Freelander Drivetrain & Buying Advice

[Chris_H]

I am looking at changing my 1999 Defender 90 CSW for a Freelander 1 ES TD4 (£2700) with 80K miles. As we are getting older the Def. is getting uncomfortable on long journey's.
I have a couple of questions about the Freelander Drivetrain after reading articles on various forums.
1. Before buying. Test drive it and reverse on hard lock and see if it hops. if it does there could be a problem with either the Viscous Coupling Unit (VCU) or Intermediate Reduction Drive (IAD).
2. If there has been a problem & the VCU has been changed recently; how do you know whether there is a problem with the IAD?
3. Does differing tyres that at the same size, really make that difference. If that is the case do you have to change all the 4 tyres at the same time?
4. Sorry for this silly question. A lot of people seem to disconnect the propshaft. Surely if you do that, the diff would see there is no load, and transfer all the power to the missing shaft. Which one do they normally remove. Obviously I will see if one is missing?
5. Do all vehicles with Viscous diffs suffer from these problems?
6. Does the Hill Descent system just lock the transmission in 1st gear or is there an extra gear for it?

Test all switches/windows etc.?
The interior is leather and looks in good condition. The headlining is dropping at the back. Is being replaced before purchase.
Sunroof sealed shut. Thank goodness.

Is there anything else I should be looking at?
Do you think a Freelander is a good idea. The Defender unfortunately has to go.

Any advice welcomed & Thanks in Anticipation
Chris

[FridgeFreezer]

A read back through the forum should answer most things, suggest having a read & coming back with anything not covered in old posts:

There have been one or two "buying advice" threads before...

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=88583

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=88183

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=81802

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=81732

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=76188

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=81840

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=82207

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=72906

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=71925

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=64750

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=64739

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=63050

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=59983

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=58780

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=51464

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=49332

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=46557

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=52691

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=42563

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=40997

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=35784

Probably a similar number discussing propshafts / IRD's (search button left as an exercise for the reader), the RAVE manual download in the technical archive will explain how everything works. Mind you, the users manual (in glove box & also in the RAVE manual I believe) explains the ABS/HDC system.

[tacr2man]

If its done 80k then VCU is probably due for a change , and worth doing as its not a bad job and about £400 , a lot cheaper than leaving it and then having to replace the IRd and possibly the rear diff.

Ref tyres the least worn need to be on the back , and better if you can fit 4 but fitting new to back is best if only a pair .

taking the prop off gives you slightly more mpg , i take the one off two of mine , my sisters I put back on in winter , and the one I use , I just take the 90 or 110 instead if looks like snow in any quantity .

Yes pretty much all viscous diffs are life limited , even in other makes as well.

What year is the freelander? I only run the TD4 autos .

If you dont do a lot of miles , so mpg not so important , then Honda CRV auto are worth a look at , usually cheaper for a given year. Not such a good ride , roomier, boringly reliable , no viscous coupling use a dual pump diff instead (clever and reliable)

Would make a good mod for a freelander , but dont know what the ratio is !!

Td4 engine is very good does lots of miles, the petrol versions not a good choice .

sunroofs are usually just poor maintenance , window lifts are OK one minute , and gone the next.

JMHE

[tim_roberts]

It's worth mentioning that removing the prop (by which I mean the entire thing including the VCU and both halves of the prop) simply means it's a front-wheel drive car. Your ABS and traction control work as normal and apart from no drive to the rear wheels everything is the same.

The signs of a failing IRD (usually caused by a failing VCU) are a rumbling or droning at speed, which goes away when you remove the prop. This is bcause the IRD bearings fail at the output flange, and when the prop is removed there's no load on the flange and hence no noise. You can buy a set of bearings and seals for the IRD quite cheaply and overhaul it yourself, but if any of the gears are damaged it's probably worth getting a completely rebuilt unit from Bell Engineering.

[Chris_H]

Thank you for your replies. The FL is 2001 5 door. I just that i like that clunky 2nd gear lever on the Defender, there is a light on the dash as well. This it will usd it when required is all new to me. I will definately miss the Defender if it goes, but i'm quite looking forward to comfort. I dk abouf 12k miles a year.

Once again thank you for your time in posting.

Chris

P.s. i will let you know how i get on next week.