Anderzander

Have you checked your A frame ball joint? Are all the new bushes seated / tightened ok?

No

I'd remove the EGR from the manifold and fit the blanking plate. Remove and seal the vaccum pipe. Buy an intercooler pipe without the EGR fittings - they have them on eBay, with the blanking plate, for about £15 My set up is different - my defender is a td5 and my series has a 200tdi with a 300 turbo and no vacuum. But removing the lot will help the airflow and look a lot neater.

Thierry - this is from an older post: There are basically two bits to blank off, the EGR valve on the exhaust manifold and the pipe where it feeds in to the intake just before the inlet manifold. The best (neatest) solution to the latter part is to buy a non EGR top intercooler hose but the other way is to crimp the little intake pipe flat in a vice, fold it over and solder it or braze it shut (you probably don't even have to do this last bit a crimp may well be fine). As for the valve - well you can either take it off completely (2 screws - sometimes Allen headed ones - which will usually put up a fight) and fit the blanking plate as fitted to non EGR vehicles.

That is amazing! lol

Glad you've found yours - I'm in dim dip land too..... Though I've no lights at all except for the flash, which is on a different circuit. I hope its ok to post it here too - it might improve the scope and usefulness of the thread for people with similar problems. If its a bad idea, perhaps a moderator could split this off ? My lights intermittently stopped working - and the multimeter showing nothing at the brown wire - so I have a small problem somewhere between the fuse (which is OK) and the light switch. I took a seperate live and fed it into the switch - and bingo lights. Then mysteriously the intermittent fault moved into its working phase ....now onto the dim dip..... In fiddling with the switch in trying to trace the intermittent fault it fell to bits (it was a cheap replacement part). So I simply cut it off and soldered the 3 wires together from the block connector as a temporary fix until my new part arrived. However on clipping the connector in on one occasion - I lost the whole light circuit. I'm still getting 12 V at the switch so the problem is now further 'down stream' than that - and as it affects both the side and main lights the only common denominator seems to be the dim dip relay. And true to that theory when I make the circuit I can't hear the click from it anymore. So I've another relay on its way for me to test as I type. I did look at joining the wires to bypass the relay - having read that its the two blue/red wires - however It just seems to have 3 blue wires coming to it and I can't see numbers on the pins... I popped the Relay open but there is no sign of it having burnt out. So hopefully the new relay will solve things - if not any suggestions welcome as I'll be borrowing a car to travel to work until I can fix it ...

Is it a genuine one or one of the copies?

I fancy it too...

Fabulous - absolutely wonderful. I would love to drive something like that. I think it would make an amazing overland to drive from the UK to India and the Himalayas :-)

+1. I was going to mention it, but was getting sick of the sight of my own voice

Best I can find at the moment: Can you see the outer face of the washer is flat. The inner is curved / domed and doesn't touch the outer ring of the shock 'eye'...... That means the shock can twist a little in all directions. Without that twist it will snap eventually.

I'm not sure of a side being differentiated from another by being smooth? But re-read bishbosh's post, he describes it well. The curved / domed side of the washer faces inwards. So it doesn't press on the outer edge of the shock eye. This is so it holds the shock against the mounting pin, but allows the bush to work and the shock to move.

Just seen your other post - you will end up flipping your rear ARB over on the linkage at one or both ends. I took mine off.

The lift is set by the springs and / or spacers. iirc the full kit comes with springs to give a 2" lift The suspension travel, all other things permitting, is limited by the shocks. The Shocks with Gwyn's kit have 5.5" more travel than the standard shocks. The back end will achieve most, if not all, of this potential. Basically because the linkage is non binding. The front won't achieve full use of this - because the radius arms, with their twin mounts for the axle, are binding. No one else seems to worry about the balance front to back though and you can't do much about it without spending a lot of money anyway. SImply perhaps - you can drill the radius arm bushes to loosen it up at the front a bit. From your questions - you would benefit a lot from reading and digesting an excellent article in the tech section of this forum - that describes what does what in more detail than I have sketched out here. As a final word perhaps - I would say that I think Gwyn's kit is an excellent bit of kit. Make sure you choose the brand of shocks to suit where you'd be doing your driving. Terrafirma and OME will give a better ride on the road. hth

JJB, have you read First Overland? if not - I strongly recommend it.

I was about to post about the washer - and mention that over-tightening them can restrict the bush moving as it should and thus put stress on the shock body. I have OME's and they have been excellent and took a lot of stick to boot!

Now now - he could go fast with the 2.5 NA ........ just drive it off a tall cliff

The exclamation is the hand brake light. Sounds like you got a full house for when the ignition is switched - is your switch faulty?

Machine Mart do a decent one for not much money :-)

You'll have seen their botched recovery then - when the strop knocked James May over and bashed his head on the rocks. The scenery and ruins did look amazing - and would be a great experience to drive through.

Holy thread revivals Batman!

Snagger, is that per pair? On 1st 4's web site they are £32.50 without VAT and delivery for a pair. Litch, where did you see the Bearmach ones for £50 for four? Are you quoting prices without VAT?

Its also worth stating that many vehicles emerge from the factory with very conservative maps - and in the right hands can safely yield much smoother curves with higher figures too.

Nick - it begs the question ..... why was it eating UJ's!?

This is a good article, if you haven't seen it ?