Peaklander

There's choice of two on the Paddock website, both in stock according to this... You could perhaps ring them to try to get it expedited if you have an address you could use like a campsite. They also state a £5 charge for delivery to France and £10 to Spain although it doesn't give a delivery lead time.

They will sell you what you ask for if you are nice to them. They are advising you that you need MTF because that is indeed what has been recommended for your (R380) gearbox for some years - even though it was originally ATF that was specified by LR. However it's a free country. By the way if it's Euro Car Spares (who do like to use vehicle reg filters on their parts listings), be sure that you use an on line discount code (they always have them) and buy online and click and collect. You can't get the same price if you just turn-up at the counter unless you set up a trade account. Typically they have -20% or -25% discount codes which only then, in some cases, brings their prices down to 'reasonable'. The last MTF I bought came from Smith and Allan.

I hope I haven't misread something in the thread but isn't this what you have to do? So use a +12v feed to the stop solenoid and then "touch" +12v to the starter solenoid to turn over the engine? If the starter spins briskly and the solenoid opens to allow fuel then there can't be anything else electrical that will prevent starting.

It's cheap and easy though isn't it?

At the end of the week I should get chance to swap them around. It's probably better if they are moved to the other side of the pads. I'll remove the coil springs too. Don't know why I left those in. It will be sooo good to get rid of the rattles. Those ppl that don't have this for whatever reason have no idea have bad it sounds - usually at low speed, in a nice quiet car park, campsite or somewhere - it sounds as though something is really wrong even though its a rattle and nothing more.

Coast over in neutral. That should be safe enough.

I've been chasing this rattle for almost two years (not full time ) and there are all sorts of theories about how to fix. I had already fitted new discs, calipers and pads and once I got somewhere hot and had the windows open all the time I really noticed the rattles and they became annoying. I tried different fitting kits but as Snagger says those coil springs are useless. I made my own shims to fit between pad and pistons halfway round Greece when it got too much, but I was sure there would be a better solution. Once I saw =jon='s solution this summer I was just waiting for a chance to fit it myself. Surprisingly I couldn't find a photo on the interweb to show them. Yes maybe they could go on the other side although it probably doesn't matter - they still go on the caliper side where they go around the middle tab so could interfere. Anyhow thanks again for the help and for the thread with your solution =jon= Now I've got to refit all the CSW seats as I promised to drive the bridesmaids to a friend's wedding in a couple of weeks.

Guys - amazing quick responses - thanks. It's fantastic how alive this forum is. I've been doing some work on a Honda CR-V for one of our daughters and the forums over there aren't the same! This is how I've done mine with the spring on the outside of the pads. I did this as I thought there would be less chance of interfering with the ends of the coiled springs than if I were to tuck them on the disc side of the pads.

Finally I have time to do some work on my Landy. I've now got this mintex set but I don't know how to use it - at least I don't know how to fit the spring bits. It's a bit embarrassing I know. Existing "rattley" set-up is that I have the pins passing through coiled springs and held with split pins. The front pads rattle lengthways - that is they move in the direction of rotation. If I add these long pins, where do they locate? Can anyone shed any light? Thanks Edit: I think that they each tuck under the pins, one on each side with the middle part sprung over the middle tab on the pad.

^^^^ I've used the butyl too. It works very well and self amalgamates too which is mostly useful but can be a pita too ?

They have an office crammed with people taking phone calls and handling the web orders. When I last got ti look in there were probably a dozen. It's not normally possible nowadays as they moved the service desk and covered their yard. I find a combo of their site and lrseries can handle most part lookups and it's very clear which brands they are offering. They can have big queues at the counter too, even with two serving. This is mainly when people don't know what they want. Then they switch on their excellent parts knowledge in order to help. Several years ago I made a formal proposal to them to help with their warehousing / picking organisation. Didn't take it though!?

I admire your patience and have enjoyed the thread. Thanks for sharing the journey and I hope you have a great trip to Glencoe.

Great result! How much did this socket differ from the one you had tried?

When I had the same problem I filed some flats so that I could get some mole grips on more securely and combined with a bit of heat managed to release. I'd try to avoid splitting the calliper. Pulling the entire swivel is messy, undoing the screws that hold the seal retainer can be difficult as well (tiny heads, easy to round and not much to get hold of). Then you still have to disturb the swivel pins and pull the drive shaft with it. then it's an awkward lump to try to work with on the bench.

Great stuff - so glad you persevered and I think that's a smile at the end!

Me too! It must be very frustrating but I can't wait for the next episode ?

Thank you

I tried the Durafix rod after reading this thread. It was at the rear of my rear 110 tub side panel. It would have worked but the molten metal sagged away from the crack that I was trying to fill, presumably because it's a vertical panel. In the end I stuck a piece of aluminium on the back with tiger seal then filled and painted in the usual way. The difficulty for me as a novice was to try not to chase the flame with the stick but to melt it onto the base metal once that was hot enough (just as the videos show).

That's interesting; sounds like a result. Do you have a part number for those particular springs please as I'd be very keen to try myself?

I got a real shock when I came to fix a swing away wheel carrier and had to drill the cappings in my newly acquired 110 CSW. The exterior looked fine but once the rear trims were removed there wasn't much there. Fortunately I found a galvanised pair on eBay and I've fitted those leaving the galv. exposed and they look ok like that (to me anyway). I agree with Maverik in that it's best to separate at every dissimilar metal joint. As well as the butyl rubber strip I've also used a ~4cm wide roll of adhesive-backed plastic strip which is aerospace quality and is food where a strong, thin barrier. In my case I think the cappings rotted due to copious water leaks - probably due to failed seals between the capping tops and the side panels.

This was mine, a 1996 110 CSW (you should have seen the cappings!)

Mine is butyl rubber so it's good stuff as it is waterproof.

I bought some rubber strip off eBay. Comes on a big roil with one side adhesive. It's useful for all manner of jobs between metals.

The sender needs 12 volts across the full resistance and the wiper contact (which is moved by the float arm) moves between one end of this resistance and the other, picking up from 12V at one end to 0 volts at the other. So if you have an ohm meter and with things disconnected from 12v, find the two contacts with the greatest resistance between them (with the float somewhere in the middle of the travel). Those are the two that need the +12v and the 0v (ground / earth). The third contact is the wiper and the gauge is connected to this. It will pick up from 12v at one end of the wiper travel, to 0v at the other (to show full to empty). If you connect a meter and measure the resistance from the wiper contact on one side to each of the other two connections in turn, the resistance will move from close or equal to zero ohms when the wiper is at one end of the travel to maximum ohms - actually the same as between the two main contacts that you found before, at the other end of the travel. If the wiper loses its connection as the float moves through the range of travel then it is indeed faulty.

Thank you for the advice, they look like great places. We really rushed the part of the trip back along the north coast. It was a "clockwise" trip from Bilbao and most of our time was spent in mid central Spain (Segovia etc), across through Extramadura to mid Portugal and then north and north west to Atlantic Galicia via the Serra da Peneda. "Next time".