Retroanaconda

His website says 6200rpm

Thanks mate, very helpful

I would either plate or replace the outrigger. It's your life potentially in a roll...and that hole may weaken it slightly. Not a risk I'd want to take if I'm perfectly honest.

As you are clearly not phased by distance, while you're in this country I would suggest a tour of pretty much all of the UK. There are plenty of National Parks and other wonderfully attractive areas, although obviously not on the scale you'll be used to. Should be reasonably easy to take in the UK show scene whilst touring too. Europe is big, and of course there are some pretty spectacular places around that too. The Fjords up north, the Alps down south etc. Be prepared for a big increase in fuel prices, petrol is currently around £1.06 per litre, that's about $6.55 per US gallon.

There is a way you can tow a trailer with a MAM of more than 750kgs with just a B license, but I think it depends on the trailer MAM being less than half of your vehicle's GVW etc. I can't recall the exact figure I'm afraid. A B+E is something I will hopefully be doing next year, gonna be expensive but cheaper than the hassle being pulled for it would cause.

No, don't worry I wasn't being serious. The last thing anyone wants is a car full of AFOs turning up and arresting you, or worse. Unfortunately in all reality there is very little one can do to stop someone if you catch them in the middle of doing something like this.

Doesn't blow the 30A fuse in my circuit, but then the actual fusing rating of that fuse will be something like 60A. Affects the voltmeter a bit though, I can tell it's on by the reading dropping on that

Okay, you need to obtain yourself a Td5 dash loom as seen attached to the gauges in this picture: Once you have this, everything will be easier. Now to answer your questions: Change my exisiting warning cluster wired for the Td5 plugs (Is there instructions?) - This is just a case of matching up the correct wires and connecting them to the existing feeds Add in wires for the speedo etc - You only need to add the 3-core wire from the transducer on the gearbox to the back of the dash, and make a modification to the dash loom you buy Use the Td5 fuel guage. (should work?) - Yes, should work connected straight to your existing sender Use the original 300Tdi temp guage (can I use the td5 one?) - The Td5 gauge is able to be used, pending a modification to the dash loom and using the later (green) 300Tdi temp sender (AMR1425) Wire a sidelight feed to the heater controls for illumination - The Td5 dash loom has this built-in (the bulbs labeled 1 and 5 on the picture above push into the binnacle) Install the Vdo tach out to the W terminal - A seperate issue, but yes that is how it would work. Will require fine-tuning with a timing light or similar. How many wires do I need to run down to the gearbox and is there a sender present in anything other than a td5 defender? - Just a 3-core wire to the transducer (which you will need to buy). One is the signal, and then there's a 12V supply (ignition switched) and a ground. The modification you need to do to the dash loom is fairly simple, the feed from the temp sender to the temp gauge needs to be re-routed via one of the speedo plugs. On the lower speedo plug (the one with less wires on it) it goes in from the sender on pin 5, and out to the gauge on pin 9. You will need extra pins for this, can be obtained from VWP, can get you the part number if you'd like. Hope that helps

I was always told to just blast it with a hose while it's running I have no idea if that is the correct way to do it though

Sorry to hear that. Evidently Puma bonnets are in demand. More people need to own guns, about the only thing these scum understand

I used the cigar lighter feed for my ignition-switched feed. The supply, I took along the chassis in some conduit, and into the battery box. Very easy to do Although I have now moved it to my aux fusebox, but the route is similar.

Galvanisation is a rust preventative measure, it won't stop it from rotting away...merely prolong the useful life of the metal. Road salt is a major contributor, a good reason to wash your chassis reguarly during winter. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanisation#Eventual_corrosion

Unfortunately, I'd imagine that would count as a chassis modification as well. One could argue a crossmember replacement doesn't count as a mod, as it's a new part like-for-like, but fabricating your own crossmember probably does I think

ESR266 - Callout 3 on this diagram?

Whoops, didn't realise you had already written something up. Well the more info the better I guess

Hello all, Since I've just changed all the bulbs in my Td5 gauges which are awaiting fitting (they were all blown, somehow), I thought I'd share with you the information on bulb types and the fitting procedure I used: http://www.retroanac...landrover/?p=77 For quick reference, the speedo bulbs are type 509T (twist), and the fuel/temp gauges and heater controls illumination use type 286 wedge bulbs. Both 12V/1.2W. Hope that helps.

Brill, thanks Ralph. I am looking to write up a full guide you see. This thread is great, but the information is spread across several years' worth of chatter and issues. Hopefully by the end I will have a single point of reference for people.

Right, this is aimed sort of at Ralph and others who are knowledgable with the specifics of this conversion. I have drawn up a wiring diagram for the upgrade, which shows the modification to the dashboard loom required to make it effectively ROW-spec and enable the 300Tdi temp sender to be used Wiring Diagram Could you have a browse of it and tell me if you see any glaring errors based upon your experience? I haven't put the wiring colour labels on yet, that's still being done. Just wanted to make sure I had all the wires in the right place before I started fiddling with aesthetics. For note, this is a plan for a base conversion. Doesn't involve using the alarm LED or low fuel light connections or anything like that. Simply passes the fuel and temp signals through the speedo as per the ROW-spec loom. Many thanks. Edit: Updated diagram to include speedo moulded plug and added wiring colours to the best of my knowledge.

Very swish...but one could buy a good few 'nice' normal gauges for that money. Might take up more space, but personally I think I'd prefer four VDOs to one of these.

It would reduce the amount of airflow generated by the ram-air effect yes, but the fan-powered performance would still be the same. Pics when it's done!

Interesting. From what I know of pond paint products, I was under the impression that they require a porous surface to adhere to (such as concrete, brickwork etc). So painting them onto metal (non-porous) would just end with it falling off Although I guess that where it's sandwiched between two mating faces that wouldn't be an issue. And that second one there does say it will adhere to steel. My fish shop sells a litre of black pond paint for £15 odd...if it's the same stuff (which I think, looking at that page, it is) then that eBay shop seems a bit more expensive.

I considered using a thin sheet of rubber cut to size. Pond liner would work well, about 1mm thick and can easily and accurately be cut. Might not be advisable for critical connections though, don't know how the rubber insert would affect the torque loadings of the joint.

Fair point. Might be able to use the 90 degree bend that's on the filter input currently, if not then a 3" 90 isn't hard to come by. Ta

Thanks to both of you, I will probably end up going this route, or something similar. My engine is a Defender-spec 200Tdi so the aircon mounts aren't tapped, but I should be able to sort out some sort of mounting in that area. Will, what is that plastic piece you have on the outlet of your airbox, the one that takes the air 90 degrees? Do you have a part number for it? Many thanks

Thanks JST, but if you mean this post: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=2394&view=findpost&p=30154 Then all the pics are missing