ianmayco68

No probs , that’s my thoughts after she started ok today and ran fine and like you said can’t understand how the turbo can spin when the engine hasn’t run . Didn’t realise the solenoid could make that much racket when it stuck or vibrate the engine like that. Seems like panic over . Are old starter motors worth refurbishing? I know you can replace the solenoid is there any other parts that you should replace ? cheers Ian

200tdi it turned over when I first turned the key but failed to start , then wouldn’t turn over after the first attempt . But thinking about it if the solenoid on the starter stuck after the first attempt to start her would that make a noise like something spinning and would it make a slight vibration on the engine, enough to make me think it was the turbo.

Put my hand on the top and I could feel it vibrating it was spinning at quite a speed , and I couldn’t think of anything else it could be. I did fit that electric lift pump over Christmas but I pulled the power wire out of that to rule that out. The noise it was making sounded more like a washer in a can than a grating sound .

Sorry forgot to say it’s a 200tdi 110 last night , so put her in the shed this morning she started ok ran fine no rattle on idle , took the turbo to air filter pipe off and there’s no play in the turbo . Only thing I did notice is a bit of oil around the turbo were the pipe to the intercooler fits and the pipe to the fuel pump which wasn’t there the other day as I had the pipes off to do something else. Will strip the rest of the pipes off tomorrow as I need to get ready for work now . The puzzling thing is why the turbo was spinning when the engine hadn’t started , I thought at 1st that the heater blower was stuck on at full chat . So perhaps it is the starter motor on the way out, how long do they last mines about 2/3 years old but only been used daily for about 12 months ? cheers Ian

Hi all , just finished my shift at 10.15 tonight went out to the motor turned the key all the lights came on turned it to start her she tried then went dead , tried again nothing didn’t even turn over . So thought the starter motor might be stuck , but could her a whering sound from the engine bay opened the bonnet and the turbo was spinning fast the after a while it stopped , I did give the starter a tap then after a few more tries she started . She ran fine but on tick over I could hear something that was spinning rattling like it wasn’t spinning true , but when I accelerated the rattling went . I did the 10 mile journey home slowly trying not to boost to much on the turbo , came home no problem, egt gauge normal , no overheating, no burning smells and no smoke that I could see in the dark . So I’m thinking that my turbo might be knackered or on the way out , but wondered if anyone has any other ideas or thoughts on what might have caused this ? Any help will be much appreciated cheers Ian

No not in any urgent hurry , the plan was to sell them on latter or swap them for some alloys if anyone had some lying around unwanted . Can pm you some photo's if you want ?

Got a set of 5 in the shed with Mitchelin tyres on , tyres nearly new . They’re off my project will be putting alloys on her so surplus to requirements if your still looking for some .

Hi all , wired it up as western said , fitted a new oil pressure switch and all’s working fine . Just need to order and fit one of them switches suggested by Bowie69 . cheers Ian

Cheers all , will go with Ralph’s suggestion on the feed and Bowie’s on the impact sensing switch , seems a better option that way as ignition feed is more reliable. thanks for the help Ian

Did think about doing it that way , but reading reb78’s post Tsd pointed out that the relay should really be activated via the alternator or oil pressure switch for safety reasons, ie if your in a smash the pump will cut out if the engine stops and won’t empty the tank over the road.

Hi all , finished installing my electric lift pump today took longer than expected as had to make a bracket due to moving the fuel filter as I've got a clutch servo fitted . But as I'm new to this wiring lark tried to fit a switch into the wiring so I can bleed the system with out the engine being on and have knackered my oil pressure switch so a trip to craddocks in the morning is called for , trucks running fine no leaks but fuel pump doesn't kick in as oil switch broke . So what would be the best way to install sed switch ? Have the relay wired like this pin 30 12v from battery 5amp fuse pin 87 power to pump pin 85 to oil pressure switch pin 86 earth would I be ok running a second live from the fuse attached to the battery then connect it to the live wire on the pump after the relay as in image below any help much appreciated cheers Ian

Cheers that looks like a much better solution as the hole is bigger than the bolt size , and the hole got split in places when I was getting the rivnut out that I tried. cheers Ian

Hi all , fitting my electric lift pump today and encountered a problem. One of the nuts welded on the inside of the bulkhead that holds the fuel filter on have come off , so tried a rivnut but the shoulders were to small so before I open the hole out to put in a larger rivnut which I’ll need to get anyway dose anyone know if there is a better fixing that I can use other than a rivnut ? cheers Ian

I’ve used a rear 1/4 chassis from the people in your 1st thread for my rebuild there’s some pics in the thread , it fitted quite well and was well made I chose the 3mm option .

Hi all , would just like to wish everyone a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year, lets hope next year is a good one and don’t get to drunk . Have a good one everybody Ian

I would definitely go and have a look if that's what your after she looks very tidy , but I'd still get underneath and have a good look round just to make sure it is as the seller says it is .

Sounds like a job well done , what make off oil are you putting in ?

If your doing the work your self not a lot , dearest bits is probably the seat belts approx £100 , discs £40 , rear wheel bearing £10 but you might be able to adjust this to take out the play , but as you need to replace the discs I'd replace the bearings both sides , new bush a few quid . Oil leak ( they all leak its a requirement I'm told ) needs investigation as to were its coming from price for that depends on what's leaking . She looks very tidy and worth a look . cheers Ian

It is a shame so why did we scrap the Harrier ? A friend of mine from school joined the RAF as a tech/ mechanic he worked on most of the aircraft and he said it was the best of the lot , and we scrap it .

It looks like my memory is working wright there appears to be 2 fitted .

You can get this Hellar one its adjustable was thinking of getting one to wire my screen in . https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Timer-Relay-Heated-Windscreen-Window-Delay-Off-15mins-max-Land-Rover-Defender/391722336135?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3D7bd0d019baf84f35bcb8d8ebf713d8fb%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D15%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D253280857425&_trksid=p2481888.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3A6adba746-e431-11e7-86a3-74dbd180ccd9%7Cparentrq%3A6b4c5f691600ad793f7d1df3fffcf644%7Ciid%3A1

Not sure but mines a 93 K reg .

I’m nearly 90% sure that my 110 had 2 each side both metal I cleaned them up and painted them , can remember thinking why was there 2 each side will have a look tomorrow see if I can confirm it, but it was bout 2 years ago.

I’m pretty sure there’s 2 on mine if I remember correctly, mines a 110 200tdi .

Cheers Mike will remove it then I can give the inside a good clean if needed . Don’t think mines knackered , just think it might need a bit of tlc it’s 20 odd years old and when I rebuilt her ( would of refurbed the pump then if I’d known you could get a refurb kit) I fitted a red booster clutch servo for when the wife drives it and I think it might be struggling sometimes to keep up with the demand from that and the brakes, so thought I’d refu4b it and see if there’s any difference .