Hi Gary,
PM sent. Another thing to consider, if you think it's air in fuel related, is the air bleed valve here (part no 11) http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1232/38332/38387/2958/38445
although doing the purge sequence usually gets it going.
Griff
Hi Gary,
I would have thought so. If you're not already a member of the D2boys forum I suggest you join this one as well as it's soely for the D2 and there are guys with more knowledge than me. Free to join qnd search too. I'm no electricery wizard either!
As it's turning over you know it's not imobilised. Another thing to check is the emergency cut off switch mounted on the bulkhead. Just push down to re-set. I asume the injector loom connection is ok -not bent any pins?
Griff
Hi Gary, Have a look through the attached. I've got the Nanocom Evo, but I expect they are similar. Check the crank position sensor is ok and, if you haven't got it already, down load RAVE, the workshop manual.
The attached is care of a very knowlegable guy on TheD2BoysClub forum.
HTH,
Griff
Sensor readings.docx
You can see the rear hub O ring here (Item 2) http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1232/35470/35681/2704
They are easy to change -just fit in a groove on the rear of the hub. However, tried replacing 2 on mine but needed a new hub in the end. Worth a try though as they're cheap enough.
Griff
Hi, The high pressure pipe is called "the green pipe" if you want to google it. It can be bought seperatley. It connects above the o/s chassis to the pipe to the engine and to the top of the fuel pump. You do need to remove the cover plate in the boot to access the top of the tank. It is possible to replace it by tying string to the old pipe as you pull it out and then pulling the new pipe through. It runs above the chassis which is why you can't see it above the tank. Make sure you put some sort of protection around the new pipe to stop it happening again.
This gives you a layout of the pipes http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1232/38332/38387/2961
HTH,
Griff
Hi Filip,
If you are not already a member join this forum specificaly for the D2 .Wealth of knowledge and free to join.
http://www.thed2boysclub.co.uk/
Regards,
Griff
I guess that would work, also see if there is a relay. But as I mentioned previously, if there is no air con refrigerant in the system it shuts off anyway.
Griff
The steering knuckle is the large part - number 1.
I always try and buy genuine LR for these types of parts as I don't want to be doing them again in a long time.
Griff
Hi, As long as the AC is set to "Economy" then the ac clutch/compressor is switch off anyway. If you have lost ac fluid the compressor won't run anyway as a safety feature. I'm sure the heater works in conjunction with the cooling system so is therefore a seperate system.
Do a search for RAVE, the LR manual, and you'll get all your answers there.
HTH,
Griff
Hi, You can see the layout here http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1232/35470/35580/2694
Trust me that you are going to have a fight to get the steering knukle off to replace the ball joints and the ball joints themselves.
A YouTube search will give you some idea.
Griff
Also this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mercedes-Diesel-Injector-Fuel-Line-Socket-14mm-3-8-Flare-Nut-Wrench-Sprinter/201648037790?hash=item2ef328df9e:g:gKsAAOSwxupa9CJ8
Hi, Try this book
https://www.paddockspares.com/wm3016-haynes-discovery-1989-to-1998-service-and-repair-manual-tdi-and-v8-does-not-include-mpi.html?gclid=CjwKCAjw4NrpBRBsEiwAUcLcDHGuJjMH74BbadhIaVMP69w3AFTV_dh55FwRgzg3DFXNYsUjXarPsxoCOvAQAvD_BwE
Griff