lo-fi

I'm running AT2'S in the same size on my 109 and I've been really happy with them. They tended to get clogged in heavy mud when I went on a play day, but about what you'd expect from an AT. Wet grass, snow, slippery roads, deep puddles at speed and gravel I've had no complaints at all, and they're inaudible under the V8.

@Cornish Rattler had one rebuilt recently, which looked like a nice job. I can't remember where though, so hopefully he'll be along and can tell us

Cheers Arjan I think Troll Hunter means pics hosted on the forum so they can't disappear when a third party host decides to go all photobucket on us... Yes, I never got around to that. Can I actually do it in this post within the 20MB limit, though? Or is there a better way to upload a bunch of photos for me to relink to?

Good call. My lathe motor used to make that kind of noise with the bodged reverse switch it came with. This consisted of two rocker switches ganged together by a glued on piece of plastic. The plastic fell off, leaving the switches to be moved independently. Well you've got to see what happens, right? Janky, erratic running is what happens. I've since replaced with a proper (vintage) drum contactor, for which I've still got the wiring diagram if it'll help?

Hard to tell from such a short clip, but sounds like one set of windings is not properly energised. Double check your wiring?

When all you have us a McGovern, everything looks like a Discovery... /Mic drop

ISO quality accreditation = how to make carp consistently. I've upset many an auditor...

It's a clever design. I was more wondering about what the oil pump may or may not have been doing while you were stopping/failing to start/finally getting going. Interested to see how it behaves with the other rear casing. Fingers crossed!

Did you have the (main) clutch engaged when letting the revs drop to idle at the give way? If so, it feeds into my theory about an intermittent blockage needing oil flow to drop to reset. If that is the case, it's either a foreign object (casting flash or core remnant, perhaps) or the solenoid is somehow randomly dropping in against its return spring when oil flow drops to zero as you come to a stop, but I think the latter unlikely.

A few more thoughts... Is the surface it's running on smooth and ridge free? A rough, grooved surface can quickly destroy a brand new seal. Have you seated it in the correct position? I can't remember what design that one is, but occasionally it's possible to seat a seal way too far in as there's no stop and you're supposed to use a special press tool with a raised ridge and a stop to seat it. I think there's a keyway slot in the crank nose? Been a while since I had one apart. Are there any burrs or sharp edges? Is the crank straight? What brand seal are you using?

Quick follow up to this, two years on: The rebuilt box is going strong. Its had a couple of oil changes with no nasties appearing and hasn't put a tooth wrong.

Incorrect spring pressure wouldn't create an intermittent fault; you'd get a consistent amount of slipping all the time when disengaged. Looking up how it operates: when engaged, the solenoid blocks a return from the pump allowing it to build pressure against the relief valve and the pistons to overcome the spring pressure. This means the return path is open when disengaged, with the pump simply circulating oil. Sensible as its not then using power. Western has obviously had it apart and scrupulously cleaned it, but is the return accessible enough that you can verify its not got a piece of casting flash or something stupid like that isn't partially blocking it and acting like the solenoid? Significant facts here: problem occurs when cold: Thick oil finds it harder to pass said blockage. Problem occurs after coming to a stop when warm: The pump - being driven by the gearbox output - doesn't produce any flow when the vehicle is stopped. This allows this theoretical piece of blockage to move from a position where it was previously passing oil to one where it doesn't, until such a point as flow drops off again or overcomes it. Either that or somehow the solenoid is getting actuated when it shouldn't?

Ah, thanks. In which case I'd bet on that too. Maybe a hairline crack as Bowie suggests, a little porosity right in the wrong place, or even a machining error. I can't see what else could cause loss of drive, all other things being equal. There must be a pressure relief valve from the pump? Is oil pressure needed for anything other than actuation? I'm thinking take the entire hydraulic circuit out of the equation by removing the relief valve spring or outer pump gear (if practical). If it drives fine, you know there's no mechanical fault and the circuit is pressurising when it shouldn't.

I was just thinking that as you've changed everything else, the housing is looking like it might be worthy of scrutiny. If I understand operation correctly, springs hold the cone clutch disengaged, then to engage it there's a solenoid that passes oil from the pump via a filter to those two pistons, forcing the cone into engagement, which transmits drive via the epicyclic gears? What I can't figure out is what locks input to output when the cone clutch is disengaged? You mentioned a brake ring in the first post, but I can't see how that's actuated and assume that's something to do with it?

Have you checked that the valve bores are true, round and parallel too?

Fueling and timing make a big difference to power. You'll find that as your tune improves, your idle speed will increase and you'll need to trim it down again with the bypass screw. The stop should be set so it just keeps the butterfly from resting against the inside of the throttle body itself. 600 rpm seems a reasonable setting to shoot for with the idle valve fully closed. Get that all firmly sorted before you play with the ICV and it'll probably make more sense. I suspect you'll need to modify your step curve quite a bit to match your setup.

True. Surely it should slowly leak EP90 flavoured caramel sauce down the tree?

I've only got photos to judge by, but silicone elbows are available that will clear. The inlet and outlet will end up running quite close, but that actually makes finding a route for them easier; just joggle apart further forward to meet whichever IC you go with. As Steve says, the turbo compressor housing can be rotated, but this invariably requires holes being redrilled for the wastegate attachment. Grab a couple of silicone hoses and a piece of pipe and have a play; I think you'll find it packages nicely.

No chopping needed to IC or engine... Put 90 degree hoses on both the turbo and manifold, pointing forwards. Mount the IC at the front somewhere (find one with convenient port layout for your setup and copy the tdi setup), pipe to and from it with ali tube and a few more rubber elbows. Except for mounting the IC which might require a few brackets making and a few holes drilling, it's literally a bolt up job. EDIT: found the reason the compression is so high. They left it the same as the NA 12j the 19j is based on. Absurd, but typical.

Get an adaptor plate made up? Think wheel spacer... I reckon 1/2 - 3/4" thick should do it. It's simple enough, and could easily be made in a home shop if you have access to a lathe and pillar drill, or would be a cheap job at any local engineering firm for cash.

Absolutely no reason you can't fit an intercooler with the standard manifold. The only part I see as over stressed on the 19j is thermally. There's an excellent passage in the Allen Allard turbo book which has some data on mechanical and thermal stress in a turbo engine. It makes interesting reading, I'll see if I can find the book in my collection. The salient point was that max cylinder pressures are not that much higher in a turbo setup; the gains are made having average cylinder pressure higher throughout the stroke. There is, however, a significant amount more heat to be managed, which can be mitigated a great deal with an IC in this case. Why they left the compression ratio so high (21:1 - later tdi engines being 19.5:1) is anybody guess, though! This could also be dealt with, but not so easily and cheaply as fitting an intercooler.

Looks like at least one piston has cracked right through from side to side. The sort of thing that can cause that ticking, so take them out to check it's not going right through as well. Things will only get worse! The head doesn't look bad, though. I've often wondered if the worst failing of that engine is actually the omission of an intercooler. Given that pistons cracking is most likely caused by excessive heat - they run relatively high compression ratio for a turbo diesel - and the intake charge is comparatively hot without an intercooler, it's something of the perfect storm for cracked pistons and localised head cracks. There's no disadvantage to running an intercooler, so if you're going to rebuild the 19j, you might as well and reap the benefits.

No, that's absolutely normal if you read through the rebuild manual, it even mentions the unused third position somewhere. Must be able to get a second had lever from something?

There are indeed three detents, only two of which (middle and one outer) are selectable with the control lever properly set up.

One thing I've learned through much messing with low volt DC motors: size does matter. Ignore the marketing garbage, if it draws < 15 amps at 12v (180W), it's not going to do very much of anything. If wattage or amperage aren't quoted, have a good look at motor size. The little chinesium pancake things that end up in just about everything are a total waste of metal. The suzuki fans looks very promising. Constructing a snail housing might be the challenge there.