lo-fi

I used Discovery manifolds on mine, they hug the block quite well and exit at convenient points. Clearance with the chassis rails isn't normally an issue, though... Pics may help?

#TripleFacePalm I found the Waxstat to be the absolute best in terms of temp stability, followed a very close second by Gates. I have a nice VDO gauge in my 109, so temp variations really show up compared to the standard gauge. Waxstat used to be what you've get in a Land Rover genuine box...

You need to mod the passenger footwell. There's just not enough room otherwise, regardless of which manifold you choose. Shifting the engine to the right will give you more headaches with oil pump to diff clearance and suchlike.

Sadly, people keep buying those cheap parts... Eventually the supply of decent stuff dries up and the cheap garbage is all we'll be left with. It's quite worrying and seems particularly bad in land rover circles.

Waxstat or Gates seem to be about the best thermostats from my experience. As said already, 3 row is quite adequate in this climate on a moderately worked vehicle.

That's neat! Do you have any details on which Honda?

I'd guess K-seal or similar...

It sounds and looks very dry at the top end, and I'm pretty sure that's the source of your noise. Have you verified good oil flow to cam and rockers?

To play devils advocate... Is a leakdown test going to tell you much you don't already know or won't for sure if you've got it in pieces? Like I said before: whatever the fix ends up being, you'll end up removing the head anyway. You can probably have it done in the time it takes to rig up a proper leakdown

Just to add to what Monkie said... Yes it can be done in vehicle, but it's far easier to make a nice job in the warm on a bench (or even better an engine stand), especially if you've never done it before. There's no dark art: just be methodical, clean and follow the manual/specs carefully. The other advantage is you get to button everything back up before refitting to the the vehicle, so much less fiddling and swearing in the cold.

Granted it was doing a few revs, but well within the range of a tdi. The little Perkins turbo D I hated so much ran similarly with the same box, though I think by that stage I'd fitted an overdrive. How did you get on checking the meshing of the 3.54 diff and pinion once in the series axle case?

No, quite. Even my 2.25 would plod along at 60.

Ouch. Think you had a dodgy fill or water in the tank, or just unlucky?

It was everywhere outside too! The engine came from a disco that had been off roaded to destruction. The guy I bought it off said it was the heaviest thing he's ever had on a trailer, reckoned there was a ton or two of mud caked under the body - it was just packed in solid around anything that didn't move.

By-the-by: It's not just the 19J that suffers cracked pistons. An unlucky mate of mine had two 12J's in a row let go. The one in the vehicle originally had three pistons cracked; the "it's a low mileage minter, honest mate" replacement he obtained had suffered the same demise with all four. I suspect in the first instance it was timing or injector related as he could never get it to run right. The second one is anybody's guess. If you're reading inconsistent compression between cylinders, it's time to take the head off regardless. Whatever you might need to do to rectify it will require access to valves, pistons or the gasket itself, so grab a decent gasket kit, get spannering and hope for the best would be my approach here. From the video, my money would be on cracked piston, broken rings or a serious gasket failure cylinder to an oil passage.

Always learn something from your threads. Thanks for sharing

Look on the bright side: at least you don't have a Land Rover to break too

A common problem... Bigger the gob the better the job!

Oil Half an inch of mud...

Looks pretty good Try modifying the cranking pulsewidth table, give it a little more juice. IIRC, it's set up as a percentage of req_fuel against coolant temp.

You may find that it's actually the "cranking pulsewidth" table that you want to change. Or you may find that your req_fuel setting is off, and it's actually this that wants sorting along with your fuel table. The cranking pulsewidth is calculated from req_fuel, so if that's out so will the cranking values. Its quite common to have an engine running perfectly well with req_fuel completely out of whack with correspondingly whacky figures in the fuel table to compensate. Post your fuel table and we'll soon be able to tell if I'm on the right lines

If they're definitely the same injectors? Otherwise you'll need a full set of 8 that match. Be careful as while they might look physically the same and fit, they may not behave the same as what you already have, which means mixing and matching isn't an option.

Swap them round, if the lean cylinder swaps to the location with the suspect injector you've found your problem. They click quite loudly when working too, so use a piece of pipe from your ear to close to the suspect injector and listen. Doesn't mean it's flowing, but clicking means the solenoid is moving.

Double post..

No, silly: it generates power from the "free" energy created by the intake air. This is fed back in via the lighter socket making enough power to turn the alternator into a motor. Over 3000 rpm it'll feel like VTEC just kicked in, yo!! Get a two way lighter socket adaptor and enjoy it supercharging the lighter socket superchip too...