Retroanaconda

20 pints rings a bell? 11.1 litres in foreign measurements. Edit: Check your owner's manual, it's in there under the Recommended Lubricants, Fluids and Capacities section

Only if the water can go somewhere, which if the jet is the highest point (and it is)...it can't. I put the non-return valve (get it from an aquarium place by the way, same size as the airline hosing, about 20p each) directly after the pump and I had no discernible delay in pressing the button and getting the spray come out the back.

Yep, pretty sure. It's shown on this map which ones will be downgraded to bridleways: http://www.highways....nts_may2004.pdf Still going to be a few lef, they're basically removing the one that spears off the A3 at Hindhead (as that road is being de-comissioned), and the one that runs from Gibbet Hill up to the A3 at Highcombe Farm. The one coming up from Haslemere way through the common to Gibbet Hill, and the one from Gibbet Hill down to Boundless Road (the steep one) will be kept, as well as the two on the north side with a new link being added between them, forming a loop around past the youth hostel.

I'm thinking of starting at the car park off the A3 at SU 89033 35735 at around 9:30 - 10:00 on Sunday. If anyone wants to join then let me know via PM and I'll meet you there

Yep. My Focus has one to disable the traction control on the front wheels. With it on it doesn't let you do wheelspins, and where's the fun in that? Can't turn the ABS off though without pulling fuses, not sure I'd want to even if I could though...it's kinda nice to have in an emergency.

Thinking of heading over there this Sunday. Some of the lanes will be closing soon due to the new road, so good to use them while we can

I know this weekend is the North Wales trip and so a lot of people will be off to that, but I can't go due to cost so my brother and I are planning to do some laning a little bit closer to home. Anybody else fancy some greenlaning around the Hindhead area this weekend?

I believe so yes, although it looks as if they have changed it around a bit in terms of box layout. I see it's now on sale to all at that price, a good deal. Was a trade-only offer when I bought it.

Bear in mind that the lobe may not be sitting on the cam properly. Flick the engine on the starter a bit and then try it again, the manual pump doesn't always line up correctly and you have to do this to rectify it.

I just have two big batteries in there, linked via a split-charge as I sometimes like to run auxillary devices off the second battery without the worry of not being able to start the truck the next morning. If you don't need that capability, then two big batteries in parallel will serve just as well.

This may be a store-specific thing then, as I reguarly phone my local store and see what the prices will be with a trade card (my dad gets one through Monarch Aircraft Engineering oddly enough) before driving over there. Even if I'm in and need to ask they never ask for a card until actual payment at the desk. As has been said above, one needs to be clever about it as some things can still be bought cheaper elsewhere...but for some things it's a bargain. My Professional Range socket set (the massive one, with the standard lifetime guarantee) I got for £100 with my dad's trade card. Not bad at all.

Disc braked rear axle came in on the very late 200Tdis I think, VIN KA930455 I *think* was the last one to officially have drums on the rear. Or so the parts records say...

Personally I would make it either a challenge truck or a daily driver, but it is up to you in the end. I myself would rather have the 300Tdi engine, simpler to work on and arguably better for more severe off-roading, but if the truck was only going to be used for road duties and light off-roading (greenlaning sort of levels) a Td5 will do you better as there's more power to be had.

Mine, which had the proper LR setup, consists of a pump in the bottle (double pump bottle) and then a tube which runs up the nearside windscreen pillar, along the roof edge and then onto the rear jet. A non-return valve just after the pump stops the fluid draining back into the bottle between washes. Never froze in mine, the washer fluid stops it doing so I believe. I've seen setups where the pump is in the door in a bag thing too though.

Green diamonds would be a no I should think. I believe they are footpaths, large cross-country routes etc. As said above, let us know where you are and there may be local people willing to 'show' you the ropes on some local lanes...if there are any

The only benefit I can see to a headlining in an off-roading Defender is to stop the roof panels vibrating. My truck cab roof vibrates in the wind sometimes, but I think glueing some rubber sheeting to it should stop that. In a purely road-going Defender I would have one though, for appearance's sake

Tried these guys? http://www.ajstyres.co.uk/

Nice tidy install. Is the slam panel rigid enough without those struts in place? I dunno about the LR badge in the middle though, always preferred them in OE position off to one side

I didn't mean yours, I was posting up a link to a Td5 dash I saw on eBay...but then I thought it was such a good deal I decided to buy it! Hence no longer relevant. Your pics look good, make sure to take some more as you go along. It's always good to have reference photos of people's installs Sorry if my previous post was mis-construed in any way.

All mine has is a set of worn old BFG Trac-Edges, some underside protection and recovery points, and I still manage to have fun A winch would be nice, purely so I can extract myself from the mud rather than having to wait for someone else

Sounds like bull to me James. Get them to justify the increase, if (when) they can't and if they then won't reduce the price then tell them where to stick it. I found my insurance company suprisingly more willing to accept a modification when I told them I would be cancelling the policy because of it.

Bodywork is cheap and reasonably easy to repair or replace, all just being bolt-on aluminium panels. As long as your chassis is sound, and the bulkhead is straight then I would keep it

That's pretty much it yep. I was going to keep this un-published until I have completed my conversion, but I've made it public so you can read through it: http://www.retroanac...a-200tdi300tdi/ As far as I know, based on the knowledge I have gathered through looking at the parts and the history of this topic, that information is correct. There are still pics to be added etc once I go through the processes detailed.

Most of the wires are the same colours, which is quite handy. I don't know exactly how it is wired up behind the dash, but rather than each gauge piggybacking it's 12V feed and earth off the same wires, those wires are just moved to the new multi-plug where necessary. Just make sure the supplies that are required to be fused are so. The dash loom requires one 10A fused ignition-switched live, and two permanent 5A lives. As for what's in the big plug, if you look at this PDF file, it shows the layout of the loom: http://www.retroanac...g%20Diagram.pdf The large multiplug is on the left, and the connections below it are what need to connect to it. For example pin 8 of the multi-plug needs to be connected to your wire from the temp sender, and pin 5 to the one from your fuel sender. In fact the only others are the gauge lighting feed (pin 4), the speedo transducer feed (pin 10), and some switched and non-switched 12V supplies. Plus a few earths. Remember, if you choose to replace the multi-plug with another one, keep the wiring the same (ie. pin 1 in the new plug is the same wire as pin 1 in the old plug), that way you can still use the diagrams. Here is the pinout for the grey plug (as provided by Western, modified slightly by myself), should match my diagram above hopefully:

This is the pinout of the two multi-plugs on the LED warning light panel. Western made these up, not myself. Dash loom is YMG109280, but I don't know if they're still available. If they are they certainly won't be cheap. If you do decide to buy a new one, you may as well try and source a ROW-spec loom instead (this has the modification built-in to allow use of the 300Tdi temp sender). That is part number YMG109260. Extra pins for the speedo plugs can be sourced from VWP and are part no. 3-7210. Just to note, I am 99.999% sure on this, haven't actually done it yet but as far as I can tell they are the right ones. Transducer is YBE100530, there is also an M6 washer WA106041L and an o-ring seal 571665 used in installation of it. With the rev counter, the usual procedure is to get the engine to a known RPM (using a timing light on the crank pulley or similar) and then adjusting the rev counter until it reads the correct reading. I've never done it myself though I'm afraid, and it's a discussion for another topic really That's what I plan to do, although if you can source the counterpart grey plug from another Td5 vehicle or a Freelander or something then you could use that. Personally I am just going to replace the grey connector with another multi-plug connector pair.