nickm

mmmm snow Just have the standard motor on it... I will take a look tonight take it I just undo the 2 bolts on the end of the motor ?

as per above go for a decent set of springs you'll soon get fed up wiv all the banging from a cheap set

I Know its probably on here somewhere but my winch has stopped working, all connections look tight (will clean them up 2nite) solenoids are clicking in both directions but still not moving, motor not even making a noise question is how do it test the motor ? can i just put a screw driver or jump lead between F1 (i think) and A or B (Batterys has plenty of charge) Thanks in advance Nick

not sure about the mud issue but the price would put me off a bit (looks well made tho) are rose joints as good as johnny joints ?

its on their add in the mags fink its about 6 quid

la supertrucks are 250 delivered for 2 complete sets looks astho that'll be the way to go thanks for the info

when i changed mine over i re-directed the feed from the coil to the diesel pump think that was the only thing that needed changing

i have my 88" lightweight hybrid wiv them winch cage 35's etc £320 full comp had a claim last yr (front wheel came off and hit a transit) didnt bother to claim for a new front disc but the van was all paid out will be useing them again tis scary watching a 35 go down the road on its own

cheers guys will look into it today need to get a bit of steering lock back

anyone know the best place to buy wheel spacers ? looking for upto 30mm dont really want to go much more that that Cheers Nick

Anyone got a pic of an ERR2352 would useing this be any good for moving my alternator on a 200tdi disco lump ?

After this weekend at 7S, I think I may resort to the angle grinder on my rear doors before I kill my rear tyres sure u could fit the lift kit in a weekend ? rather than chopping more off the doors

topic doesnt exist when u log on

had a quick read thru couldnt see it dont you need to extend the fuel filler ? or is the enough pipe to just slide it down the pipe a bit

fink u can use the front 1 recon a grown up will be along soon to ansa u

dont sound too bad axles (10spline) are prob about 80 quid each would of fort engine n box's were about 350ish to the right person sell those bits n u should still get 75 quid down the scrappy for the rest of it

underneath the ignition barrell should be a small screw that holds the wiring block in place

theres a small screw underneath that should be holding that block onto the back of the ignition barrel could check that is done up

linky if u need it http://www.allwheeltrim.co.uk/

other way would be is to use a thin cutting disc and make a slot in the security bolt that way u can just use a screw driver to undo it think you only need to undo the one nearest the ignition barrel which would still leave 1 security bolt untouched

Was pulled over earlier this year for driving my lightweight (fedima 35's on rangy axles) with no arches, they said that only about 6inches directly above the tyre had to be covered rather than having a whole arch fitted, not sure how true this is was advised to have something fitted before they see it on the road again was also told I could get 3 points per arch (instant ban)

only ever done the bottom seal used 2 small self tappers and screwed into the old seal then carefully levered out the seal is a bit fiddly but easier than removing the box

my 200tdi does this a bit but only since i have put bigger boots on it not sure if mine is just a gearing issue (110 tbox to go on one day) could be worth trying a smaller set of wheels n tyres before pulling the box out

Hi which ford is that from looks astho it fits quite well