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TSD last won the day on April 2

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About TSD

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  1. Coincidentally, I went on the internet and I found this
  2. The UJs on my Gwynn Lewis prop lasted less than a year, before one failed and I changed both. Then again Fridgefreezer had been using the truck for a week, so all bets are off Reb78, did you happen to make a note of the GKN part number supplied?? I suspect UJs are just another demonstration of why OEM is not the same as Gen Parts. Just because it's made by the same manufacturer, doesn't mean it's the same part made to the same spec for the same application. A bit of speculation based on reading an old GKN catalogue.... (GKN_Universal_Joints.pdf) I don't recall if it's the large or small UJ, but for one of them I'm sure I've previously been supplied GKN U110. Check the GKN catalogue and while the dimensions look correct, it isn't the only part which might suit. U117 is list as 'Land Rover special axle' (but has no grease point). U110 is classed as 'Automotive Standard', but U967 has the same listed dimensions but is classed as 'Premium design for high performance / long life'. Of course, not all applications are the same, so the 'long life' part might not be the best choice for a Land Rover, an 'automotive' or even 'agricultural' might be better, either generally, or for a specific vehicle/use. Also, it's very possible the 'Gen Parts' design from GKN is not even from the standard range, but modified from that. There isn't any detail on size/number of rollers, or seal or lubrication details, and even if there was I think it would be hard to guess which would be the best choice without checking all the likely parts, and then trying any that fit.
  3. If you've never had a gearbox oil change done, I'd do that before the additive. My D3 started with the TC shimmy about 40k ago. Gearbox oil change and a tube of Dr T sorted it for 25k or so. Another oil change and another tube, and it hasn't recurred yet. The old oil was black and very thin, both times. Oil change done through the cooler pipework with a garden sprayer bottle - really easy. Genuine gearbox oil is really spendy, but there are cheaper aftermarket versions. edit : Forgot to say, if it's a TC problem, you'll usually see the rev counter fluctuating a few 100 rpm when cruising around 70mph.
  4. I think my exact response was 'You'll have to buy it, so I don't have to... and you'll end up painting it anyway' Me win
  5. OK hands up, 'twas I. And it really isn't all Mikes fault, probably only 75%. The other 75% is fridges fault, and any left over is just down to poor impulse control on my part. Not sure a build thread will be that interesting, I spent the whole day in the workshop, mostly standing looking from various angles and muttering 'WTF have I done?'. First job is to clear enough space in the shed to work on it (Anyone interested in a q plate 88" hybrid rolling chassis before I throw it out into the rain?)
  6. Just in case it's useful... http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/images/source/CV_joint_rework.pdf I've got a pair of early Ashcroft HD joints that I keep meaning to rework at some point. They were very tight - difficult to move by hand - but I couldn't spot a problem when they were on the vehicle.
  7. Didn't you ever watch 'Wargames' Dave? The only way to win is not to play!
  8. Firebex is an awesome truck, but if the extra length doesn't do it for you, you could go wider instead... Wallys Ibex camper is another fantastic build. The cab is wider than a standard Ibex (compare the rear of the front wheelarches), then it gets wider again for the loadbay! The rear axle is a Salisbury, with a 'long side' tube fitted on both sides IIRC. Image shamelessly stolen from http://www.ibexcamper.com/
  9. But my go-to guy for painting is quite busy these days and I dont think I could get much done until it was painted. He's probably on a terrorist watch list and not allowed to buy paint anymore either And I'd have to sell a truck to make spannering room. Excuses? I got loads of them, they dont take up much space. (Damn, my 666th post! Could it be an omen?!)
  10. As Fridge pointed out earlier today, due to some recent vehicle movements, I now have a space in my garage exactly the right size
  11. I got bored replacing the bed of my beavertail every 5 years when it rotted out, and even more bored of having vehicles drop through it. Since it's almost always used for shift Landies, I got four 2m lengths of deck from the bay of e, and a few metres of angle, and spent an afternoon with the welder... Cant remember the exact cost, but was about double the cost of covering the whole bed in b&q 18mm ply sponge. £200? Maybe £250. Worth every penny, and more grippy than chequerplate when wet.
  12. Not sure of the exact mechanism, but oil in the loom is really an issue. I only remember it because I didn't believe it until I saw it. <looks around> this post might help?
  13. My bet would be it's taken out the fuse or more likely the relay(s) you used. These things are great for sorting truth from bsht in manufacturers ratings Must admit I haven't used mine in a while since I don't drive the bex everyday. I've got a blower that miketomcat gave me some time back, plastic fan in a plastic snail housing that produces a fair gale. Think it was from a Suzuki IIRC, mike might remember.
  14. A post I found on a civic forum seems to suggest that 4 of the wires are grounded. (Not sure though, I haven't registered so cant see the pics) It wouldn't be too surprising, these things draw a lot of current so more ground wires is always good. I wonder if it might be used by an ECU to check how much current the heater is drawing, using the ground wiring as a simple current shunt. I'd probably think of doing that if I were designing it from scratch. If it's that, you can safely ignore it. (It will be commoned with one of the heater ground wires if so.) If you've got a meter than can measure low ohms, it should be pretty easy to figure whats what.
  15. All the installs I've seen had either the International sump (not sure if it's modified or not) or a 300tdi sump with modified oil pickup. Most of those have gone bang by now, so likely it's the International part It has a very deep oil pan behind the axle, and the drain plug is on the side of a rear corner. I don't know if the South American Ford Ranger used a different sump, never seen one, but the 2.5 version uses the same sump as the 2.8, so I suspect not.