IanT90 Posted June 9, 2015 Share Posted June 9, 2015 Just spent best part of an hour trying to get the wheel bearing races out with a puller with no success. Didn't want to drift them out in case I did some damage. They appear to be in good serviceable condition. Could I leave them in and re-use with the new bearings ? Read somewhere that bearings and races come in matched sets so not sure if I can re-use. If push comes to shove I will have to drift them out with a punch or old screw driver, then there is the problem of how to get the new ones in I don't have a press was thinking of using the old bearing and a G clamp ! Any recommendations ? holding up the job now getting withdrawal symptoms now not driven the old girl in over a week Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted June 9, 2015 Share Posted June 9, 2015 Don't leave them in and use them with new bearings, they WILL fail very quickly if you do that! Drift the old ones out, always worked for me. Use a decent quality square-ended drift and you won't damage the hub. To get the new ones in cut a slot out of one of the old races and then use this as a sort of drift to hammer the new race in on each side. The slot is so that you can remove it easily once the new race is fully home. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanT90 Posted June 9, 2015 Author Share Posted June 9, 2015 Thanks much appreciated I particularly like the slot in the old race so I can remove it after. Regards Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted June 9, 2015 Share Posted June 9, 2015 as above, bearings are machined as matching sets, any wear in the old race (visually evident or not) will reduce working life and cause excessive hassle. be sure to replace the rear hub seal too, with a decent quality seal as this is the only barrier between dirt and grit and your bearings, at which point even with the best bearings in the world they wont last 5 minutes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddy Posted June 9, 2015 Share Posted June 9, 2015 Take a fat ended punch and grind it into an oval shape, makes drifting out races easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Team Idris Posted June 9, 2015 Share Posted June 9, 2015 A run of weld shrinks them and they fall out. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zim Posted June 9, 2015 Share Posted June 9, 2015 Ditto the weld comment. Much easier Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted June 9, 2015 Share Posted June 9, 2015 Many years ago while working nights at the Ford main dealer I got in to work to see the stores Transit pick up loaded up with two cardboard boxes of taper roller bearings that the stores had picked up from Torringtons the bearing manufacturer. Nothing unusual except, one box was full of the races, the other box full of tracks for our stores to sort into a bearing set. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanT90 Posted June 9, 2015 Author Share Posted June 9, 2015 That figures but not so critical with new bearing and race, suppose mixing a worn race with new bearing or visa versa isn't a good idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted June 9, 2015 Share Posted June 9, 2015 That figures but not so critical with new bearing and race, suppose mixing a worn race with new bearing or visa versa isn't a good idea. Yes I agree with you but in the end it contradicts everything about taper roller bearings that has been drilled into our heads Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UdderlyOffroad Posted June 9, 2015 Share Posted June 9, 2015 Just to add to the above, if you want to be sooper safe, you could use a brass drift. Assuming you don't get too 'Birmingham' on it, the brass will deform rather than damage the hub. Lacking a suitable lump of the aforementioned, I just tap it out with light taps at the 12, 6, 3 and 9 o'clock positions... Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanuki Posted June 9, 2015 Share Posted June 9, 2015 Not sure if it applies to all LR hubs, but on some there are cutouts in the hubs so you can get a drift to bear directly on the outer bearing-race to drift them out. I remember watching a soon-to-be-failed-apprentice who'd spent ages futilely twatting with a drift-and-hammer on a Jaguar front hub trying to get the outer-races out - he'd actually been hitting the drift against the inner step of the cast hub not the bearing! Dunking the entire hub in the solvent-tank for a few minutes shifted all the grease so he could then see the two machined sections of the hub conveniently provided 180-degrees-apart by the manufacturer so you could get a drift through the hub-bore and onto the inner face of the outer race. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IanT90 Posted June 9, 2015 Author Share Posted June 9, 2015 No such luck for me just a narrow rim. Orderd a set of punches of various diameters just find the most appropriate size and take my time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete3000 Posted June 9, 2015 Share Posted June 9, 2015 brass bar drift, so the material is softer than your hubs, 15mm dia round bar 200-250mm long, expensive but add it to the toolbox. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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