Peaklander

That lights-on warning lamp is key I think. If that doesn't illuminate with the stalk in the first click (sidelights) then it can only be the switch, it's connection or fuse 16. You can see the circuit in this diagram. Forget the complicated look, just find SWITCH-LIGHTING (S100) and follow that red to the fusebox, through it (thin black) and out of fuse 16, then on Red Orange to INSTRUMENT PACK (J100). The 0 volts side of that looks to all end at earth terminal C556 (RH side of the drawing) and this is at the RH side of the bulkhead (on the engine side). That is also worth checking for brightness on the ring terminations.

If you mean the dash green ‘lights on’ warning lamp then yes I think it’s stalk related. Check the connection first maybe.

The green warning lamp on the dash that shows 'lights on' is enabled by the headlamp stalk through fuse 16. It should light in the first position and the same circuit goes to the RH sidelamp. The LH lamp is fed from that switch through fuse 15 but the warning lamp is not. If neither side lamp is working but the dipped beams are then it must be a fault with the stalk switch and specifically one contact in it. Or maybe you have lost the connection to it on the red core (side) and not the blue (dip)

Yes just a little bit - it's a very small mass. The WD should just shock it cold again. That ought to work...

Have you warmed it and used PlusGas with a careful twist too?

I left mine in the ‘natural’ state and can’t wait until I replace the corners too. The replacement front doors also match 😳

The front and side are working, so that eliminates the hazard. The split to the three lamps is after the switch, at the header I referred to.

The pictures come from the Defender Electrical Library manual which is labelled as 97MY so yes it is later. However I have found that the circuits and connectors in it that are relevant to mine, a 96, are correct. It has others which I do not have but they seem to be additions to existing, rather than it all being different. Yes that header is in the middle of the dash sort of behind the radio, rear wash bit. It's a horrible place to get to so I would try to find the Green/Red wire after there, where it goes through towards the rear. That's because at that header the feed splits to the front and side lamps. If they are OK then I doubt the header is faulty. It is labelled Header joint (K109) in the diagram. I realised that I missed the intermediate connector C376 - C390 which is shown in the diagram below. That is the one on the engine side of the bulkhead, left side as you look in, near the clutch slave pipe. Try to check the voltage there on GR.

The joint nearest the lamp is where the trailer wiring plugs in. That is in the rear right corner - C878. I would look there first as those double bullets can cause problems. Otherwise you need to look at a blue header C278 at the bulkhead. These headers are junctions and are used to join wires of the same colour - in this case there are four different circuits in the one header and the LH indicator circuit is on pins 11-14. I doubt that is the problem. I would look at the rear corner first.

I wonder why they don't explicitly state off-on-mom? The switch is shown without a wipe / wash button, so it's not as if you have to buy one that you might not need.

Ah yes, so I did! In my rush this morning I didn't deduct the refund for the old unit - so £348 incl. VAT delivered.

The price for an exchange Adwest 4 bolt box with a new worm but without the drop-arm, was £468 delivered. I had to pay my own carriage to get the old one to Birmingham but it was cheaper than driving there. I used D&A Steering following a recommendation on here from @Eightpot

I’ll dig it out tomorrow but I have said it on another thread somewhere a little while ago.

I used D & A Steering in Birmingham for a refurb one and am very happy with it so far. I changed it in May and have done about 9K of very varied miles since.

I was meaning the risk of my genuine batteries fitted to the non genuine impact wrench.

After a comment further up (from @Bowie69 I think), I also bought a genuine 3/8" 90 deg Makita ratchet and started to use that this morning. It is a beautiful tool and makes stuff so easy to access and spin off. I am happy with both. The £18 impact wrench was an eBay item - Buy it Now / Make offer , so that's what I did. I although I'm surprised by the battery comments. What failure mode are you guys suggesting?

It was said further up the thread that a cheap Makita copy impact is the best purchase. Well I made the not very difficult decision to buy a 'bare' one the other day. It helps to have a couple of the 18v batteries but wow, this is what I have. It's not bad for £18. 😀

I looked in the Mudstuff table that I used and there isn't an Off-On-Mom switch. They are either Off-Mom or Mom-Off-Mom as far as I can see.

Yes, I have them. I use them for interior lights. Off - Door - On. I deciphered the connections too which weren't obvious so if you need help I have my circuits.

Can anyone find the equivalent thread for this year's projects? I had a search but can't and I would like to see what I committed to doing. 😃

It doesn't go direct on my 300TDi. There's the immobiliser in between. Is that likely to be something here?

Is this any good for now or later? It's a bit basic but I have one for 97MY too which is comprehensive. Defender 91-94 Wiring Diagram.pdf

if PU (purple blue) it is the door pillar switch but that doesn't have a black cable as the ground is through the screw so I don't think it is that. Edit: but it does go to both sides and has the sleeving that would drop down the pillars so maybe it is... If it is UK (blue pink) then that would be left dip lamp but wouldn't that terminate on a three-way headlamp connector?

No, he's saying that it is working and it's OK. The warning light is fed with your battery's voltage at ignition-on and the other end is connected to a stopped alternator. So it lights-up. That current flowing through it also flows into the alternator and when you turn the key to start the engine and it turns over, the current is enough to get the alternator to start to generate power. Initially it is very small and the current keeps flowing and the warning light stays lit. As the engine speed increases the alternator power output increases and eventually the current stops flowing through the warning lamp and it goes off. That tells you that the alternator is working. Usually you wouldn't notice this delay as it is less than a second. So as @TSD said, it really doesn't matter too much if you have to blip the throttle to make it go out. Usually you are moving and the revs are high enough for the alternator to send power to the battery and all is well. By the way a charged battery will show about 12.8V. A charging alternator will give around 14v but that depends on its size and how much stuff you have drawing power, such as headlamps, heated windows, wipers etc. They can pull it down to less than 14v but it should be well over 13v.

As far as I have read and understand, the Polar Vortex has moved over to sit more on the Scandinavia and Asia side. Scandi countries are having some of your cold and snow. The European alps have been buried since November. The weather models are at the moment showing 1978/9 patterns for the UK - who remembers that?? (although it's a couple of weeks out so can change). Best wishes to everyone for a good run-into the New Year and all the best for 2024.