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Tangoman
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I've heard of this as a recommendation - I'm not sure why it is recommended.

Some have said it is to retain the ball bearings as the brake is reassembled.

Others have said it is to remove the judder as the brake starts to operate.

Seems to me that greasing a friction lining of any type is not a great idea - it will reduce the effectiveness of the lining, which negates the point of fitting the larger linings IMHO.

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expect TC will have a view, didnt Jay do this and suffer with slipping there after.

as Si says i think its to hold the ball bearings in place, Nick have fun putting keeping that circlip on the end, turn into a nightmare on mine after upgrading the pads when the old ones disintergrated. although if you have the older setup without the shims or upgraded or drilled shaft it wont be an issue. mine let go three times after rebuilding it, not nice!

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Mo - No (although Mark 90 has this mod) TC did mine for me (i was late back and was meant to be doing it!!!!) fitted hardend shaft from Giggle pin takes out the sideways float therefore making the brake more efficient as no slack to take up and also has a predrilled and tapped end for an allen bolt so no more circlips for me.

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Seems to me that greasing a friction lining of any type is not a great idea - it will reduce the effectiveness of the lining, which negates the point of fitting the larger linings IMHO.

Plenty of 'bikes and stuff are designed with wet clutches - I think some machinery even has wet brakes. You have to use the right oil and, I suspect, the right friction material too.

Chris

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like some one said best thing to do is ring Gwyn , he would be more than please to tell you his views

i was down there last week and bought his uprated pads

as his pads are bigger (more surface area) any small lubricating effect of the grease wount be noticed over the original pads , as already said , the greases biggest use is to hold and lube the bearings and to stop the dreaded judder

as for his mod , it is something he has tested him self , if he wasnt happy it was any good he wouldnt have bothered letting it out :)

by the way i in no way work for gwyn just very happy with his products and service

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Rebuilding your 8274 brake asembly with grease serves these purposes in my opinion

Puting grease around where the 21 balls sit in help hold them in when reassembly

the same for the linings smearing some grease on them helps hold them in place

and stops everything falling on the floor

When reassembled you should try it out

You should get less brake chatter and vibration

which is a great help when lowering out

and your centre brake disc runs smother when not under load

The grease also stops the linings sticking to the metal discs and rusting together

after being stood for sometime

When i used to compete i used to oil my linings before and after an event to keep

on top of this problem

I thinck if you filled your brake housing full of grease it might cause pore braking

intill its flung out

the brake aficiancy of the 8274 is quite good because the brake shaft turns

a lot faster than the drum which meansless braking force needed

The brake linings i sell are grease and oil compatible and are made out

of a more flexible meterial

I also recomend fastening in the circlip to stop it spreading owpen

and poping of

once you have disturbed the circlip they do like to pop of and thats not nice

hope this will answer youe questions

gwyn

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I forgot to mention there are 2 types of circlip sises

the older 8274 use a larger circlip 1 nich shaft size

the newer 8274 uses a slightly smaller circlip 25 mm shaft sise whith the 3 bellvue

washers

if you use the older (larger) circlip on the newer shaft it will definetly pop off

some people selling the parts do get these mixed up

gwyn

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Nick, can you not ask Gwyn why ?

James, did you do his mod with the three bolts on the disc ? I'm curious to find out how people get on with this mod.

Cheers

Mo

Mo, I have spoken to Gwyn today and know why but am just interested in people's views, Will report back to you in a couple of weeks on the three bolt mod to hold the circlip on as am fitting this week.

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I've fitted Gwyn's uprated pads and applied some grease to them when fitting, although I think maybe not enough as I'm still suffering with then sticking to the metal discs when not used for a while.

I also done the three bolt mod and have not had a problem with the circlip popping off.

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I have had loads of problems with the circlip coming off on the 8074, so thought I would give the 3 bolt modification a try (very similar brake mechanism). Sadly, I haven't had a chance to use it since I did the mod, but I will report back on the results....

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If you fit the circlip the correct way..... :P

You should not have any problems, the correct way is with the rounded edges facing the brake.

As for greasing your brake.........

You'll find that the Welsh are well ahead of us when it comes to lubricating anything........

Something about no foreplay..... :lol::lol::lol:

Hiya Gywn, Nice to see you on here :D

Speak soon

Jim :)

Ps: The Twinmotors are coming......

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cir clip flying off agreed not nice and time consuming looking for lost bits in the dirt

I greased the pads

but I fitted the Main shaft from Jim

Image003.jpg

http://www.gigglepin4x4.net/8274/mainshaft.htm

this singularly made the winch quieter in operation and gave me more confidence in it being lowered out over long drops etc etc.

The circlip is so 20th century to quote Jonny boy

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Gwyn, is there a specific oil tou reccomend? I was thinking about using a marine grease with mine as the brakes aren't exactly waterproof ;)

Re oil filled brakes, I'm told at fully sealed systems are quite common in agricultural and industrial machinery and I assume they're oil filled. Also look at an auto 'box, they use oiled clutch packs.

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Will, your missing the point,

Any lubrication is considered better than none.

Any oil or grease for that matter will suffice, However i'm sure if you want to get into it that some work better than others........

That is until you add a bit of peatbog, some sand, large quanities of water and some clay......

And pretty much anything else you drive through :lol:

Jim :)

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Will, your missing the point,

Any lubrication is considered better than none.

Any oil or grease for that matter will suffice, However i'm sure if you want to get into it that some work better than others........

That is until you add a bit of peatbog, some sand, large quanities of water and some clay......

And pretty much anything else you drive through :lol:

Jim :)

Good point :)

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Will

The grease i use is morris K48, the same grease we supply whith our propshafts and the same

as you should be using whith h/duty c/vs and wheel bearings

It is a molybdenum disulphide product whitch means when all the grease looks to have

flung out you still have some lubricant left, when you get it on your hands you will see what i mean

you wont know what youve mised intill you have tried it

you can check it out www.morrislubricants.co.uk search for k48

gwyn

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Thanks Gwyn for explaining.

does the grease come in tubes for a grease gun?

if so what sort of ££ are they please.

Tony,

Yes, it is widely available in grease gun refill type tubes………….For years I have used nothing but moly grease in all components ………… like Glyn was implying, it sticks like sh1te to a blanket and even after you have wiped it off it leaves a film of lubricant. If used to be more than twice the price of general lithioum grease but these days its probably only 10 or 20% more expensive, but IMHO worth every penny.

For years the Race Car grease monkeys always used to refer to it as ‘Black Magic’ :D

I normally buy either Comma, or Shell Moly CV grease in 1 Kilo tubs as both my 8K psi Tecalimet grease guns are manual fill. ………….

Partco, AutoQuip, Kevin Cooper, ALS etc…… will all stock them.

Now............ if you had a hydraulic winch the brake and all its complexity is not required as we get no run on or winch creep :ph34r::P:ph34r:

Ian

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