Anderzander

I think it'll go through the roof!

Aren't paddocks in Derbyshire? If so you could drive down to get them?

It was - but I think they've been the same for years and years!

I just bought one of these on ebay and a set of nuts and bolts too.

Actually Reb - as a picture tells a thousand words - why not take a load of pictures and post them up? Someone might see something or it might spark an idea. Post some pics of the whole set up, the arm, the links, the column etc.

Croytec don't seem to reply to their email though ...

That's what I was going to say - it'd still have the chips but I'd expect the remains of the plumbers signs to come off. It'd end up tidy and honest - a good look for a Landy

Basically yes - so that when the bottom is in they are ON. Not really an option now though - even if I could source the other type in an on/off and off/mom format I'd have to return these to mudstuff. I wish it was more clear on their website how the switches are orientated.

BLX - I didn't look at the ARB bit ... with not having ARB switches. Hmmm .... what to do.

Malcolm - that's a bit more involved than I wanted to go, I've enough on to just get the jobs done that need doing at the moment Agggghhhh - Disaster! I'll send an email to Mud and see what they say. All the pictures of dash set ups on their web site show the switches as I want them - rather than how I've got them. I did think about turning them upside down - but i'd still be pressing the smooth lit section rather than the bit you're meant to press - and they'd, well, look upside down...

I've just bought an 'on / of'f and 'off / mom' carling switches - but they are wired the reverse to how I expected. i.e. to turn them on I push the top of the switch, over the light, rather than the bottom where the larger number of dimples are .... The switch in the back ground is in the off position - where as I'd like the off position to be as in the one at the front. Can I remove the front and flip it over? and if so how? Any help gratefully received.

I have a straight one I could measure if that would be helpful?

The Td5 clock has two small 'dimples' on the rim - you push one to advance it and one to retard it. There are two live feeds - one a permanent live to run the clock, and a live switched through the side lights to illuminate it. And of course there is an earth. On mine the switched live feed for the illumination is red, the permanent live is purple. hth

Thank you both. That picture is very helpful - hopefully it's the same on the 99MY as to 02MY as pictured. I don't have a windows PC - but I'll download Rave and see if I can extract the relevant pdf's. Will the 99MY info be held on any post 99 version of Rave?

Thanks for the input everyone. I've ordered 3 carling switches from MudStuff and will attempt to fit them as per the picture above of the ARB switches. I'll put up a wanted post for a standard centre panel to cut up - hopefully with all the centre dashes fit there will be one spare.

Have a read of the guide I posted. You can definitely do it - but it is very awkward. You'll need a lot of patience and ideally a 1/4 drive socket with a few extensions and a flexible knuckle for it.

I have the Electrical Circuit Diagrams - which point to Header 0288 (K109) - but whereabouts is this? I've seen this picture posted on the net: But I can't find which manual holds this info (especially for 99MY) or any mention of it too ..... Any and all help gratefully received.

One to fit a 3 link front end.

Almost certain to be FPR . Here's a photo of my bell housing soaked with diesel from when it was leaking. Buy a genuine part to replace it, even though they are more money. Good guide on this disco site: http://www.discovery2.co.uk/Fpr.html

That's encouraging I'm about to replace mine.

Looks like I might be able to just cut the standard panel - I just found this pic:

I want to fit some winch controls into my Defender dash - and would ideally like to fit 3 switches into the centre switch panel ... Like this Mudstuff one: Problem is the mudstuff panel is pre-cut for e-switches, which only come in on/off guise - and I'd want two Off-Mom type. Croytec do a centre switch panel, which takes carling switches - here it is with 4 Carling Switches: Perfect except its over £45 and they don't seem to reply to their emails........ So any suggestions or recommendations would be most welcome.

In this picture you can see how the loom travels from the passenger side of the tunnel to the drivers side seat box and the ECU - that's why it's long enough to run it straight back towards the bulkhead instead.

I had to extend 2 or 3 - I'd have to look to remember, but the hand brake and high/low sensor wires needed extending and maybe one other. Other than that - just drilling a few rivets, cutting holes, and remounting things.

Sounds like you found your clunk :-) When I'm under my 90 I usually manage to spray WD40 in my eyes - it's amazing how many time that's the outcome. Once done I am able to look round twice as quickly as normal - but it doesn't feel healthy.