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Glad you're sorted. Did it bleed ok? I know they can be temprimental. How did you bleed it? Griff

Hi, IF you're happy you've bled the clutch properly then I'd say it's worn master/slave cylinder seals. Griff

PM sent Griff

Hi Neil, Try locking it with the key and see if it still goes off. This will rule out the volumetric sensor/s that detect movement inside the vehicle. I've read guys having problems with moths causing this. The LED is flashing to notify you the alarms be activated. Regards, Griff

Hi Hugh, If you're not already a member, have a search through this forum. http://www.thed2boysclub.co.uk/ It's soley for the D2. One question - when it stops, have you tried the purge cycle (Ign on and pump throttle pedal 5 times to prime system) If this works it's air in the system. As you've already changed the pump and seals (with genuine I hope!) then check the fuel filter housing as this can get porous, and also the air bleed valve on the top of the housing. (I think it's the rear outer one) HTYH, Griff

Hi, Can't help as have TD5 but try lookiong through this link http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1232 HTH, Griff

Good tip. I had trouble with the top joint. Had real trouble getting it started. Griff

Hi Scott, the usual advice I've seen given is to get plenty of heat on it to break the rust and expand the hole. Do you have acces to an air chisel? Griff (Peter can type faster than me 🙂 )

Hi, Assuming nothings rolled under the brake pedal (Seen drinks tin do it!!) then I think you'll need to start with the master cylinder and work your way through the system. Might be a problem with the servo/master cylinder connection. Never had this myself so hopefully someone with more knowledge wll be along soon

The only thing I can think of is the cover that the actual seal fits in. For the "oil pump" did they mean the bolt. It is a known problem if you do a search. Griff

I supose you could as long as the wheels were chocked.

Hi, Have a read of this article. http://www.discovery2.co.uk/CrankPulley.html HTH, Griff

Hi, Have a look here for the ball joint rubbers. https://www.balljointboots.co.uk/ The letter "G" after the part number usually means "Genuine" for the manufacturer.. HTH, Griff

Hi,Same motor as mine. The radio I had as a straight replacement is a JVC KD-R862BT. For dog crates etc -plenty on line like this https://www.barjo.co.uk/ Regards, Griff

Just seen mention on Landy Zone https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/steering-knuckle-ball-joint-removal.333425/page-2#post-4317853 HTH, Griff

Hi, From what I've read on other forums and seen on YouTube you only have to do the adjustment for the Range Rover with the same axle. It is not necessary on the D2. I'm sure the more knowledgable will be along soon.

Hi, I don't think you need to remove the collet in the steering knuckle at the bottom. I didn't. Griff

Looking forward to the pics as you do the ball joints. Hope you are luckier than me 😊 Griff

Good luck with the ball joints. I had a right fight with mine. Griff

Hi, it's most likely the window regulator. Very common, if you do a search on various sites. For the door card removal - try and use the proper removal tool, although I'd still get a few spare fasteners as they easily break. Griff

a 6' scaffold pole and a spring balance - 60lbs pull at the end of the pole gives the required 360 lb ft . Griff

Hi, What model Disco do you have? The reason I ask is because there are several likely places on the D2 Griff

Hi, hope you don't mind me checking the obvious, but you do have the bleed nipple at the top? Also, are you happy with the condition of the pipework from the master cylinder to the clutch master and down to the slave? Griff

Hi, You need to inspect it for obvious fuel leaks. I'd start at the rear with the "Green pipe" then fuel filter an finally the fuel pressure regulator. HTH, Griff

Hi, First thing is to make sure you have a GOOD charged battery -TD5s don't like weak ones. I've read elsewhere the the B symbol is usually a problem with one of the onboard computers. I think it's the BCU but you may wish to research further. HTH, Griff