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Batteries & Cold Starting


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Well it appears to be snowing here in Stafford for some obscene reason, and so this has prompted me to ask about something that's been bugging me about my Defender.

When it's cold in the morning, it seems very reluctant to turn over and does so very slowly before just about kicking in. Once it's running it runs fine, if not a little lumpy to start with (but I assume this is just a trait of a 16-year-old diesel engine in the cold), after a few minutes it is smooth as ever. My immediate thought of course was the battery, as I know they don't work as well when cold, and mine is only a cheap Halfords one. Not even a 'heavy duty' Halfords one at that.

I got the multimeter out and found that before I turned anything on the battery was reading 12.1V. I'm no expert, but I thought batteries were supposed to read around 12.5-12.6V when fully charged? Or is it just because it is cold?

At ignition stage two it dropped to 11V or so. Once the engine was running the alternator built it up to around 13.5V on tickover and 14.2V at normal driving speeds. As far as I know this is fine in terms of alternator output voltages.

Then, once I'd had a drive around in the snow (and puddles :D) and the engine was up to temperature, I switched it off and watched the voltage fall back down as normal. It then started on the first turn of the key.

So this makes me think that it is one of two possibilities:

1. The battery doesn't have a good enough C.C.A rating and is copping out when cold, being warmed by the charging process, and then working fine on second start.

OR

2. The battery is actually okay in terms of C.C.A. but is being discharged for some reason, however I feel this is less likely due to the fact that it's only started doing this as it's got colder. We've yet to have a day warm enough for me to try and start it and observe it's behaviour.

Any ideas guys?

Many thanks

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Heh, well before I had a dry enough day to want to be crawling around on the floor under the truck...it's completely let me down today. Didn't have enough charge to turn her over and fire up :(

So tomorrow I guess I'm off to the battery shop, there's a battery specialist reasonably nearby...am I right in assuming I should just get the biggest (in terms of CCA and capacity) I can fit in?

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Sounds like the battery to me.

When your engines cold, most the oil has dripped to the sump & left all the moving parts generally not so well lubed. Additionally the viscosity of the oil means that its in a thicker state when its cold increasing friction & the additional draw on your battery when you turn the engine over. Once youve managed to start the engine everything ok again till the next morning when you go thru the same process.

Get the specific gravities checked on the battery. Hydrometers dont cost much & they allow you to check each cell is in a comparitive state. You may find the levels are low even. The plates should be covered but not overfilled.

I work on big engines on the trains, & weve got a saying, "give it time ,let it prime". A well primed engine will always start over an engine which has not had oil pumped around it properly. hence why it always starts once it has fired up.

Hope this helps

Adrian

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You can check the charging system with a £5 multimeter, anything that read volts really. You should be seeing between 13.4 and 14.4 volts on the battery when the engine is running (alternators vary, some are 13.4, 13.8 or 14.4). If you have good voltage at the alternator but not at the battery, suspect the cable between the two, or the earth strap which would also cause poor starting.

Most decent battery places (EG not Halfords / Kwik Fit) will have a battery drop tester which will tell you if yours is knackered or not, I'd very much expect them to do it for free at the prospect of flogging you a new one.

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Checked the earth straps today, and all seems to be well. They're all in good condition, and there is good continuity between the battery negative post and anywhere on the truck's body. I got 13.5V - 14.2V from the alternator when it was running the other day, measured at the battery terminals, so I think that's okay.

I will jump if off another vehicle, and then drive to the auto-electrical place in Tamworth and get them to test my battery for me.

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Good batteries will have a live of 5 to 7 years if well maintained. This means that the acid level never dropped below minimum and they haven't been dicharged by more then 50% of their capacity. Discharge of more then 50 % or even more ("batterie empty") will destroy any lead/acid battery fast. My experience is that the battery is gone after approx 5-7 times full discharge. Gel batteries (eg optima) perform better and they are not that sensitive for complete discharge. (However, they are expensive)

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The same thing happened to my battery in the beginning of the week, I knew it was a little old & weary but couldn't be bothered to change it for the good one I had in the garage as I was in a hurry. Drove to my destination & stayed over, the next morning it nearly let me down, only just started.

I won't make that mistake again........... :o

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That's very bling but it's a lot of money for not much capacity - unless you're winching with an electric winch you don't need deep-cycle capability. I bought a Vartra silver battery that's 110Ah (twice the one you posted) for around £110 from my local battery place.

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Well this is the battery I've ended up with:

new_battery.jpg

It's a Trane T16, capacity of 95 Ah and a CCA rating of 680A (EN). Cost me £115 including VAT, which is much better value than the Halfords ones...which are £100 odd for something nowhere near as big capacity-wise.

Hopefully it should do the job a lot better than the previous one (which is now going to serve as an airsoft-gun-battery-charger :D), it's got a good healthy 12.7 volts on it now, but the real test will be tomorrow morning when I go to start it at ten-to-eight.

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It did indeed. Didn't bat an eyelid, wasn't as cold this morning as it has been though. Typical that we get a warmer spell now ¬_¬

It also held up today being while started, driven a mile or two, stopped for 30 mins, re-started, repeat etc all over an Army Training Area for an airsoft game without any problems :D

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It's the CCA that matters, not really Ah in this case. CCA is the power you get for a short while and that turns your starter a cold morning. An engine in good health should start almost immediately. Ah is a measure of how long time you can empty the battery like if you have an engine that is reluctaant to start and you need to engage the starter for a long time.

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Well this is the battery I've ended up with:

new_battery.jpg

(...)

Please make sure you get that battery secured properly.

Batteries are very sensitive to short-circuting.... If you are lucky the battery just dies, if you are unlucky you die with the battery!

Ever seen the fireball produced when you accidentially touches both terminals on a battery with a spanner?

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