Peaklander

It's much further back than my ex-Disco 300TDi. What has determined that? The bellhousing maybe - will the gearbox have also moved across to this vehicle? I tend not to look at those sorts of topics but now I'm interested!

That one has / had 'nut busting' torque of 400Nm. Every time I start to look I find myself thinking "must go bigger". Maybe not? I have had little success with my Aldi air wrench but that's probably no benchmark. I would want to be sure of releasing crusty stuff on lower suspension arms or similar. Is 400Nm enough or it that tool far better suited to speeding-up normal jobs? Also @Bowie69 the battery ratchets look long. Are they better suited for above an engine or on a workbench or can they be manouvered?

Would you share the model number please?

Hopefully there are other options too and just to lighten the discussion, who remembers the assurances that "computers will lead to the paper-less office"? That hasn't quite happened, even after the ~40 years since the IBM-PC was released.

You wouldn't believe the improvement in the knowledge and performance of parts suppliers in the UK - EU during the period from 1980 - 2000 that was directly due to the demands of Nissan, Honda and Toyota. They were helped in development of their parts quality, cost and on-time delivery, by those assembly plants and the benefit spread to 'non Japan' plants too. If you read The Machine That Changed the World, you will know this. If you then read Lean Thinking, then you will also know how the existing brownfield sites (assembly and suppliers) then followed suit and learnt how to 'right-size' their manufacturing and turn from batch and queue to cells. It has been a monumental change.

I have had this discussion so many times since the Japanese transplants, as they used to be referred to, first arrived here in the 1980s. If you make a profit on a vehicle sale, at the top level, then yes, simply you could say that it goes to Head office's country. However the costs on which that profit was made are scattered all over and there are lots of 'sales' that are made to produce those costs, which should each also have an element of profit. You could say simply that Item A is made in the UK, so there 'is profit' at that company on their sale. There are also bought costs that go into item A's production and each of those should also generate a profit at the suppliers. It could be the equipment installer, or the contractors that run new cables to the lights. It could be at the butty van outside where 'the workers' spend some of their salary. It goes on and on. Someone's cost also has an element of other peoples' profit. If we are "doing stuff" in the UK, then it is better than not. Even no profit would still generate activity and taxes that are paid locally. As for the source of parts, the aforementioned transplants had to localise parts to the EU. 80% of vehicle cost was required to be able to sell across the EU countries. I don't know how that has changed and I certainly don't know the source of the Defender or Jag. parts but I would guess that many are still EU sourced. I could find out.

Well that was just over 5,000 miles and 28.5 mpg (9.9 litres per 100km). 42 nights camping in the Landy and one each way on the ferry. Nothing bad happened. I lost a new wiper blade on the M18 on day 1, a Roamerdrive leak was fixed on day 3 and the rear wiper stopped on the penultimate day. It was a sticky brush but I didn't look until after the trip (today). There are a couple of small water leaks to inside, during the heaviest rain and only when the vehicle is at slightly the wrong angle. One dodgy USB outlet which has been in use for six years. I'll replace with a type C. It has been great having power front windows. The clunk in the drivetrain is somewhere around the R380 but I will check once more. Engine oil use is a bit strange. First of all I think that the dipstick level is very dependant on how the vehicle is sitting. I have topped up with 4 litres but it is a little overfull. I think the last top-up was done in a hurry and there is probably 0.5 more than there should be. The discussion about what to do about that and the clunk, will be in my vehicle thread. The borders were a surprise. Schengen no longer means free movement. The lorry queues into Bulgaria (EU but not Schengen) from Greece and into Croatia from Serbia were huge but also there was a temporary border check from Slovenia into Austria (but not at the border, further inside Austria). It took two hours in the car queue to cross into Croatia having taken 20mins to leave Serbia. Here's the route out and back, taken from the vehicle tracker. The colours are roughly the different driving days. It was a great trip. Daylight is a bit short in October but the sea is at it's warmest.

Couldn't wait and I Googled the part number to see what it is.

I walked around Gaydon long before the new Defender was released. There they do all the design work. So there were clay models, 'real' design models in the flesh, pre-production built models. They have R&D, designers, engineers, technicians, apprentices in all disciplines, procurement, parts quality, experts in this and that, etc etc all over there. They are also diving big into battery manufacture here too. It's a huge employer and covers the entire vehicle. Yes Defender manufacturing is in another country which is a shame but there's a lot to be proud of in the UK. Not many other car manufacturers here do all that 'stuff' in the UK.

That's the build but everything else, everything, is done here, at Gaydon.

I don't think anyone notices the difference in looks, either on or off, unless they are LR owners themselves. The leds are much brighter but also offer less all-round light, which I don't think matters, as the increase in light directed forwards and backwards is so much better.

The other thing is, why don’t you get the matching electrical sockets and put them at the loom in place of the bullets? Then you don’t need to cut them at the lamps. Also they are polarity sensitive so if you do connect with wires, just check each one works and if not, reverse them. @PaulMc will be able to advise and supply.

The older vehicle such as yours (and mine) use a circuit at the indicator warning lamp in the dash, that isn't compatible with the use of leds at the indicators (and repeaters). If you change the front/rear indicators to leds, you also need to change the (green) flashing indicator at the dash. This is a tiny dual led that isolates the right and left side circuits so that the warning light works correctly. I have not changed the repeaters as I thought at the time that they wouldn't work. BUT I don't remember why I thought that. I don't think it is a problem. Edit: This is what I used https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/394294827529 Sorry posted at the same time as @fmmv. Hopefully both comments help.

Peaklander is a bit boring too. I think I first used it on the Netweather forums. I lurked on there as a guest for sometime and after I watched the amateur weather experts predict the coming of the Nov/Dec 2010 snow so accurately, I registered, only to lurk again. I read the current models discussion thread nearly every day. Also I used it on a forum which is LR UK. Not sure if it always was called that but it was when I restored a 1975 88" petrol and read all the posts by @Snagger and someone called Jayhoe, using them as benchmarks and inspiration. So it's a Netweather name really and defines where I live - the Peak District. I was brought up here but moved away, coming back just over 20 years ago.

Yes. The 2 is there if you look for long enough and fold your eyelids and refocus several times 😄

My 1996 300TDi none EGR is a 21L from a Discovery, supplied by Turner Engineering. It used to be 16L which must have failed and was swapped in 2003 (before me).

@Troll Hunter, it's quite a coincidence but that 110 is for sale via Facebook today. The FB ad links to here... https://www.finn.no/car/used/ad.html?finnkode=325632683&fbclid=IwAR1VkFSnoNpGCHjEFMfv6geERbFBwrHCIQ1CvBhCHBuVuCDCVfZy8tbBW38

I won't derail anymore but at one site I thought I would Google a model there which was a Flair by Niesmann-Bischoff. Unbelievable pricing, depending on options, of £250-300K.

Wow that’s a bad story but with a happy ending for you both. Glad to hear you are back; I too was wondering. I can think of a few names on here that have stopped posting and it make you think.

OP hasn’t been back yet since posting. I think I saw the same question on FB. The feedback might help others in future.

Is it coolant or oil? Colour and location would be steering fluid (ATF). You can look up and see the pipe from the pump. If there’s a leak it drips off curve of the pipe. Your coolant should really be blue. If it is water then perhaps you use orange additive.

I found I got annoyed on our recent trip. Huge motorhomes with two people sometimes towing a box trailer. Inside the trailer … an ATV so that the people can drive around locally. It wasn’t once or twice. The level of consumption of ‘stuff’ is staggering.

That's what we have and it can be mounted in a sleek oblong box with hinged front face rather than a zip bag. The canvas stops a lot of heat coming through, as well as being waterproof - often more useful.

We have a Dometic chest fridge, 35 litres. Model is CFX 35 or something like. It continues to work very well after several years, off an aux battery fed with a 100W panel and the alternator. I was just yesterday comparing power consumption with an Engel. Ours is rated at 7A / 12V which seems to be much higher than an Engel, however I don't think it ever draws that much. The only circumstances when aux battery /solar supply can be a problem is when it is either damp, cold and cloudy or very hot. Then the fridge and D2 air heater can pull the power out of the battery in 24 hours. In v hot places the fridge runs frequently. In that case we have window blinds and alway have a reflective layer on the fridge top / side next to the window. It has just been used 24/7 for the last 7 weeks, (including overnight on the ferries 😜).