MJIbex

I have both an immobiliser and battery cut out; the immobiliser activates about 30 seconds after the ignition is switched off. So if you switch off the ignition then imediately cut the power with the battery cut off, the immobiliser is left in an unset state. Then you can leave the vehicle for however long, then just switch the battery isolator and then just start without the imobiliser fob. Therefore make sure the imobisler has set before you cut the battery isolator. Mark.

The adapter should have a number/letter (can't remember) stamped on it. They can be ordered from a dealer; might not be much help for tomorrow though. They don't like repeated/heavy use of air guns. Mark.

I can't answer your question exactly. But before you go down that route, what makes you think the bearing is shot? I'm not saying it isn't but i've driven a number of freelanders with feathered rear tyres that give the noise/feel of knackered wheel bearings. Mark.

I'm guessing diesel as well. You say you've changed the (Glow? if diesel) plugs, have you checked they are all getting hot? My diesel 6.2 is a pig difficult to start without adequate preheat. Mark.

Slow progress, and being lazy busy at work getting someone else to take care of it. The first concern was I was unable to get any response from Dynatrac as to bearing or seals used, really happy about that. Luckily bearings are all Timiken, and seals don't look overly unusual. Even working out what the brake pads were was a bit hit and miss. Diff spreader attempt 1. Worked OK but may need a bit of alteration for the refit. The problem with this inboard seal design is that mud can get into the axle tube and can grind away at the half shaft and seal. This is a look into the diff housing and down the axle tube. Difficult to see but there is now a lip on the half shaft. The other one does not look pretty either So the plan now is to find a sealing method for the outer end of the axle tube. Will either be a machining job for a specific seal or finding some sort of press lip seal to fit, as below as on the hub end of the drive shaft. Might be back on the road before Christmas! Mark

James, Are you thinking of buying new? If you are then I agree a 110 is cheaper than a Discovery; if you are buying used, a year + then I would say purchase price would be very similar. A D3 is far bigger inside. 90 brochure page 46 disco brochure page 54 Fueling costs:- the Disco is far better on fuel if you drive it the same speed as a defender. Routine servicing is cheaper and less frequent on the Disco. Yes tyres and repair costs may be higher. Mark

The oil overfill will not be the cause. I bet on the clutch switch too. Mark.

.A bit harsh I think Bogmonster; you can have similar problems with the Td5 too. The Disco 3 has won heaps of awards and is a great vehicle to drive. Admittedly I don't know what you do with them on your home ground. Warranty hours sold are way lower on all current models versus predecessors. We certainly tell our customers about campaign/warranty work being carried out on their vehicles. Turbos - seen 1 or 2 TdV6 issues. My 110 Td5 turbo went bang too at a year old with 4000 miles. EGR - seen some of those. Seen Td5's with the issue too. Handbrake - might struggle to argue that 1 so well especially if used off road. Starter Motors - not seen 1 being changed yet. Wheels wearing out - in what way? - not aware of that either. Fuel leaks on the engine - not seen that yet; but presumably better than into the sump!!! Exhausts falling off - not seen that 1 either - what are you doing to them?! Spare wheel winches - usually a monkey with an air gun - I've seen it done on rear door wheel carrier too, but granted can get away with 1 broken. Mark.

Hi Rob, Looking forward to seeing this as I would also be interested. I do not seem to be able to PM you. Mark

May have missed the boat on this time wise! Have had the exact same problem on the Disco. It is soft metal of a cheapo regulator I put in; the motor winds the unit right to the end on the last tooth. Over a period of time the hard gear on the motor has started to make a new groove/tooth at the end of the regulator. The motor was fine as was the regulator along its whole length is fine bar just past the last tooth. The motor is basically winding to a point where it does not have enough purchase. My cure was to take the regulator and motor out of the door bottom. Undo the motor from regulator and put gear back half way along the regulator. Put back together. I have put a block of wood at the bottom of the door to stop the window from winding the whole way, as a temporary measure. The only proper cure would be to change the regulator or maybe a blob of weld at the very end of the regulator to stop the motor running too far. Mark.

It was probably all filmed on private property with owners permission. Topgear is always humerous, it has to be taken with a pinch of salt although, it's not gospel! What amused me more was, what was the dubbed over engine sound track! Mark

Ditto Had a few now upto about 3000 miles, no noticable oil use. Upto a litre every 10000 miles on any modern engine would not concern me. Mark

Cheers guys, will see how my mate I get on. It's the half shaft seals not the diff pinion, they are diff end of the axle tube though! Since the axle has done about 1200 miles from new, I'm guessing things may be quite tight. Mark.

I need to get the diff out of my Dynatrac axles (Dana 60's) to replace the oil seals; which are not at the hub end, to easy of course, but at the diff end and have been told that a sailsbury diff spreader will work perfectly. Anyone got any tips or hints on this, or willing to loan a spreader, or have 1 for sale. Cheers Mark.

I always just used to use 2 strops with wheel chokes on the rear wheels; handbrake and in gear with the trailer winch cable still attached. However now I would say it's a must to strap the body down on a vehicle with soft suspension when on a trailer; I watched my classic RR pitch from side to side building up a terifying oscillation in the lorry ruts when going down a big hill on the M25 4 years ago! It was not going anywhere by itself but it did try to take the trailer and Discovery with it. My only option was to swerve towards the central reservation to put all the load to 1 side. I now use the original method plus an extra strop to compress the suspension. Mark

I just got given MJ51 BEX, apropriate for me.

His non LR related business - never really found a use for it though, sat in the barn for about a year. Not exactly my thing either, but if you suffer from magpie syndrome; its quite shiney! Mark.

I know the chap who bought it from RDS originally, it had a bit of a habbit of eating propshafts. Didn't get used much as not very practical/capable! He was going to use it for promotion at events. Mark

When I had the 90 I drilled them out to hose pipe size. After playing parked on the drive which had a slope and washed out front to back. You could seal the upper holes and just leave the bottom ones with a removable style of wading plug? Mark

I don't see why you could not actually fit the seat, however from an insurance/legality point of view a bit of a major risk. Centre seats are no longer fitted or even an option for the same reason that the rear seats are now forwards facing; this is because EU legislation states that all new cars built must be fitted with 3 point seat belts for all the occupants. A 3 point belt is useless for a sideways facing seat (hence the rear seats now face forwards), and I guess LR did not want to get into the realms of redisgn for front seat centre seat belts. Mark.

Look here Tyre size Mark

Got mine from D4x4, brilliant; I can drive with only 1 hand on the wheel now. 35" simmex on beadlocks, now with minimal 30-40 mph shake. Mark

Nige, On the more recent vehicles in UK spec. The Base spec vehicles have Vinyl seats, the County gets the cloth, the XS gets the part cloth/ part leather. The G4 were part vinyl/part dimple mogul. Can't remember when the vinyl changed from black to the part you mention, but probably either with the Td5 introduction or the revivion for the 2002 model year. Mark.

I agree with Les, don't think the're illegal to have fitted; but must have a "normal" horn fitted also. Mark

Are you getting an 07MY XS? If so your CD/radio will have an AUX input and you can plug MP3, I-pod, tape!, grammerphone! whatever you want in. Mark.