jimyd

Sounds like you have experimented a bit then! It could be that the angle of the nozzle of the pump gun directs the fuel flow directly at the step internally created by the tee and is enough to trip it. It sounds like a 45 with a stepped in box would be the way to go.

Is the pipe coming in on the tee from the top of the tank or just a separate breather? You need the air to come out of the tank as fast as you fill it with fuel, so a pipe from the top of the tank to as near the filler neck is required. If you fill the tank quickly the fuel into the first bend could be blocking of the airflow back out of the tank ( if that's what your pipe is connected to) Ideally the tank breather pipe needs to be above where the end of the pump nozzle fits into. Otherwise the tank fills untill the air in the tank pressurises untill a point at which it will blow back! Is this the sysmptom?

Thanks for the reply. As you said it looks easy enough, time to get the tape measure out me thinks. Just seemed an easy way to get a short box on the back of a 300 and wondered if anybody had done it already!

Hi. I have a trialer with a na 2.8 diahatsu engine and f50 gearbox. The engine and box combo is quite short and works well with the 80" wheelbase. I am finding it a bit underpowered and as I have a 300 TDI engine I wondered about the possibility of mating it to the f50 gearboxto the 300 TDI to keep the engine / gearbox length down. I know diahatsu to series was a common conversion back in the day, but has anybody done it land rover engine to diahatsu gearbox? Thanks James

I'm no expert on propshafts, but my limited understanding is that the reason the yoaks need to be in line is to cancel the speed change in the joints as the shaft goes round. I understand there is a calculation for working out propshafts phase to flange alignment, but never really looked into it! The fact the sliding joint is at the diff end should make no difference as to vibration, just that dirt is more likely to get in. If you need to phase the shaft as the picture looks then I would recommend sorting the clearance issue and re aligning the joints.

Great info guys. I got a mega board and starter book a while back, but other projects took over. This project has given me the incentive to have another play. All I need to do now is find it!

We have used this company for plant machinery lubrication systems before. They have quite a range in the catalogue. www.lubetec.co.uk

We use a company couple of companies at work that do these type of systems, mainly for tractors though. Worth a look. I dont have any connection with them but have had good service and advice from both! http://www.erentek.co.uk/erentek-prod.htm http://www.airbrakesystems.co.uk

I'm watching this with interest. I purchased a Mega board and started reading, but not got much further yet. The inspiration for this was seeing the ECU controller done for the Bosch PWM fuel pumps, with the dream of fitting an om606 into the 90! My first project planned was to build a hydraulic pressure tester / data logger. The first issue was that the Mega has a 0 to 5v input and most transducers operate with a 4 to 20 mA output. I have seen several circuits using resistors to convert the mA signal to voltage, but realise there are issues if the sensor becomes disconnected, causing over voltage on the input. Do any of you programming adults know of a shield for the mega? Sorry discomikey I don't mean to hijack your thread! What project do you have in mind Mikey?

Not quite sure how they get away with it, but take a look on ebay, delivered straight to your door for not much money!!

Not used these exact terminals, but use quite a lot of Wago parts at work. They are very good, never really get a problem with them, although always used in an enclosure. For vehicle wiring though you ideally need boot lace ferules on the cable ends first.

What you are after is classed as a LOLER certificate (Lifting operations and equipment regulation) It all depends on the risks involved. For example an engine crane you could say should need one also. Another example is a wheeled excavator crane and a scrap handler, both very similar, but an excavator crane needs to be inspected for loler, but a scrap handler does not because the risk of it dropping something is not of high risk! For some items it is very black and white, others somewhat debatable! A vehicle ramp is something you should have a cert for. As for who can issue a certificate, this is yet another sketchy area. The regulation states something like " the examination should be carried out by a competent person" But who is competent and who is not?

Nice Mod. I have purchased carling switches from these before, they have quite a range. http://www.dun-bri.com/carling_switch_range/carling_contura_switch_bases/12v_carling_contura_switch_base/

We have been having the 27watt work lights from China for just over 12 months now at work and fitting them to excavators. We have managed to get them down to just over £12 each. Never had 1 not work and the only issue is with 1 light in well over 200 that filled with water due to the cable entry gland not been sealed properly. But at £12 not really a concern!

Take a look at this site, I think you will find the m90 is a possible unit and fitted to some well know digger transmission brakes! http://www.hayesbrake.com/markets/agconstruction/products/?tab=2

Are you sure of the reason for the expansion tank exploding? Its probably worth checking / replacing the cap and doing a few checks for head gasket failure, hopefully its just an old duff tank, but would hate for you to put a new one on and for the same thing happen.

I got a 3t garage style torx trolley jack from B&Q of all places! They sometimes have an offer on and mine was only £40. One problem is i wish i had got 2! Personally i find the smaller 2 t trolley jacks ok for occasional work, but as the majority of the time you are at the top end of its lift, i do consider them o be one there limit for a landrover.

Did you drop the engine oil, flush and fit new oil? Sound to me like you have water in the sump, which has probably by now done lots of damage!

Sorry, thats nomaly my luck!!! Thay do some good stuff and the service is not bad either, although i have not tried to send anything back yet! OT, but was it you that has put Nissan axles under your truck? I have a set that i have been fitting for way longer than i should cos of that anyoying think called work! If so do you mind if I drop you a PM about it?

We use a company called dun bri at work. http://www.dun-bri.com/3338490-switches-dash-lights/21609903-carling-contura-ii-complete-switches/page_1

If you are still getting water through after you have done all the above, then i would guess you still have water in the tank. You could try cleaning everything again, but put the pump in bucket of known good diesel before trying again. Td5's can be a pain to get running after running out of diesel, i spent a whole afternoon once trying to bleed one without sucsess, then towed it and it fired up withing a few yards!!!! On an auto once i had to used easy start, to coax the engine to run for a second or to before it got the diesel, but be VERY CAREFULL, it can cause damage if you use to much, im not a fan of it normally, but sometimes needs must!!!! Good luck with it.

Try a hydraulics place, we use these all the time at work. A Well know name in the hydraulics field for these types hose of clamps is "Stauff clamps". If you google them in the images search you should find lots. They do light duty, medium and single, in lots of different sizes, singles doubles etc. The usually come as a kit comprising of bottom weld on plate, plastic insert, top plate and bolts!

I seem to remember seeing someone once with a home made tool that fitted over the shoe to aid removal and refitment. I can only decribe it as i have no pics, it was made out of a bit of flat steel, say 40 x 5 mm, it had a slot cut in the end with a grinder, and had then been folded back on its self, this allowed the slot to fit each side of the part of the shoe that sits into the cylinder or bottom adjuster part and sit under the curved part of the shoe(under the lining), the bit folded over then sitting on the lining side following the curve of the shoe. Welded to this at 90' was then a bit of round bar to use as a lever. It looked very simple to make and was very effective, keeping your fingers well out of the way. If i get five i will make one for myself and take pics, as its probably easier than trying to describe it.

Which way have you been trying to undo it? I have never removed the brass tap from a propane bottle, but most fuel gas fittings are left hand thread! You have probably checked this, but its supprising how many peope don't.

I will be down that way next week so will try and sneak a trip along this lane. I thought most of Sarn helen had been closed for years!