disturbing electrics that have been baked around the engine, asking for trouble... I will say one thing, as much as I hate to admit it, the Td5 engine has had a good bit of thought put into it, and they're definitely built with longevity between service intervals and longevity of function of parts in mind, I say this because everything is so flippin hard to access... (caveat - without removing the inlet/exhaust manifolds)! Maybe more fool me, but I took an executive decision on the oil cooler to leave it alone. everything else I've had open indicated a pretty easy pampered life and I was getting the distinct impression I was potentially making more work for myself and disturbing perfectly good items. Aldo after inspecting the head drain plug - (it was actually loose) there was no corrosion on the plug at all - and you can actually peer into the oil cooler housing from the water way at the back of the engine, everything was nice and shiney, so I decided to leave it. When its full back together I'll write a summary of the work, I'm just waiting on an manifold inlet gasket to appear which is taking way to long to get delivered... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave88sw Posted May 4, 2016 Share Posted May 4, 2016 If you unplug the red ecu plug under the drivers seat, push out its grommet and feed the loom through under the bonnet, the loom will stay with the engine. I'm doing a chassis swap on a 110 so have just done this. I understand it could possibly be hard work with the car still built up though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shackleton Posted May 4, 2016 Share Posted May 4, 2016 So the cooler was shiney? Sounds like it may have been replaced already. Take this as words without agenda but I have to say it - my cooler was perfect across 99.999999% of the body save for three tiny white flecks of oxidisation on the edges closest to the coolant entry. I mistakenly thought that they were so small they couldn't be that deep and gently brushed them off with my finger. One of them immediately wept oil. I was in the exact same position as you where I was in indecision about whether to disturb the cooler and in the end the thought of having to do it all again got the better of me so I had a proper look, and I'm glad I did cause I know I'm not going back in there for a long time. If you do decide to look and it does need replacing, just go straight for the like for like aftermarket one (unless you can do genuine). RE the Td5 in general, glad to hear you saying that because whereas I was fairly hacked off at the stage you're at, I was always impressed with the amount of built in longevity as you put it. I never worked on a Tdi so I don't know what I'm missing but I never felt the loom was a pain and I both disconnected everything and pushed the ECU plug through (I had to because I was doing a conversion.) Know I've probably just thrown a spanner in the works but I care lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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