Anderzander

Its your lift that's causing it. If you've got a 2" lift put a 2" spacer under your ARB chassis mounts and you'll return all your geometry to normal

I've not had the same problem - but I've used Pete from Bell Auto Services just outside York and he's a bit of a specialist in Land Rover ECU's. Google him and give him a ring.

It would be nice if the hydraulics could drive the wheels too.

Kevin, where in the UK? If I was in your situation I'd take it to either IRB, in the midlands, or BAS in York. Both are ECU experts.

What's the best way to get down to the Pyrenees ? I notice you can get a 24hr ferry from Portsmouth to Santander. I'm wondering if thats an easier journey than taking the tunnel and driving down through France.

Some good ideas folks - thank you. I quite like that little locking strap.... though a bowline and tape also sounds a good idea.

Rambo, other than telling us that you and your Dad are ace..... You've not really revealed the family crimping secrets.....

I have just removed the plasma rope from my winch and it wasn't crimped and bolted to the drum - is that how everyone has them? I've not had a plasma rope before so I'm not even sure how you'd crimp it, though I'm sure I've seen them with a crimp on.

Might be worth printing it out in case his site went ever went down. It looks like a fantastic guide.

Just sounds like your solenoid and clutch has seized... A quick google has produced this : Warn xd9000i Winch Rebuild

To complete this thread ..... Here are 3 Carling switches fitted into the standard centre panel.

If you stare into the cup you can make out the 4 spot welds you need to drill out ...

When I did mine I did one side at a time. I jacked the back up pretty high with a bottle jack under the axle. Then I put axle stands under the chassis so I could lower the axle away from it, that made it nice and easy to get the springs out and gave plenty of room to get into the wheel arch to remove the shock and bush cups etc. If you end up taking everything off at once bar the a frame ball joint, as per your sequence above, it might be a pain to get it all back into line. So I'd be tempted to either try the trailing arms while the shocks are still on - or swap them when the new shocks are on. As I mentioned before, the bush cups were a bugger to get off on mine - so I'd give yourself a bit of time to find the spot welds and get them off.

Incredible! I've been really wanting to head into Europe with the 90 and had no idea there were resources like this! If anyone is aware of any more, say for the Alps or anywhere in France that might serve as a good first trip I'd be hugely grateful if you'd share them. To quote my teenage niece - ' Well Good!'

There are some real experts on this forum and I'm not one of them - with that caveat! Hydraulic pros: is very powerful and will pull all day long Hydraulic cons: Very difficult to drive assist, needs to have a pto to be quick, needs the engine running to work, expensive and complex Electric pros: Doesn't need the engine running, relatively simple to set up Electric cons: Won't pull all day, more expensive that it first seems to get a decent setup, not the same power potential as hydraulic

Switches are done !! :-) The new switches arrived from croytec - and this time they are the right way up. - It'll make using them easier from the drivers seat and mean I'm not looking down the top of it too. I had already marked out the necessary cut outs on the panel, so tonight I masked them out and then took the dremel to it. I basically just cut a slot on each of the four sides of each cut out, then slid in a hacksaw blade and cut the corners to release the cut out. Then it was just cleaning it up with a file and a sharp knife. I'm very pleased with how they've gone in - looks neat and tidy and factory looking. I've put the on / off next to the wash wipe switch - as when the pto is engaged I might have it in 2nd, 3rd or 4th gear; so having both off / momentary on switches for in and out on the left means they are easy to switch. Still a fair bit to go to finish fitting the winch, but its another step closer!

I plan to go to this. I'll be driving over from Lancashire, down the A59 through Skipton and York. I'd be happy to meet people either on the way or there.

Ryan, They would be perfect :-). Stuck is being too generous as he's just fitted a winch himself and am sure will find them useful I'll pm you to arrange to send you a sae and something for them.

Check the resistance is even along the full stroke too.

Excellent info Now I just need to think of a use for a switch there. It always cried out for me to put a switch in there.....

Nigel - I think that was for the choke on the petrol engined models.

Does anyone know what the blank under the dash shroud was used for ? Here's one with a switch fitted: I read somewhere that the V8's had a switch there, can anyone confirm that?

Some good ideas! I think I will look into the vent / heating idea - something to put a bit of time into. I had considered at a future point seeing if I could fit a diesel powered heater in place of the standard one, under the bonnet, and have it blow through the existing vents. Perhaps there is scope for modifying them as per Retro's idea. I have a bulkhead liner - so pretty good for sound deadening at the moment. What am I looking for on the windscreen wiper spindles? I keep trying to think of what electrics I might want later on and put some wiring in for it. Seem to be drawing a blank at the moment though - I think I've got some sort of analysis paralysis.

I sent you a couple of emails Mick - did you get those? Ralph - I used Jif and then wiped it all down with surgical spirit! - bit expensive but gets it as clean as it can be. I'm attaching the 1999 wiring diagram to this thread - so if anyone searches for the same problem in the future they'll get a complete picture .... electrical schemes - defender td5 (1999).pdf