lo-fi

Swirl pot in the return line is a great idea! I like your thinking. What tank did you use for the diesel and how do you access it to fill? Sorry for the small thread hijack Gazzar! Hopefully useful info/discussion for you too.

If it's totally jammed this is likely the pin in the pedal housing being rusted solid. Nobody every lubricates them and its quite common to be jammed up with rust after extended periods not used. Squirt some penetrating oil inside at the pin, give it a few hours and try persuading the pedal to move. A hydraulic fault or seizure at the slave end would still give a little movement in the pedal as there's always room for "spring" in the hydraulic lines and linkages. A little gentle heat aimed at the pin from either side can help too. Plumbers torch is ideal.

Ah sorry, its diesel! The petrol models seem harder to find cheaply second hand, I guess they're much less common. I've only got this one because it got removed to make room for a clutch booster on my mates old D2. I've been wanting to do something like this myself, but my 109 is petrol. Torn between a second tank with diesel and the space that takes up (plus filling considerations) or shelling out for a petrol model. I'd like to run the circuit to the heater with an auxiliary matrix and have a couple of valves that can isolate it from or join it to the engine coolant circuit so it can be used as a straight cabin heater without heating the block, or to preheat too. Regarding fueling... You're going efi, aren't you? If so you're pretty much going to have to have a separate supply line, I think. I doubt the dosing pump will take kindly to high pressure at the inlet, and the return won't be suitable to tee into. If you were going external, teeing into the inlet side of the pump would be fine.

I have a webasto coolant heater from a TD5 D2 you're welcome to play about with? It may be missing the fuel pump though; I could neither find it on the vehicle or confirm that it's internal to the unit with a brief Google. It does have the coolant circulation pump built in and present.

There's often a balance weight on crank dampers - the need for this is even mentioned on the wikipedia page. Is this missing on the one you transferred? It's like a mini wheel balance weight. I find it hard to believe it could be enough to snap a crank, though. Anything obvious on close inspection of the flywheel? They're often balanced with holes drilled so nothing to fly off an affect the balance. Cracked or warped? If it were warped or running out of true axially due to a crack you'd not feel any radial vibrations, but it would stress the crank quite seriously. Edit: That looks like a casting to me too. Forged for comparison: https://shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=112689

A brass punch is my normal go-to - never had one chip. For £15 the kit does sound like a worthy investment, though.

Yep, somebody will love it. Either to finish putting it back together as is and enjoy it, or start sourcing the "correct" 2a bits and get all rivet counter - I suspect the former. Either way it would be a shame to break a solid series and it's far less hassle for you!

I used the usual argoshield co2/argon mix for mig, which seemed OK, or certainly acceptable for an exhaust. The same with TIG.... Not so much

I've made several with a mig welder and stainless tubes, bends, clamps and suchlike from here: https://exhaustpartsuk.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=88 Get yourself some stainless mig wire too. It'll want more power than mild, and you'll need to travel faster to avoid blowing holes, but it's quite possible to get some really nice beads on butt welds with a bit of practice.

That'll buff out. Bit of WD40 and some wire wool...

Poor old girl. She'll be better for having fresh bearings that aren't lubricated with mud! I suspect it's the clip that holds the splined collar axially. Good pics here: https://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-land-rovers/252161-selectro-freewheel-hub-assembly.html

I replaced the unknown one on my V8 with a Gates one. Gates stuff is usually really good, but three months on she now takes ages to warm up if moving and the temp hunts. I've just bought genuine which is marked as Waxstat. I'll change shortly and report back.

https://www.lrukforums.com/threads/selectro-free-wheel-hubs-dont-work.104760/ That thread covers the same problem, removal and has the instructions attached as pdf. Pull the split pin and castle nut and they'll come straight off.

Nice, sounds like it's the hubs. Double check what half shafts you've got before buying anything. Should be 24 spline rather than 10, but you never know if it's been swapped out by a previous owner. Drive flanges are available as pairs, felts etc. are all available. Castle nuts and washers can be re-used unless they've been frackulated - might save a few pennies. Post some pics of the hubs if you get stuck removing. Glad you found the YouTube helpful!

Quick video to help you out:

OK, so the problem is definitely with the axle not the gearbox. Yes, one broken or not properly engaging FWH will cause those symptoms. As will a broken half shaft. Next steps: Remove the FWHs. It should be pretty obvious if they're seized or broken. Rotate the end of a half shaft. The other end should rotate the opposite way or the prop flange should rotate. If not, you've likely got a broken half shaft or UJ. Before getting too far in with anything else, have a look at the hubs though - they're the most likely culprit.

Also my favoured supplier. No blue boxes! I'd be gutted if they have shut up shop.

Yep. Bowie69's steps detailed above will help diagnose exactly what's wrong. As Fridge said, it may well just be a FWH that's not engaged properly. They're usually pushed into engagement with spring pressure so that the splines or teeth mesh when they first line up. Otherwise you'd be having to faff rolling back and forward or turning the prop to get everything to line up as you turn the knob. This does mean that if they are partially seized inside, the spring might not be enough to push into full engagement even if they feel like they're positively clicked into 4wd mode. Because of the differential, either one failing will lead to loss of drive. Good luck and thanks for reporting back for future readers

As said above, if the prop is spinning and its going nowhere you have a problem in the axle not the transfer box. This may well be causing the noise. Broken diff, broken half shaft or broken FWH are what you're looking for. I'd start with the hubs, though.

Cheers I love these old machines, I have a 4 stroke too. I found this one didn't want to go having been sat since the summer, but just wanted the corrosion cleared off the points and away she went. I think they suffer from the points only closing during a very small part of crank rotation, so chances are they'll always stop open and furr up. I have a feeling dirty points (and decaying coils) are the cause of many words of rage over the years! Was a fun little project.

Way off topic and posted entirely for topical amusement. Hope it's not too far left field. I give you... The Oxford Allen snow plough! I believe they sold one for it, or somebody used to make one. Either way, it makes short work of keeping the drive passable for 2wd euroboxes. Fabricobbling something up for the 109 seemed like overkill. Stay safe! VID-20190201-WA0043.mp4

I'd hazard a guess that something has gone awry with the interlock spools. I believe that's something you can look at without removing the box. Hopefully somebody with direct experience will chime in and confirm, though. Related problem talked about here:

Why not choose an in tank pump that fits through t'hole, then cut and shut the series sender top onto it? Pipe cut then braze would leave no swarf inside and make a solid joint. Might just need a little adaptor turned up. Or there are aftermarket pumps that take an AN fitting that might suit. Again, braze an adaptor on the series sender.

She's lovely! Exactly the spec as my late 2a that's in pieces fixing the lack of love it was given for the past twenty years. Great to see a leafer stretching it's legs properly, especially a six pot. As Arjan says: more pics and write up please!

Yep, the hole in the middle of the input gear runs right through so the splines are accessible from either side. You'll just need a slightly longer input shaft, but as you're doing a divorced setup that won't be a problem.