lo-fi

What are the symptoms when it cuts out? Lumpy? slow? rich/black smoke? Suddenly stops? I'd be taking a good look at the ignition system before moving on to fuel.

Just out of curiosity, how are you getting on with it?

Yes. I suspect you'll find them way out of spec. The springs must be in the correct holes. You won't stretch the bottom spring over with the shoes in place, you'll have to use the method either me or Gazza suggested.

Think about it methodically before firing the parts cannon at it.... It boils down to the rear taking more fluid (one way or another) than the master cylinder is designed for. I think (correct me if I'm wrong), "the master you've got now is designed for a disk front, drum rear? Are you 100% certain the drums are in spec? It's quite possible to get the adjusters feeling like they're tight, but there being a long way to go until it's actually putting much braking effort in with the pedal, particularly if the drums are worn. If you've "pumped up" the brakes with a second movement of the pedal, if you let off, then immediately reapply the brakes, what happens? Do you get a firm pedal straight away, or do you have to pump again? If you bleed until you're confident there's no air in the rear, do you find air in the system if you bleed again after a drive?

Here you go: Apologies for the poor lighting and production quality. Hopefully you get the idea

Here's the easy way. Put the cylinders on the back plates. On the bench, assemble the bottom spring in the shoes. Angle the slots in the cylinders slightly so you can place the tops of the shoes in them without locating the bottoms. Place the bottom of one shoe in the bracket. Put the top spring in one shoe, lever it over and onto the hole on the other. Using a lever (large, long screwdriver or similar will do), lever the bottom of the remaining shoe against the spring and you'll be able to locate it in the bottom carrying bracket. You can place the end of the lever against the hub and push against a flat portion of the curved part of the shoe that the friction material is bonded to. Job done, no bruised knuckles or swearing required

The bottom arm should be straight ahead, the top offset a spline so the angle between is less than 90. The BGB gives lengths that the arms should be set to, which is usually enough to get everything else started. I can probably scan a page or two if you need.

Similar to this: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F253756291467

Solid state all the way. I've got one I believe I got from ebay, its been great. Its just a low dropout voltage reg in a nice little potted box with three wires coming out.

I can't help much with the parts, but would love some detailed pics if you've got it in pieces please Red hylomar was thinner and used for head gaskets and suchlike, I think. Blue is a good general jointing stuff. The holes in the washer are probably there to ensure both sides get oil, and it'll be precision ground rather than stamped I'd imagine.

Like Quagmire, I used them years ago. They seem active on ebay, maybe send them a message there? Similarly, I just picked the bits up as I went. I don't believe there were any carb 3.9's so you must have pretty much everything you need already, bar ignition and trigger wheel Happy soldering!

If that bit is that crispy, I'd take a really good, long hard look over the rest in that area. If it not full of holes, how much metal is actually there and is it worth patching just that bit? New crossmember with dumb irons isn't bank breaking and not much more work than replacing that rotten part anyway. Might be the best long term option if she's a keeper.

Handy! There used to be a "what you hear" recording input in Windows, but they took that away. We're all thieving pirates, you know!

The cheat way to do that would be to buy a 3.5mm jack to jack cable, plug it from the line out or headphones socket, back into the line in. Set it to play, record with Audacity or similar. They can put all the stupid digital hurdles they want in the way, but no blocking good old analog

When it dies, does it suddenly cut out, or are there some symptoms heading up to that? Does the exhaust note change, surge or hunt etc? Given all the stuff you've changed, I'd say maybe an air leak that gets worse as something heats up. Have you put a timing light on it and left running to check it's still sparking when it dies too?

Just don't do what my mates dad did many years who when servicing his Cavalier: decided to "hoover out" the carb. Needless to say, the carb did what it was designed to do and atomised a load of fuel, which promptly exploded when hitting the arcing motor. Most amusing, but blew the hoover to pieces and fresh trousers were needed all round. I know it's diesel, but I'm sure oil goes up just as well I can't stress outlet enough! Lol.

I traced a broken intercooler hose by plumbing the outlet of the hoover into the end that fits on the turbo outlet and feeling for leaks. Found a crack that was self sealing when not under pressure. The girlfriend wasn't happy, but no damage to hoover and problem solved.

I found that adding a cooler stopped the oil pressure dropping at lower revs when hot, having originally run without one. Not enough to set the light off, but worryingly low on the gauge. The oil cooler sorted it right out. But I guess you're not going to be using it like a tractor and towing a harrow over deep sand in a manège at 5mph....

Hello and welcome to the forum! Yep, the decimal point disappears apparently: https://www.lrukforums.com/threads/how-many-digits.154743/ Do please post a build thread with some pics, we don't get many 101 builds! Ian

I have a friend who makes lovely stuff out of canvas, I'll PM you some details if you like? He made me a cover for my sankey last week out of an army surplus tent that was half torn to pieces. Has all the tools for doing the eyelets etc.

I've got a set of springs just like that with the kinks in all four. There's no way they buckled like that perfectly symmetrically on their own. It's likely a design feature to keep the leafs apart, I suspect.

Well done, it's a........ shed?

I've done just that on my serp engine. Slightly different cover as it's from a disco with a dizzy, but the same pump. Seems to work fine, I get >40 psi hot or cold. My setup runs a remote filter with an oil cooler plumbed in the circuit after the filter and original oil cooler ports blanked. I did try running with an oil cooler on the original lines just to see what would happen, but it made no difference to oil pressure.

Run a quote on national pallet: https://www.nationalpallets.co.uk/ They have an excellent explanation of how they price. Full, half or quarter. Each have their own height and weight limits, but the size of the actual pallet is the same in every case. May vary with other companies, but should give you an idea. I've shipped quite a few engines and boxes on a half pallet. Tends to cost about £65 regardless where its from, which is frankly a bargain! For strapping stuff down, some luggage/roof rack ratchet strap sets you can buy in hardware stores are perfect. No need for the hefty haulier type you'd see on a lorry. They tend to want all fluids drained, by the way. Hope that helps

I have jet washed blocks before. A mate of mine even spent an evening in the bath with a pair of V6 heads, but he's a special kind of loony nature thankfully rarely provides. The critical thing is to make sure you can dry it quickly after, so plenty of towels, blue roll and water dispersant ready to go. Blow out oil galleries with air too. Ebay up some cheap parts cleaning solution, it works pretty well. For extra zing, dishwasher tabs are amazing, but not on anything ali, bronze or copper; it will eat them slowly. Having said all that, most engine rebuilders have giant engine washers with fancy chemicals and don't charge much for a wash and blow dry.