lo-fi

Look at the difference in advance between 85 and 90, then add that to the figures for 90 should get you in the ballpark

Fair comment, but if it gets to 250C where most solder melts you've probably got bigger problems... A fair few old starters I've tinkered with do have solder joints from factory, but spot welding is probably easier and more reliable for manufacture.

Clip the old braids off just after where they're spot welded, leaving a few mm. Solder the end of the braids on the new brushes to the ends you've left on the contacts and call it job done It'll need a hefty soldering iron and plenty of flux, though.

Possible the bearing track wasn't quite seated and has settled after having weight on it. Similarly the railco if its been changed - they're horrid things to press in. Did the railco thrust washer go back in too?

I quite like it! Registration bodgery and price aside...

That makes sense; I'd not really thought about it that way. I'm guessing they're using aero style cold worked alloy rivets, though? I think what we can see on that chassis are old school hot rivets!

Riveted construction is interesting! Probably more reliable than welding in a low skill environment. Brilliant project, I'll be looking forward to updates.

My R-Tech helmet is excellent, particularly for the £80 £65 price tag. Edit: pretty sure it's one of these: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F172406601716

I've never seen many complete kits come up when I've been looking, but the adaptor rings used to appear on ebay. Seemed like people would forget about the other bits, but good hunting

RAC got me home with a dead 109 and sankey. A trailer with a normal hitch, they'd tow apparently. In my case with the nato hitch they sent a truck big enough to put landy and trailer on. No fuss, just a bit of a wait while they found a contractor with a large enough truck. Fair enough really.

So sorry, I'm getting threads mixed up! Ignore comments on fuel pressure.

Ah no, what a shame about the welded thread! I remember having the same problem with the trim angle; I believe it was a bug "feature" that it didn't do quite what you might expect. Great to know its bang on, though! Given your lack of fuel pressure I'm not surprised it's not been running very well - it will have been very lean. The old V8 is very tolerant, but has its limits. Any progress on the fuel pressure? You've got a decent timing map and verified timing to build on, so once you get that lambda going it won't take long to get it running really nicely. What lambda did you go for?

Fantastic. I need something like that myself... Hmmm...

You probably need to think about the fueling a different way: the only way to get it right for your setup is tune it yourself. With a spark table, a well set up not-too-aggressive map for a standard rover V8 will work for just about any standard rover V8. What defines it (head design, compression, head flow) doesn't change much unless something quite radical has been done to an engine. The fueling is quite different: There are a few injector, pump and regulator options to choose from. Displacement, manifolds, exhaust, air filter, valve size and a multitude of other factors (even the spark table) affect the fuel requirements. A map for one setup will be less that optimal for another - possibly completely off - and it might only be one of those things that's slightly different. Gef it running using whatever means you have to. If that means changing the req fuel, so be it. If you find down the line that you're having to put silly vales in the table, go back and change the req fuel and scale the map. The actual values are not crucial so long as they give the correct AFR. What I'd suggest you do before going any further is verify that you've got stable fuel pressure. If its wavering about all over the place, you've got zero chance of getting a solid fuel map regardless of what you do with the req fuel, and even less chance that someone else's map will even get you in the ballpark to build on.

Yep, that looks great . Well chosen!

That's what I was thinking in my earlier post. I've seen setups which drop fuel pressure as manifold vacuum increases, which means large injectors can be run without having ridiculously short opening times with light load, but it makes no sense for fuel pressure to drop as demand is increased as Pete suggested in an earlier post. This really ought to be looked at. It's either pump, a blockage or the regulator at fault if that is the case... Could you post the spark table you're running, Pete? There's a lot of absolute garbage out there so it's worth checking you're starting with something sane.

The early hand made versions had problems with manufacturing tolerances, but the later ones are supposed to be better. As for the Korean ones... http://s10.photobucket.com/user/Tropla/media/simons/P7209800_zpswjh2t92j.jpg.html From this view, it doesn't much look like it'll bolt up to an LT box. He's using a PG1 with converted output flanges.

I'd expect it to be lower at idle, maybe 45kpa or so. There's nothing badly wrong, just the tuning could be better. You'll find as you improve it that the rpm will rise - you're making more power - so you'll wind the throttle stop down to bring the idle down again. As I said above, I think you're probably running a bit retarded (pardon the expression), so you'll probably find it's a bit more lively as you get that sorted. I'll be interested to see what you find when you get a timing light to it.

Yep, like your thinking. If the stock ECU is tied into immobiliser stuff, your best bet might be to go megasquirt. Driving the variable induction to best effect is probably the biggest challenge but doesn't look insurmountable by any means. I think the 4 pots have different bellhousings to the v6, don't they? In any case, there's always a way to make an adaptor plate. There's one on ebay for £200 you could use to measure up. I'll get the popcorn

That's what makes it such a great forum Timing guns can struggle to trigger off wasted spark setups like EDIS that are firing two plugs at a time with a common coil. Mileage may vary and you may get lucky, though. Be very careful if you use one of the posh timing lights that has an RPM readout and a dial to correct a btdc spark event to coincide with a tdc marker: as is hopefully clear, each plug gets fired twice as many times as it would in a "normal" setup so indicated rpm and advance will be double unless it has a "two stroke" setting. The cheap "dumb" lights are actually a much safer bet here if you can get one to trigger. One cheat I've seen and used is to get a spare spark plug to open the gap up on and swap out for whichever plug is paired with no. 1 (I forget which on edis 8). This biases the spark to the shorter gap on no. 1, hopefully enough to trigger the light. Lacking power, if its running "OK" (not overly lean or rich) otherwise is usually lack of advance. The equivalent of having the static timing retarded on a dizzy. You can correct this in the table or with trims, of course, but as you're doing, it's better to know where you're starting from.

No. "Static timing" isn't really a relevant concept with efi. The important bit is that the measured timing matches what the ecu thinks its setting the advance to. In normal operation, the ecu will adjust the timing based on rpm and load according to what's in the spark advance table - including idle. For setup, you can specify a "fixed timing" angle, which ignores the table and locks into that. Its useful as it gives you time to check with a timing light and see that what you're measuring matches what you've set and adjust the trigger wheel accordingly. If you're going to do this, a good value would be anywhere 0-10 degrees. You can also cheat with edis and disconnect the SAW wire. If its not sent a Spark Advance Word, edis defaults to 10° btdc. The MS still gets an RPM signal from the PIP wire so long as you don't disconnect that. If you're new to it, I'd suggest reading the msextra manual thoroughly! As Bowie points out, some way of verifying that the mark on the pulley matches TDC is very wise on an RV8. Yes it's a pain. As far as tuning advance goes, aim for having it run the nicest and getting max rpm for a given amount of throttle is about as close as you'll get to a poor man's measure of reaching max torque. If it's pinging, you've gone too far, though! I'd suggest you have a pretty good understanding before getting stuck into that, however. If it's a decent MS kit, the spark table that came with the ecu should be fine to get you up and running.

I've often thought that would be a good way myself, it's only really the starting current that causes a single phase supply problems. I changed over to multi grade oil in my large compressor and the stalling problem when cold went away though, so never pursued it either.

Yeah, I wasn't particularly happy! It might have been OK for some in an 88, but I just hated it. I don't rate the land rover turbo diesels much either, but best to keep quiet about that round here 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿

I had one in my S3. It was the most awful, stinking, gutless piece of garbage I've ever had the misfortune to set hands upon. A conversion I instantly regretted; I hardly drove it for three years. Then I put a V8 in and I'm happy every time I get behind the wheel. If you're going to enjoy driving it, my take would be this: don't bother with an asthmatic diesel.

What Fridge said^ But I'd add that you're looking at the manifold vacuum the wrong way: if it's running rough, you're not going to be producing as much power as you should, which means the idle will drop. To maintain idle speed, you open the bypass or throttle stop screw. There's no air leak here, just poor tuning; this applies to timing and air/fuel ratio. As the tune improves, you'll find you have to close the bypass or stop to get the idle back down with a corresponding drop in manifold pressure. There's even a section in the manual about tuning idle for best vacuum iirc. Key here is understanding how and why to adjust timing and fueling. The manuals are your friends there: no amount of mechanical tinkering or dumping on a "working" map from somebody else's setup is going to shortcut that beyond getting it running to start with as you've already done. With a DIY install, there's always going to be something different from the other guy and the tuning needs to take that into account. Have you looked at how to adjust the tables real-time?