lo-fi

It's quite possible to buy a single phase input VFD that outputs three phase; there's one in that Eaton range. There are also versions - and actually more commonly - with 3 phase input, used heavily in industry for variable motor speed control.

That needs a big fat LIKE button

I'm about to set my Bridgeport up with one of these: https://inverterdrive.com/group/AC-Inverter-Drives-400V/Eaton-DE1-345D0FN-N20N/ Essentially a simple 3 phase VFD and not bank breaking (but from a decent name manufacturer, not a chinese ebay job). You supply control knobs, it corrals the angry pixies into doing the 3 phase dance.

A quill feed is a killer feature for a vertical mill, which I think is why Bridgeports are so popular for home shops. I literally just bought one myself as it came up locally at a steal of a price. What type of tinkering do you tend (or intend) to get up to?

Good call, but no special tools needed to pull the cover plate and have a nose. What I'd do: Pull the cover. Chock front wheels and raise one rear wheel enough to spin, put transfer case in neutral, take hand brake off and get a mate (or use your foot) to spin the wheel. Look for chunks missing from teeth on the ring gear, listen for rumbling or clicky sounds. Repeat with the other wheel. Use a pry bar and check the diff carrier isn't moving in its bearings and have a good look at the gears inside. If nothing obvious, pop a brew on, button it back up as Lightning suggests and see what happens next oil change. Might not be the worst idea to pull the half shafts and check them too, which is only six bolts a side and a couple of gaskets.

I've found it saves me a ton of time, grinding, swearing and wasted wire, gas and grinding wheels. Also useful for printing out drilling templates, which I stick on with spray glue, then centre punch through.

Prototyping stuff in 3D cad is a joy, isn't it! Looking forward to an engineering stream of consciousness

There's not really such a thing as a standard or common sender unit. It would a lot be easier if there were, but no... You're in for a few long nights trying to find a sensor with the right characters. Regarding the wiring: I've not seen anyone here using Swoosh. I'd ignore the colours and figure out what you've got from the vehicle wiring diagram. Going to look like Darth Vaders bathroom in there

You've got to. It's like flicking the trigger a few times when you pick up a drill...

A proper Land Rover! Good find with the brochure

I bought a £25 ebay ratchet crimper ages back which came with dies for just about everything automotive. Been a good investment. I think I'll be doing this mod myself too.

Something else to consider, other than cross ply giving poorer grip: old tyres are lethal. Rubber hardens with age and provides very little grip, so even if there's tons of tread they're often far more dangerous than bald tyres. If you can't dig a nail into it or it's shiny, don't use it.

Automotive stuff usually gets pushed to insane ratings to keep the size down. I really like the econoseals, though. More options if you want something that looks a little more Land Rover: https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/superseal-1-5-series-waterproof-connectors.html

What a dreadful website; no info listed at all! https://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/Waterproof_Connectors.html Perhaps this might be more helpful?

That's what the forum is all about

You'll get on top of it One tip I'd give, seeing as it looks like the bulkhead is in good condition: take the vent rubbers off and check for corrosion behind them, with a fresh lick of paint before fitting new. Same with the rubber strip between the windscreen and bulkhead. These seem to be points where water can trickle through and start rotting the inside of the upper bulkhead parts, so attending to them early can save a lot of headaches down the line.

It's got a glorious case of "farmers wing"! If you don't want to go full body colour, I'd reckon body colour rear panel with limestone roof would look nice. Just an opinion, of course

That engine actually looks like it's meant to be there! A very cool landy

Check that the tube in the chassis hasn't been eaten away by tinworm. Also check for cracks around the tube as it's not unheard of in that area. The only good option for a satisfactory repair (assuming the tube is at fault and it's not a badly made bush) is to have a new tube welded in, or if it's sound but simply worn slightly over-size, you may get away with fitting poly bushes as they don't rely on a tight tolerance interference fit. You won't get a shim in that'll last and won't do more harm, and welding the outer can of the bush in is a bodge of heroic proportions!

I know the feeling! I just bought a Bridgeport Mill My little Myford ML10 lathe is looking somewhat inadequate sat next to it. I'll grab scans of the drawings next time I'm in the workshop.

With stuff that's hazardous, but not necessarily immediately/obviously so, I'd rather err on the side of caution and encourage people to do likewise. I've met too many old boys with cautionary takes who've slowly harmed themselves with one thing or another, not realising at the time. Electrolysis is a fantastic process, though! Just to be clear, using only mild steel the only bi-product is essentially washing water with rust in. Safe for the garden (providing the plants don't object to iron oxide) or drain. If you let it settle, you can drain the water leaving the rusty sludge to scoop out of the bottom, though. I have two setups: one large tank and one small. I tend to hook the big one up to a DC welder, with the battery charger being quite adequate for the smaller one. I'd encourage anyone to give it a go, it's absolutely fantastic

Why not to use stainless detailed here: http://antique-engines.com/stainless-steel-electrodes.htm The by-products are classified as hazardous waste for a reason, so even if just for personal peace of mind rather than environmental reasons, I'd advise caution against it. Using stainless won't stop the electrodes getting furred up - the removed rust is still drawn to them - they just won't waste as quickly. Mild rebar is a very cheap source of electrode material and stainless is expensive, so I can't see how it makes much sense either way.

No worries I expect yours to be clean inside, it was more to illustrate how bad a diff can get and still drive. That one has been habitually bathed in mud with failed seals, so it was only going to end badly. I have a few series Salisburys in the back of the garage, one with far too much play in the gear mesh. I've never had it apart to investigate why though, so I'll be interested to see what you find.

Call Blanchards, if anyone is likely to have some it's them. Though as complete hitches are about fifty quid to pick up on ebay it may not be worth the price of parts even if you can find them. You can probably recoup that cost selling yours as individual parts too.

As a point of reference, this was still (miraculously) driving fine despite the front pinion bearing having totally collapsed: https://youtu.be/8RyXD-9V9nU If you look carefully, you'll see bits of smashed up roller in the stinking, oily mud It's a Rover type, but you get the idea. It was from a bodged five speed into 88" install where the rear prop ended up about 6" long, and had been heavily off-roaded with seemingly zero maintenance. I expect your clonk may be some accumulated wear in something, meaning the mesh isn't right and the gears are suffering. Quick job to pop the cover off on a salisbury and take a peek. A healthy one has about a degree or two of play between the tooth mesh back and forth on the pinion.