MJIbex

Does anyone have any pictures of a 90 roof rack on a 110. The reason being I have just got a genuine 90 roof rack very cheap and am wondering if it is going to look pants on the 110. Cheers Mark.

Max-ie I used a 2.5 petrol rad in my 3.9 V8 90 (because it was cheap, and easy to jet wash due to a thin design). I ran a single 16" kenlowe wired into the thermostat housing aircon fan switch and never had any cooling issues, either offroad or high speed on road. Mark

Exactly. I never worried about it. People don't usually bother to meddle, they'll just nick something they want it, and the standard catch is pretty easy to get past especially if its someone elses vehicle that you don't care about. Probably more chance of losing other bits from a truck. I agree padlocks would be a little extreme! Mark.

BPman, Land Rover recommends Castrol Oil. Castrol recommend "edge diesel 0/30". Although I'm no oil expert. It's what I've used at the last 2 changes; seems to be fine. Mark.

If its an 04 plate it should be a facelift as in twin front lamps (seperate bulb for main and dipped beam) and some bodycolouring to the bumpers. The ES was the older model prior to facelift; I think you may mean SE? If its a manual make sure the clutch is not heavy and does not bite too close to the top or bottom of travel. Make sure it drives smoothly. The Td4's are generally very good, the main things that go wrong on the newer cars are:- fuel pumps, turbo hoses, clutch (both hydralics and the clutch itself). Open the cubby box in the boot and make sure that the carpet is not wet at the bottom. Mark.

I don't think the sniffers work particularly well on diesels, can't tell you why but thats what I've always been told. Mark

Bish, Never acutally took my spring off. The reason I did the whole thing was I got bored of the catch geting full of mud and not being able to open the bonnet. Did not have the problem with the slam panel deflecting; do you have the diagonal braces, can just be seen in my picture either side of the winch solenoid pack. The force the spring exerts should be the same wether the catch is in place or not?! Mine were closer to the bonnet edge than Mo's and at 90 degrees to. Mark.

Bish, As others said on the slam panel. First I mounted the pins having eyed up where I wanted them and then put a bit of paint on the top of the pins and lowered the bonnet to touch. Drilled a small pilot hole from the inside out and then drilled the full size holes from the top of the bonnet. Old pictures that just about show below:- Mark Edited to Add:- got rid of the bonnet cable and main bonnet catch latch. I left the plunger and spring to stop rattle and he safety/secondary catch just in case.

Anyone had any experiences of the centre diff breaking up? What do they sound like on the way out? With the Centre diff unlocked there is a noise from the transfer box sounding like a stone in a washing machine above 20 MPH and a nasty vibration through the transfer lever! With it locked the noise and vibration disappears. I have a feeling it may have been driven for 20 miles or so on the road with the diff locked! I'm suprised that this may have killed it quite so quickly. Anyone had a centre diff issue before? Cheers Mark.

Not much help to your problem, but the price of 4 Bolt boxes from Land Rover has been reduced very recently to £220. Mark.

Yes, It should come off very easily. The trick however is to try and get the glue to come off with the film and not stay on the window; and not to mess up the rear heated screen. The ease of this will depend on the quality of the tint/glue. Westerns tip of the heating is very worthwhile. Mark.

The letters are standard on UK spec cars. On a 2006 vintage of car that panel would be brunnel (silver/grey) in finnish. If it is body coloured, the badges are quiet often removed to paint and then new ones are not always put back on. You can buy the badges from a dealer if you want it; can't remeber the price from the top of my head. Mark

If its still on its original locks, you may be able to get some keys cut from key codes. It's got to be worth a try before spending money on locks. Mark

A long Time ago now!!! Mark

The 110 occasionally ventures off road!

Ditto, Best bits of kit on the truck. Bought 18 months before they were even installed. Loads of in out of the garage during the build, about a year. Trucks done 1800 miles in 3 years after the initial 2 1/2 years. Never charged the batteries. Never let me down. Wired in parrallel. Have you changed any thing with the set up of alternator, winches or any wiring? Mark.

I'll sell you fuel at £60 per litre and then we'll both be happy!!!!!!! Mark.

My 56 Td5 makes a racket and the linkage is noisey too. No problems to date, with not working though! Going to wait until closer to the end of warranty on that 1. My old 90 always sounded like the mechanism was going to break, it never did. I think the linkage is the most important part; if it is worn or out of line it puts more stress on the motor. Then they sound extra rough. the Ibex is on the 2nd motor and it's painfully slow, but have not got round to diving in any futher. Do the wiper move over the screen as quickly and without undue judder when the screen is dry? If it does the motor and mechanism are most likely OK? Mark.

Thats the one. If your buying new no problem. If you buying used; the previous keeper/s must have been VAT registered to enable VAT reclaim. Mark.

David, There are no difference in tax or VAT status for the Station Wagon, whether it has the windows or the utility pack. That is 100% fact, I can go into further deatil if you need. Mark.

With regards to the front diff. The original layout is not a typical sliding jointed propshaft with a flange on propshaft and diff; it was a spline end on the propshaft that slide into a splined hole on the diff, this allowed for the length difference (very small being independant suspension with fixed diff). Land Rover are reworking all the diffs as part of a customer relationship program; so don't worry about that 1. Mark.

That offer I reckon you will find is only for Discovery, Range Rover & Range Rover Sport. Mark.

You can walk into any main dealer and order the exact same vehicle. There is a small saving in price over bodied varieties; the idea being that for commercial users who want cherry pickers, tippers, etc. you do not pay for what you don't want and the fitting of these bits does not require removal of bodywork. I would imagine that the reason for export only will be due to the original supply agreement that Land Rover has with the MOD & VAT implications. Mark.

Your right, there is meant to be a way without using main dealer computer. I not heard of anyone having any success though. I don't think my mate could do it with either his RovaCom or AutoLogic; although later software may now do this. Mark

Either get a different transfer box selector mechanisim, with the diff lock movement; or get an electronic actuator for the diff lock mechanism. Disco parts Some of the Disco 2 transfer boxes did not have the diff lock facility on the lever, although most still had the acutators on the box itself. Plus the viscous coupling Borg Warner RR boxes did not have a diff lock and therefore no position on the lever. Mark.