lo-fi

The other possibility rather than an ignition issue is a poorly injector or injector wiring fault on number 7. The popping will be it running very, very lean. As Bowie said, the rest have been running extremely rich. FFR: This is a great example of why EGO correction and/or autotune should only be used once you're sure everything is working correctly, and the lambda reading itself should be questioned until you've proved you've not got something skewing it. Looks like you're homing in on the problem, though

That's a nice idea! All I need now is another drum and a stainless steel sink... I'll post results once we've run a good few loads through it. The bits of loco ripe for treatment are covered in the stockiest goo imaginable... A nasty mix of old oil, ash and soot mixed with brake dust, which in this case is cast iron. Its the consistency of window putty. Truly horrible.

My reasoning was that I couldn't just flush the outlet down the drain, so mains inlet didn't make a lot of sense. And you're right: neat degreaser this way, though it is dilute-able

We tried just gravity feeding it, but it needs a bit more pressure than that. Not much, it only needs the valve closed a little for it to be happy. I'd expect diesel to kill one in short order, it'll break down seals not designed for it quite quickly. Screwfix No Nonsense degreaser seems to be OK (and super cheap), and if you're doing only ferrous parts you could pop a dishwasher tab in which will really get things moving.

Ingredients: 1 x dishwasher. The mechanical kind... 1 x large container. 1 x pump. Almost anything designed for water will do. Assorted plumbing fittings. Method: Plumb tank into pump, pump to tee going to dishwasher and back to tank via ball valve. Dishwasher outlet back to tank. Fill tank with cheap degreaser. Fill dishwasher with dirty parts. Press go. Most dishwashers will check for pressure on the inlet periodically, so the pressure may need to be varied with the ball valve. It works like a charm, even removing paint that gets softened in the heat. We've got one more thing to add, which is a small reservoir for filter wool in the return paths VID_20191204_180804.mp4

I fitted a defender heater to my 109. It's pretty good.

I found that finding one was not easy... and ended up stumping up for the Ashcroft kit. You may have better luck, especially if you can wait for one to appear.

The diffs aren't hard to swap. Getting the mesh correct is harder as swapping shims isn't a two minute job. Also, experience from a few members suggests it's not a pleasant drive after conversion and tends to tip the series box over the edge with the extra resistance. An overdrive is a far better option IMHO.

Electrolyte optional...

Pistons and rods will come up through the bore, not down. No need to remove the crank. You'll need to remove the sump to get the caps off the con rods, of course, but it can all be done in situ. At TDC, with everything healthy, you shouldn't be able to move the pistons up or down any perceptible amount. In-spec clearances for wrist pins and big end bearings are literally a few thousandths of an inch. If you're worried about getting stuck in, purchase a dead lawn mower engine for a couple of quid and play around tearing it down and reassembling. It's the same thing, just smaller, and everything is done essentially the same way. If you can remove and reinstall a piston successfully on an old Briggs block, you can do a 12J. Don't be afraid of it: it's nuts and bolts the same as everything else

I have access to a stock of old Land Rover boat anchors. I'll see what I can dig up for you

May I humbly suggest: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F264297665510 You can get them any length. Or if you want a "bus" type arrangement, earthing blocks work well if suitably mounted. Crimps are fine IF you get quality terminals, use a decent tool and follow guidance on what gauge of wire fits in which terminal. You should be able to hold the terminal and pull the wire pretty darn hard without it coming out. All crimps are not created equal!

You need to hook it up to a pc and run the log viewer. Catch a good set of data where it's misbehaving. I'd suspect: resetting issue caused by power supply issue, interference or crank trigger not positioned correctly/out of spec/damaged or incorrect wiring. All of this will be visible in the logs (you can save and post here if you're unsure what you're looking at), but you're very unlikely to see just staring at the dials in TunerStudio or randomly disconnecting stuff. When it's logged and graphed, it's easy to spot what's going wrong.

Not a waste of time if you enjoyed it!!

I'd not expect hydraulic damage to extend much to the valve train - it's not the same as a piston hitting a valve. Gasket, rods, rings, pistons potentially... Hopefully you've got away with a blown gasket and some displaced hotpots, all of which are easily sorted.

Definitely more ads than there used to be. @Shackleton, do you get control over how many ads get placed on a monetised video? I've stopped watching a few channels because they seem to have far more ads on their videos than others. Mustie1's videos, for example, I found to be totally chocked full and I wasn't prepared to slog through them. Most other channels I follow don't seem so bad.

Impact driver worth a go if you have one. New fasteners will be easy enough to get from a local bolt supplier, or somewhere like Namrick online but you'll have to figure out what thread. Easier if you have a local place and can take one in to.

That looks quite crispy! They're likely caught up in alloy corrosion in the end housings. Freeing that up is going to be quite the struggle and probably destructive, but a few things to try: You're unlikely to get the torque required with a flat head screwdriver, so grab the bolt heads with a good pair of vise grips and rock back and forth. You don't want to just wrench them counter clockwise, you want to work either direction to start moving the penetrant oil into the corrosion. If you really can't get them moving, you'll have to cut the bolt heads off and possibly partially drill them out. Don't go too crazy with heat or you'll burn up the brush holder inside, but try warming the alloy housing where the bolts go through. At least with this kind of job you've got nothing to lose and will probably learn something in the process. Good luck

Well done! Wastegate and linkage itself is non-serviceable, but check that the linkage is free to rotate, that it's not rattling round in the hole, and most importantly that there are no major cracks in the housing around the wastegate hole.

They're not usually that difficult to budge... Post a pic so we can see what type you have? +1 for Plusgas as a penetrating oil, it's excellent stuff.

Put it in the oven at 100C for an hour on a baking tray you really don't care about. I've taken many a turbo apart; you've got pretty much no chance without a good bit of heat. May require some extra heat on the snail housing even so. Just don't let the Mrs catch you/buy her a new baking tray ahead of the even! Don't get it too hot either, or you'll stink the house out with burning oil.

By screws, you don't mean the ones in the side, do you? The ones you want are the bolts/bits on the ends. The machine screws in the sides hold the stators in, and you really don't want to be messing with them.

Nice work. What had happened to it?

Roamerdrive got into bed with Britpart. Purveyors of exquisitely dreadful bearings. No doubt pressure to cut cost and corners led to the bearings being an easy target for bringing distributor cost down/profit up. A shame as its technically a much better unit than the Fairey, production issues aside.

Check that the adjuster pawls are actually retracting and they're not caught up or rotated incorrectly inside their housing. Also check that it's free to move in the backplate. It's really good practice to remove and strip the adjuster assembly when renewing shoes - it usually needs it. I've been caught out with this one before!