Mutley Posted February 8, 2015 Share Posted February 8, 2015 Can some nice person tell me what size Pozi bit/tool i need to undo the rusty philip screws in the door hinges (driver and passenger side)? Plus if i replace the hinges is it best to use genuine ones or are they all pretty much the same just the price that vairies??? Cheers Mutley Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted February 8, 2015 Share Posted February 8, 2015 Genuine hinges only, the cheap ones can have more play in them out of the box than your old ones will. I got a set of new take-off Td5 ones. Not sure on bit size, PH3 or PH4 perhaps? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
need4speed Posted February 8, 2015 Share Posted February 8, 2015 What James said. Replacement hinges absolutely must be genuine. I used an impact driver to remove my old ones. Very handy tool. Well worth investing in one. I cant remember what size bit i used and unfortumately ive lent it out to a friend so cant nip out and see.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutley Posted February 8, 2015 Author Share Posted February 8, 2015 Thanks guys, so will keep eye out on the Bay for a set of used genuine then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pw8757 Posted February 8, 2015 Share Posted February 8, 2015 Mine appeared to be PZ3...... Still had to chop the hinges and grind them though.... Haven't bought the replacements yet, so interested to see the replies about new ones....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted February 8, 2015 Share Posted February 8, 2015 These days you can get stainless bolts with the correct profile heads on, might be worth a shot if you fancy it. I fitted a stainless set years ago but they were just standard countersunk ones and while the bolts haven't rusted the wrong profiled heads damaged the paint on the hinges which are now nice and rusty. Also be prepared to replace the spire nuts underneath. Be aware there are 5/16" UNF (up to 300Tdi) and M8 metric (Td5 on) versions - though obviously as long as you replace both bolts and nuts with the same it doesn't matter. One last thing to be aware of is that the Td5-on hinges are a slightly different shape to the older type. Bolt pattern etc is the same but the shape where they rest on door and bulkhead is different so if your car was painted after the hinges were fitted (quite likely) it could leave a gap in the topcoat round the new hinge. As a result there are also two corresponding shape sets of the gaskets/shims that go between the hinge and the bulkhead/door - and again using the older type with the new hinges for example looks a bit odd (though works fine). Make sure you set the shims properly again or you'll wonder why there's suddenly a howling gale through your door gaps! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutley Posted February 8, 2015 Author Share Posted February 8, 2015 Cheers for that Retro... This might be a dumb question, but i'll ask any way.... with requiring x4 hinges and the different part numbers, could i save bother if say x2 sets of near side hinges came up on the bay and just turned one set upside down to fit the off side??? If you get what i mean? Obviously the top n/s turn upside down and fit top o/s Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
need4speed Posted February 8, 2015 Share Posted February 8, 2015 No i dont that will work. Pretty sure theyre sided.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted February 8, 2015 Share Posted February 8, 2015 If you look at the hinges you will see that the hinge axis itself is not vertical, that's why they are sided. And the upper hinge on each side has holes for the mirror arm as well of course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutley Posted February 8, 2015 Author Share Posted February 8, 2015 That's pants!!!!! I know, that's LR too! Oh well has any one got the x4 part numbers for a Td5 set or 300tdi set of hinges? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 8, 2015 Share Posted February 8, 2015 parts info websites in request for part number forum or use Retro's 90 & 110 parts books on his website. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2dextas Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 hi i have just gone through the process including new galv 2nd row doors from SPS ,some points which may help reduce messing about SPS doors are slightly thicker than normal at hinge bolt point as the bolt housing tube protrudes more than on standard/oem doors as a result 55mm bolts dont work you need 60mm i had various stainless bolts inc allen screw and torx the fitment varies quite a bit - some seat well and deeply others the heads dont seat well again this affects bolt length, i suggest if going for stainless you get hinges/ bolts from same source so you have some come back otherwise hinge suppliers blame bolts and bolt suppliers say they fit all hinges they have tested! you are in the middle As pointed out the TD5 hinge profile is rounded, original/older hinges are more square so new gaskets - these are not cheap for what they are ( £2.70 approx ea) they are sided and front/2nd row are different as has been pointed out impact drivers etc will probably not shift all screws its easier quicker to cut them if replacing hinges Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutley Posted February 10, 2015 Author Share Posted February 10, 2015 Ok just spoke to a guy at an unofficial Land Rover place. Seems that the old type hinge is no longer in production, the new type part number BDB710..... how ever, he says there is no difference in quality from the LR genuine ones as against the Britpart!?! .plus he reccons the Britpart are better all roun finish and build!?! Any thoughtsopinions do we still advocate genuine new type hinge??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orgasmic Farmer Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 Don't mess about trying to undo the old ones if the hinges are shot. Buy new hinges, bolts and J-nuts and just cut the old ones off with the grinder. Saves a lot of heartache and swearing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutley Posted February 10, 2015 Author Share Posted February 10, 2015 Thanks guys plus can any one tell me how or direct me to a thread or info of how to put the new hinges on? Not sure how the attach to body, guess to fit on the door the door card is removed? But fixing to body has got me for access. Also just how do yo cut the old ones off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orgasmic Farmer Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 If you have a good drill it can be simpler to drill into the cross on the end of the bolt until you remove the thick end and are into the parallel shank of the bolt. The hinge will then slide off (maybe need to smack the end of the bolt with a punch to free it off. The door end will need to have the card removed to access the nuts on the inside. This part of the hinge may come undone if you are lucky. Do the door end first anyway so that you can remove the door and stick it somewhere safe out of the way while you tackle getting the hinge off the bulkhead. If the nuts on the inside of the door won't come off then use an angle grinder to remove them. With door gone work on the bulkhead bolts, either by drilling out as above or by cutting straight through the hinge with a good grinder. This is a one way job and the hinges will be scrap. Once removed you will see clearly hove the bolts fix to the bulkhead. There is a sort of captive nut in a sprung steel clip arrangement. This can be knocked off and replaced with new ones. Usually they will fall inside the bulkhead if not careful when removing. You can fish them out through the bottom hole using a magnet on a stick if it bothers you. Best to not drop them if you can help it. New captive bolts are cheap enough and should be replaced whenever you have the hinges off anyway if not done for a few years. Maybe someone can post up a diagram from the parts book so you can see what is there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutley Posted February 10, 2015 Author Share Posted February 10, 2015 Thanks for that bit of info Mountain Man seems a little, no a LOT clearer and i'm a lot happier after reading that. Just need to decide now on the hinges new genuine at silly money or the Britpart ones this guy was on about at a 1/3 the cost??????? My thinking is if the Britpart ones only last 4yrs. I can buy x2 more sets and have 12 yrs. in total for the price of genuine, and would genuine realistically last any longer than 12+yrs???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ericthefish Posted February 26, 2015 Share Posted February 26, 2015 Just fitted new heavy duty galvanised hinges with stainless steel bolts from SGS 4x4 very good hinges only £54 delivered drilled out old bolts pull off door cut the bolts off tight to the retaining nuts push up the clip and out very easy you get new retaining nuts with the kit as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Barrett Posted February 27, 2015 Share Posted February 27, 2015 What kind of state are the bolt heads in Mutley? I've got a ferkin big posi screwdriver which you can put an 8mm spanner onto the shaft of. Lean on the screwdriver and turn. It took some effort but it worked for mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted February 27, 2015 Share Posted February 27, 2015 I have a large pozi socket with 1/2" drive, so can tackle these a bit more easily. The risk is chewing up the heads. Much easier to drill them than chop the whole hinge with a grinder, and the drill won't shower everything with hot hot sparks that embed into plastic or glass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutley Posted February 27, 2015 Author Share Posted February 27, 2015 Thanks for the offer Ian but for ease and les hassle think it's going to be like Snagger says, DRILL 'em out! By the way as previously stated have Sh*tpart hinges, have ben looking at the fitting kit tonight and noticed that there are x8 plastic washer type things and x4 smaller ones (the x4 for mirror screw/bolts ). Which screw/bolts do the x8 plastic washer things go on, the body fixing screw/bolts or the door screw/bolts? And do you put them on up to the head of the screw/bolt, just before the nut goes on or what? Typical no F****** instructions for muppets! lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 There should be one plastic shim between the hinge and bulkhead, and that will have a raised lip if you have the odl style with square corners. Later hinges used flat shims and seem to have them between the door and hinge too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mutley Posted February 28, 2015 Author Share Posted February 28, 2015 Got that bit Snagger it is the little plastic washer type things in the B..part kit that i'm not sure about? There is only x8 of them and x16 bolts so dont know which of x16 bolts these washer type things go on or at what stage? If any one can shed light? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 Without a photo, I'd have to make a guess. If they're big enough for the main bolts,t hen I'd say the go between the nut inside the door frame and the door itself. If they're small, they must be for the mirror arm bolts. Washers will not be used on the door pillar at all or between the hinge and door - only shaped rectangular (with rounded corners for later hinges) plastic shims go between the panels and hinges. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oneandtwo Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 The plastic washers are seals. They go between the door frame and nut on the inside and when the hinge bolts are tightened they deform and form a seal to prevent water ingress through the tubes in the doorframe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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