lo-fi

Is it supposed to be bent like that (to clear the large tyres, presumably)? I'd hope not, it would be as much of a stupid idea as those speed holes, but you never know... The bend just looks far too deliberate..

Finish some Land Rover projects > sell them. Don't ever buy another Land Rover, live happily ever after

Ah, a really early one! Very nice. If I was into camping more often than when I absolutely have to, I'd probably end up doing something similar for my sankey flatbed.

Cute! The top is really tidy. By the way, if you can find a hitch with a hydraulic damper from a very late narrow track, it's worth swapping. It tows much more smoothly than the spring loaded one.

You might be surprised how much of a difference tightening the bushes incorrectly will have. As said, you'll also wreck the bushes very quickly unless the bolts are tightened with the vehicle at ride height. New dampers can take seem very firm too and sometimes take time to settle. One other thing worth mentioning: never fully tighten safety critical bolts with an impact gun. It's very easy in some situations for an impact gun to "bounce" giving the illusion its tightened. Its also all too easy to over tighten a fastener, so as a rule best avoided unless you're simply using it to whizz a bolt down using the lightest setting, then finish with the proper tool and torque setting.

Back up now. Phew!

Can't hurt, especially if potentially suspect oiling of cylinder 4 lobes.

Much fun! Close the anvils in small enough to get on the bore, tighten the end to lock them. Insert into bore, get as central as you can, loosen the end to let them spring out. "feel" for the centre, get as a straight as you can, tighten again. You should feel slight resistance as you rock in the bore in the same plane as the anvils when you've got it centred and coaxial. If you hit a spot where there's no resistance, do it again. Remove by carefully rocking the handle over and measure very carefully with a micrometer. I tend to tighten gently when I've got it central, but a few degrees off axis, then drag it through parallel with the bore, so it self centres with the resistance and gets closed the final amount as it runs through. If in any doubt, watch some of the earlier Abom79 videos where he's doing internal boring. Edit: Ninja'd by Ross, but we're both on the same track

I'd put money on it, then. Easy job, just requires a beefy soldering iron sometimes. Don't forget to clean up the commutator too

It's likely brushes worn to nothing and not making contact. Pop them out and measure up, you'll find a new set fairly easily.

Cool! I might start making "Gremlin Detectors"...

I called them a few months back querying bulkhead parts and all seemed fine. Although interestingly, their partner site pegasus bulkheads now redirects to Terrain Tech... Hopefully it's just an IT issue as I really need to get around to ordering some parts from them!

Looks like there's a crack that runs right from the point of the V through it and out the side (bottom in the pic). Stand the piston up and put some petrol in the V, it'll soon confirm. How do the others look?

https://www.screwfix.com/p/rothenberger-butane-gas-micro-soldering-torch-kit/36233 I have one of those. Fair packs a punch. Also, these are amazing: https://www.amazon.co.uk/GoBuying-Programmable-Pocket-Size-Soldering-Acceleration/dp/B074M6ZMLB Can run off a battery. Car, power tool or otherwise. 12-24V

If that fails, it's back to basics... Check you got the coil polarity and connections correct. Test the coil resistances. Specs will be available in the book or from the manufacturer. Disconnect the coil from the dizzy, check that the contact breakers do indeed break and make connection as the dizzy is spun. Connect the meter from B- to the wire that usually goes to the coil and run it in continuity mode may be easiest understood. It should read a dead short when the points are closed and infinite once opened. Spin the engine over by hand for this test. Check continuity on the master connection on the cap. I'm sure it's something simple!

You've not got enough heat. Needs quite an iron to get those posts and thick copper braid hot enough. The soldering iron attachments for small butane torches are superb here. You can get complete kits in most DIY places for about £20

Hmm. Could you post a pic of what you're trying to do?

Anywhere that sells washing machine/domestic appliance spares will stock brushes. They won't have anything for a landy starter, but will have something you can knock down to size with abrasive paper on a flat surface, if nothing that's a direct fit. I've done this many times when in a similar jam!

Technically, gongs, bells, sirens or multi tone things are failable. I think you'd get away with the klaxon. https://www.motester.co.uk/mot-test-of-horn/ Though there is a "harsh or grating" rule, which is rather subjective.

I have this exact thing. It makes a truly comical cartoon AROOOOOOOOGA sound. It gets wired into somebody's landy when they're not looking occasionally, just for tits and pickles. You won't regret it.

Agreed it's disappointing having to drill it, but it's not pointless. Just protect it well where you've had to drill it. Or get them dunked again, post drilling if it's a massive concern? A second galv layer certainly won't hurt. As an aside, anybody ever tried spot "soldering" zinc onto steel?

You can'ne break the laws of physics. No matter which type of electric heater or way you try driving it, you simply can't get enough amps out of a 12V electrical system to get the wattage required for worthwhile output. No ifs, buts, or maybes. Heated seats?

The problem with the weak spring theory is it should give reasonably consistent slipping. This is absolutely not the case.

Pics or it didn't happen! Got to see that one, definitely need some details!

An ACR flowed head, megasquirt running spark and fuel and decent exhaust will likely be the sweet spot. Unless you want to go down a massive rabbit hole doing a multi point injection setup, I'd suggest looking at a single point injection throttle body. It fits to the manifold like a carb and contains throttle plate, injector, throttle position sensor, temp sensor and injector. I have a mate running that exact setup on an Essex V6 (I helped him tune it) and gets low 30's mpg on a long run. Multi point injection is better when set up well, but it's a lot of work to get it there on an engine that doesn't have a factory setup.