Peaklander

I used D & A Steering in Birmingham for a refurb one and am very happy with it so far. I changed it in May and have done about 9K of very varied miles since.

I was meaning the risk of my genuine batteries fitted to the non genuine impact wrench.

After a comment further up (from @Bowie69 I think), I also bought a genuine 3/8" 90 deg Makita ratchet and started to use that this morning. It is a beautiful tool and makes stuff so easy to access and spin off. I am happy with both. The £18 impact wrench was an eBay item - Buy it Now / Make offer , so that's what I did. I although I'm surprised by the battery comments. What failure mode are you guys suggesting?

It was said further up the thread that a cheap Makita copy impact is the best purchase. Well I made the not very difficult decision to buy a 'bare' one the other day. It helps to have a couple of the 18v batteries but wow, this is what I have. It's not bad for £18. 😀

I looked in the Mudstuff table that I used and there isn't an Off-On-Mom switch. They are either Off-Mom or Mom-Off-Mom as far as I can see.

Yes, I have them. I use them for interior lights. Off - Door - On. I deciphered the connections too which weren't obvious so if you need help I have my circuits.

Can anyone find the equivalent thread for this year's projects? I had a search but can't and I would like to see what I committed to doing. 😃

It doesn't go direct on my 300TDi. There's the immobiliser in between. Is that likely to be something here?

Is this any good for now or later? It's a bit basic but I have one for 97MY too which is comprehensive. Defender 91-94 Wiring Diagram.pdf

if PU (purple blue) it is the door pillar switch but that doesn't have a black cable as the ground is through the screw so I don't think it is that. Edit: but it does go to both sides and has the sleeving that would drop down the pillars so maybe it is... If it is UK (blue pink) then that would be left dip lamp but wouldn't that terminate on a three-way headlamp connector?

No, he's saying that it is working and it's OK. The warning light is fed with your battery's voltage at ignition-on and the other end is connected to a stopped alternator. So it lights-up. That current flowing through it also flows into the alternator and when you turn the key to start the engine and it turns over, the current is enough to get the alternator to start to generate power. Initially it is very small and the current keeps flowing and the warning light stays lit. As the engine speed increases the alternator power output increases and eventually the current stops flowing through the warning lamp and it goes off. That tells you that the alternator is working. Usually you wouldn't notice this delay as it is less than a second. So as @TSD said, it really doesn't matter too much if you have to blip the throttle to make it go out. Usually you are moving and the revs are high enough for the alternator to send power to the battery and all is well. By the way a charged battery will show about 12.8V. A charging alternator will give around 14v but that depends on its size and how much stuff you have drawing power, such as headlamps, heated windows, wipers etc. They can pull it down to less than 14v but it should be well over 13v.

As far as I have read and understand, the Polar Vortex has moved over to sit more on the Scandinavia and Asia side. Scandi countries are having some of your cold and snow. The European alps have been buried since November. The weather models are at the moment showing 1978/9 patterns for the UK - who remembers that?? (although it's a couple of weeks out so can change). Best wishes to everyone for a good run-into the New Year and all the best for 2024.

Getting the pin to fit at any cost, by loosening the centre shaft, is not the correct approach. You would be altering the pump timing just to get the pin in and this is wrong. The whole point about the pump pin is that it goes through that flange hole (and locates in the body of the pump) at the point when the pump is turned to the correct position for injection at #1. The flywheel pin and crank and cam marks ensure that the rest of the engine is sitting at #1 TDC. The pump flange has been set on the shaft so that you can insert the pin, putting the pump into that position before fitting the belt around its pulley. At this stage of your refit, you have to assume that the pump is correctly timed, sitting there with the pin in the hole and no belt around its pulley. If you are in any doubt about this then you can check the pump timing, which is done using a dti gauge. If necessary, the flange can be moved by loosening the centre nut but only when you are in a position to clamp the pump shaft at the correct position. Watch the video to learn the process. It is more likely that you need to persevere with trying to get the belt on, as you are doing, even if that means fitting, tensioning and doing a few turns of the crank and then trying to refit. Lots of others on here will have had the same trouble - I have only fitted the belt on my 300TDi on two occasions.

I had a 1:1 day earlier this year with Off road Consultancy. Chris was recommended by a well known and respected member on here and I was very satisfied with the day. https://offroadconsultancy.co.uk

That could easily be the tyre rather than the rim, couldn't it?

How long was it down for and what will you do to recover the lost output?

My NFU renewal is 'up' and is 12% higher than last year. They won't entertain any negotiation though, saying they are using what they call "fair pricing" or something. This seems to mean that the first renewal price is the last. I tried Adrian Flux, entered loads of modifications on their site, had two phone conversations but their price is £90-£100 more than the NFU. One thing about the NFU is that they happily cover us across Europe and this year provided a green card (no cost and no difficulty) for other destinations. They also employ people in the local office. So I will stay with them but I do wonder how you guys are achieving premiums for less than £200.

Please keep posting your ideas. There will be many lurkers on here; I certainly am. The only way you will know is through a few 'likes'!

The two flaps are connected together with a long rod and there’s a short arm connected to it at a right angle. The bowden cable goes to it - so inside the lowest part of the dash. Pull the cable and the rod rotates. There’s some spring metal in there too, acting as a resistance to movement, that allows the flaps to close when the cable goes slack.

The devil is in the detail (extent of cover, voluntary excess, legal fees, protected NCB etc.) but I would say that is a very good price.

Is £112 the extra premium for the disco on a multi car policy?

I used Modbus in the 1980s - it was the proprietary network connection for Modicon PLCS. RS485 is I think is based on balanced pairs, extending the range of normal RS232. What I didn't know about is its use in domestic electrical systems. Have you an example?

The heater spigot to which I was referring is shown in this pic. Your leak is much bigger than mine but still, just have a look there. It's on the right side at the back of the head. The rotation bug is back. I can't get the forum to post this pic the correct way round, even though I have offered both orientations. i will try from my iPhone in a minute. Edit. I used a screenshot of the rotated pic.

Were there any errors shown on the display? Did you measure those volts at the fridge or battery?