Peaklander

The locking of the crank at the flywheel sets #1 piston at the correct position (firing tdc) and the pump is locked at its previously setup position with the pin. The camshaft is the one point that is free to move and is set manually at the correct position, indicated by the marks.

@western

Try waking him up this way @TCI Land Rovers

The timing of the pump (at overhaul) is set with a dial gauge at the back. When it is at the correct position (normally 1.57mm of ‘lift’) , the shaft is locked. Then the flange is positioned and locked on with the big nut (that isn’t normally moved). It is put on so that the timing pin goes in all the way. The shaft is then unlocked and is free to turn. Then later you can just use that pin position, knowing that the pump timing is correct. Apparently there can be wear in the pump and I think that’s why a looser pin (smaller diameter drill bit) is sometimes used, which I think advances the timing. 🤷🏻‍♂️ need to think a bit more about that though.

That’s because the fip flange has been mounted to the shaft just a little bit off, at the timing position that your 9mm drill timing pin would need.

Yes, they are essential. 😊

The two questions are linked. The interior lamps and the alarm are part of the same system - the 10AS is the controller. If you want to sort out the alarm then you need to be able to close the doors and the 10AS must detect this. Have you operated the key fob? When you press unlock all the indicators will flash once to show that the alarm is off. Can you get that far as a first step?

You need to work through methodically. A previous post of yours has detail about the 10AS and the interior lights. You need to be sure that the 10AS is not in alarm state. I imagine that it could be. Sticking a test lamp in that connector (to the sounder?) isn’t going to tell you much.

This is a ZIZ-110 1965 4.2 E-type

There’s quite a museum in the village. The owner of a vineyard/winery has assembled these. Some are his and some are on loan. Chopped Merc is his desk.

A few more random pics, Corinth Canal (which is amazingly bizarre) and local roads in Bulgaria neatr the campsite yesterday.

Scenic drives all over.

Passed some recent terrible flooding on the Pelion.

On the Peloponnese, we drove up into the Taygetos mountain range, to repeat a road that we first drove in this Landy about 8 years ago. We didn’t see anyone on the easy gravel for several hours. Unfortunately, just before reaching the tarmac going east, which we didn’t want, the steep road down to the south west, that we did want, was closed. The sign says ‘roadworks’ and as far as we could see with binoculars it was clear but after some discussion we turned around. that meant retracing our steps. It was a nice day though.

Try these guys in Manchester UK I bought injectors for a Honda from them. https://www.pfjones.co.uk/bosch-diesel-agent.html Or these people, a little workshop in Sheffield. https://www.sheafdieselservices.com

It might be in alarm state. Check that your key fobs work as you need one to clear the alarm. Once cleared it is hard to set it until the doors and bonnet closing signals are good and the interior lights then work properly. Ir take the 10AS out and send it to https://www.technozen-electronics.co.uk He will check it and configure it as you require.

I’m sure the job would be easier if the companies tried harder to efficiently pack the vans. The parcels and items just appear to be thrown in. There’s no order; no obvious attempt to organise by drop or group of drops. The bigger items are harder to arrange but easier to see, although I bet their delivery notes don’t state the size, or even “big” “long” “bent”. Small items could be in semi-organised racks or open bags, by street or postcode or block number. Time to retrieve a package would be an interesting measure but possibly not practicable.

The purple-white cable is used in the interior light circuit. It is connected on the 0 volt side of the light, when the switch is in door position. It doesn’t go directly to the battery / chassis 0v connection. It goes to the 10AS unit that controls those lights. When a door opens, or a key fob ‘unlock’ is pressed, the lights are turned on. The 10AS then decides when to switch them off. It does this by controlling the voltage on that PW wire. The lamps go off when ignition is turned on, or after the doors are closed (15secs) or if they are left open, after 15 mins or something. This all supposes that it is original wiring and someone hasn’t stuck a PW cable in there as a curve ball.

He’s found the problem @western and is letting us know. @Freeby, I haven’t had this problem but it has been mentioned on here I’m sure. I have 5% battery left. If I can get a search result before it dies I will share.

I’ve just had a minor annoying experience with Evri. Just when I have got comfortable with them after their unreliable times, they tried one. I returned a box to @muddy and was careful to measure it to just achieve their maximum ’overall dimension’. It was collected (nice option) and moved to the local depot. Then it stopped. I had to use their Chat Bot. What a waste of time these things are. it didn’t move. They promised to look into it. I would get a reply within 24hrs. I used the bot again. Then it was being sorted. Then after a week it was due to be delivered between x and y. It was delivered but at the same time I was told it couldn’t be as it was oversize. I saw the photo proof. Then I got and invoice for a surcharge. I started to argue with their receiveables people. I asked for proof it was oversize. Nothing came. Muddy measured the box. The overall dimension was 250mm and the limit is 245. I challenged them that +5mm was splitting hairs and that their original claim that the driver didn’t have the correct sized van was unreasonable. They cancelled the surcharge.

I have had trouble at those relays. The third one is for the headlamps and on a couple of occasions they have died as I was driving. I think my intermittent fault was the connections at the relay base rather than the relay itself. I have tried to clean and spray with contact cleaner and all seems OK but I’ll find out during the winter darkness I’m sure. The only way to properly fix would then be to strip out the fuse box assembly and re-crimp new spade sockets.

Wow, it’s going to look fairly new after all that! What an overhaul. (I recognise the Ashcroft labels)

Are you in FL with an FL?

Just checking: are you waiting for the starter motor to turn? Is that the hesitancy? If so, carry on. Otherwise there’s the immobiliser feed to the fuel solenoid to consider too although that always needs to operate once started so I doubt it is relevant really.