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DLR1982

Shake, Rattle and Sound deadening

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I find myself screaming to my wife....every time we drive our Series III (1982) with a 200tdi conversion.

It's very loud and I'm currently sorting out the mess of electrics so I ripped out whatever attempt previous owner did to deaden the sound (spray glued bubble wrap basically). The result even more engine and road noise. In a few weeks (it's still freezing here) I wanna do a propper sound deadening job (hood, roof, doors, firewall, seats the lot) and I was wondering what brand/type of product to use. Oh and there is a budget restrictio. I've done a ton of research and found people dropping buck on dynamat, hushmat etc down to home depot housewrap tape. I've e-bayed read reviews on Amazon etc. As we all know a mold resistant product would be to prefer since no matter what I do I find small patches of water here and there. The idea for the roof is to insulate and then cover with marine carpet. Any leads, hints, clues would be much appreciated. I just did my rear door and will post some pics of that since it turned out alright.

Thanks in advance

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Noise killer products... my father in law did out his Td5 90 (rattily van) with pretty much every kit you can get from them, (my eyes where watering at the cost - but he swore it was the way to go)... I on the other hand pursued the cheaper foams and products...

My 90 being a 200tdi its that bit noisier anyway than a Td5 but I was genuinely surprised at the difference it has made to his truck... to the point that I rather unfortunately had to admit defeat to him that he was actually quite wise... so now I'm saving fastidiously so I can start kitting my truck out with there stuff...

For example:

http://www.nkgroup.co.uk/product/land-rover-roof-section-using-25mm-egg-box/

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The best thing to reduce noise is heavy carpet over the seat base, cab floor and lower bulkhead. If you fasten it with poppers, it'd be easily removable for drying/cleaning. The open nature and high surface area combined with softness will do more to absorb sound than any other individual product on the market. Automotive or marine carpet will do nothing to help.

I have Wright Off Road matting in my 109 and it works well and is practical. It doesn't prevent water pooling in the foot wells from small leaks, though, and is less effective than a heavy carpet would be. Its main weakness is the comparative thinness of the bulkhead and seat base sections. Adding closed cell foam like Dynamat under the seat base would help a bit, but I lined the whole of my engine bay with Noise Killer mat and it made no appreciable difference over that the WOR cab matting had already done.

Noise Killer or Dynamat is very effective when applied to the sides of the hard top or door panels, though - it's amazing how much low frequency drumming they stop from those points.

I used a LaSalle headlining with camping roll mat between it and the roof panels for insulation and noise reduction, and it works very well indeed - lightweight and waterproof, it was easy to apply and doesn't hold condensation.

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I've not tackled a LR, but kitted out a very tinny Subaru with closed cell foam / sound deadening / insulation etc from these guys:

http://www.carinsulation.co.uk/

It was considerably cheaper than dynamat / Noisekiller etc, but required quite a lot of work on my part as nothing was pre-shaped. It did make a difference overall, but not massive - main improvement was that everything felt way more solid - doors shut with a 'high quality' thunk!

One thing to bear in mind - stuff like noisekiller, dynamat etc doesn't really block noise that much, it stops panels resonating by adding mass, which stops them drumming, which I think in a LR would help cut down low frequency rumbles. To block higher frequencies you need closed cell foam / stuff that looks like the inside of a duvet to 'trap' the noise. To do a really good job you need both, which can be problematic (especially when the inside of LR's tend to be damp!

If you look at how the wright off road kit is made, it's a heavy outer skin with foam underneath to do both high and low...

I've still got a load left over from doing the scooby, I'll do the inside of the 110 at some point as well...

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Open cell foam is more effective than closed cell. The reason that Noise Killer (and some others) use closed cell foam is that open cell is as absorbent to moisture as it is noise. Closed cell is markedly less effective, but it doesn't absorb and hold water.

The best sound absorbtion will be in a material with high surface area and soft structure with plenty of mass. Hence my comment about heavy domestic carpet.

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The guy I sold my S3 diesel LWB truck cab to asked me to trim it and reduce the noise. I warned him that I had little experience in the subject but would have a go at something simple. I got Exmoor's hardura kit and with a not inconsiderable amount of fiddling got the footwells, bulkhead, gearbox and seatbox front and sides trimmed. With a pair of acoustic mats (Foam with a chequer-plate type rubber top) both he and I were surprised at the difference. I should add that the previous owner had fitted foam to the truck cab roof.

Modern hardura seems to differ from that originally used by Land Rover in that the backing is raw Jute rather than blackened jute impregnated with something. Its also a bit thicker. The open back may help it absorb sound.

If I were to do another one I wouldn't bother to buy the kit - just Hardura cut from the roll. The pre-cut kit didn't fit well - and I had a bag of trimmings by the time I'd finished. I'd make a set of templates from cardboard and cut from them.

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Fit a high ratio tranny box or Range Rover diffs it help stops the engine screaming at higher speeds, you will never get rid of the noise if its a 200tdi with a std gear box / tranny box and or diffs.

My last s2a swb i converted to 200tdi was fitted with an Ashcroft high ratio tranny box and it was virtually as quiet as it was when it was still a 2.25p but reckon if i had fitted R/R diffs it would have been quieter still, sound deadening stuff will help but not enough as the problem will be in the gearing

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Diff swaps are the cheap way of reducing rpm, but it makes driving horrible - overgeared at junctions and town driving in mid rpm 3rd gear rather than low revs 4th means it doesn't work in practice, increasing fuel consumption and noise, making junctions unpleasant and eventually killing your gear box. It also bggers off road ability.

High ratio transfer box does the same, but without the ruining of low range and without needing to recalibrate the speedo.

Overdrive sorts all the problems without any negatives (other than purchase price), and gives an optional rather than fixed gearing increase, giving you eight forward gears and two reverse. Best only used in 3rd and 4th, though, for practicality as well as avoiding gear box stress.

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I'm in the process of fitting Silentcoat.

I'm using the 2mm butyl pads wherever I can, the carpet over that where practical.

I also have a heavy rubber mat on the load area.

This is on a 110 CSW.

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I'm with Snagger on this, in addition to my D2 I have an XJ6 and it's silent to all intents inside. I admit the Jaguar straight 6 beats any other contemporary engine anyway but heavy, luxury, carpet knocks out everything else including tyre noise. My only consideration would be that carpet soaks up water and that's never a good idea. I did line my Series 200 di (carp, leave the turbo on!) With closed cell foam and 1/4" inch ply on top and it helps a lot although that was the entire vehicle so neither easy or cheap; certainly not as good as heavy carpet I'd imagine

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