bear

+1 on Blanco's advice. How old are the bags? Anything over about 5 yrs and it's ther likely cause. Treat them like any service item that will need to be replaced evey so often. Griff

Hi, Do a search in relation to "over boost" Check the 3 small rubber pipes linking the turbo wastegate etc. for leakage Griff

Hi, Have a look on this parts site and compare part numbers http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1232/36532/36928/2822 Griff

Hi Dave. I suspect you have 2 different issues. If you "Google" the three amigos you'll get loads of info on your warning lights. Usually a bad hub/wheel sensor or shuttle valve. For your suspension not raising you'll need to go through the system in logical manner e.g. checking the compressor works/air lines/rhs/bags ok etc. Griff

Hi, As I'm sure you are aware -each component you mentioned has it's own oil supply. Have you changed them since owning? If so you'll know they were full and when you check again you'll see which one has lost any. The only certain way to see where the leak is comming from is to thoroughly clean everything and then keep checking for traces of oil. Make sure your breathers aren't blocked as well - causing a pressure build up and helping to force oil out. HTH, Griff

Does this help? http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1232/36532/36905/2818 Griff

Did mine over the first lock down using Martrim stuff. Need to take your time and be methodical removing and storing stuff. I used freezer bags to put loose bits in. Follow the instructions in RAVE and also take the oportunity to check sunroof drains etc and give the plastic parts a good clean. Try and get someone to help with the application of the new material. Griff

Thet did away with the sensor on later models. Griff

First thing -have you recently drained and refilled the system? Just thinking it may just be air in the ststem. Secondly, the expansion cap needs to be well scrwed on. One place they can leak and not be easy to detect is the drain plug behind the exhaust manifold. Griff

Hi Steve, Did you follow the correct procedure to program the key? Just checking you have saved it. Griff

A new receiver is just plug & play - no programmimg needed. As mentioned above, if your put your area of the country in your profile someone near you with diagnostics can read if the key is programed to the vehicle. Griff

Hi Steve, Has this other fob ever worked at all? Just thinking it may need programing to BCU. Did you make sure the receiver earth was clean? If you put your aprox location in your profile there may be someone near you that could help. Griff

What is the problem you're having?

Hi I don't have ace but the first thing to check is that you have the necessary pipe work and rams etc fitted. If so check for leaks in the system especially corroded pipes

Hi, Bookmark this site for part numbers http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1232/35775/35776/2725 and look here for more info on the D2 ,http://www.thed2boysclub.co.uk/index.php?sid=6b86b6595b3c5058646e8531bcc27185 Griff

Hi, I don't think it will turn over if it's imobilized.

Hi Steve, Have a look at the part numbers on this link. http://new.lrcat.com/#!/12128 HTH, Griff

First thing I'd check are the fuse/s and relay. Should be in the handbook and fuse lids covers. If the bags are leaking the compressor will be working overtime and will cut out to save damage. It'll need re-setting with diagnostics. Griff

Glad you've ticked one job of the list! Griff

Hi Andy, Have you done any work at the back end that may have caused it to go out of calibration? Do you have acces to diagnostics to try and re-callibrate it? Griff (Too far away!)

If it's immobilized you'll need to use the eka to unlock it.

And here#s a write up http://www.thed2boysclub.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=3910

Here's a link to the part number for you to Google and a search on line should give you the info for replacing them. Not done it mysekf but looks like the rads got to come out. http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1232/39655/39656/3043/39686 Griff

It'll be the power steering pipes that run under the rad rusted.