MJIbex

What was it then? I've never driven a CVT that I liked!

Have you all beat so far for silly low mileage! The Ibex was registered September 2005 and has done under 1900 miles! So about 570 miles per year. Mark.

Have seen this on a few, they will turn over, start and then die within half a second. Will then refuse to crank (or only crank for tiny period - not enough to start). Lock, then wait for the imobiliser light to to change from fast flash to slow flash. Unlock should now start. Mark.

Thick pond liner cut to shape - very good grip/fit and will stretch round corners. Mark.

It's a piece of cake once you've done it once. Just make sure you've got 10 mins set aside to put on, about 5 on the way off. It's suprisingly waterproof as well! Mark.

Got my chains from Chains. Seemed to be a wide selection and good price, and not the cheap ****. Plus not many seemed to supply to fit the 255/85's I've got. Mark

The 2 nuts are meant to be held by a metal clip that hooks onto the chassis, it invariabley rusts. From memory you should be able to get a spanner in from behind and the middle side on the a standard bumper. Mark.

I always used to use the NGK BPR6ES with no problems except once when I got 1 dodgy plug in amongst the 8 which begun to fail after not very long causing an ocassional misfire. The whole lot were changed and that was the end of it. Mark.

It's all very interesting and we could all debate this for hours! But lets face it, even if there was a sensible and workable legisaltion that could be passed to prevent hideous & dangerous bodges. The very people who would abide by the legisaltion would not be the people who need to be targeted. It would be the people who would avoid this legisaltion/break the law who would not abide by it. Lets face it everyone has stated that an MOT is not a guarantee of roadworthyness, yet a large proportion of the problems on the road are caused by people without one or more of:- tax, insurance or MOT; all of which are all current requirements. So what good would a new requirement be? Mark.

I used the metal header tank from my TD when I had a 3.9 and it used to vent at about 112 deg C. I found much above 108 deg C and the engine was usless and lost all power & torque. Cleaning the rad externally is all very well but you don't know what its like inside. Try back flushing it with a hose pipe and see what the what looks like as it runs out. I used both the TD rad (until it sprung a leak) and a 2.5 petrol rad with a single 16" kenlowe and never had any problem with cooling unless the rad was completely blocked. On the Ibex which chucks out a bit of heat; i've gone for an Allisport Rad and can not rate it too highly on the difference in engine temp that it has made. I have used the same SPA guage on the last 2 vehicles so know exactly what is happening with engine temperature SPA. It can also be used to switch a fan or bring on a warning light/buzzer at a user chosen temp. On the Rover V8 you can also use a aircon thermostate housing which has a switch the trips at about 96 deg C from memory and switched back of at between 92-93 deg C. Mark.

First off I'd check for play in your wheel bearings; if there is a lot of movement this will cause the discs to push the pads back a fair way and therefore require the first push of the pedal to bring them back to normal. Mark

I'm interested in this thread because its what I was considering replacing my GM pump with. I had a look today the LR retail price is in the high £300's, eek!!! But found this as a bit more reasonable. e-bay link However if this needs an oil supply this brings around another problem! Mark.

no electrics in the key.

Blank should be LCWE500390 Retail = £15.75 + VAT + cutting costs Makes it 1 expensive key!

Cheers for the replies. I have been thinking about this some more today. I think my start route is going to be ditching all the expensive/difficult to source/unknown/evil GM parts. 1. Steering going to mock up a bracket to fit 300tdi/ZF power steering pump; this will also allow me the remote fluid reservoir of more capacity and water proofing ability. 2. Brakes - Hydrobooster seems a popular route in the US, but bits here would likely need to be new and therefore expensive. The accumulator is a good idea also, but am determined to try and get it right with a basic simple solution without adding extra weight and complication (it already weighs about 14 tons)! Fridge am not aware of a specific non return valve in the line, although I have not looked today. Would this not be in the pump or the servo itself? I need to check the Vacuum power that my pump is supplying, is there a special tool required for this, or will a hand over pipe sufice. I half wonder if this pump was designed to have the assistance of a hydrobooster and therefore can not cut the mustard by itself. Since the vaccum pump is belt driven to get the best match for the LR servo I reckon I can get a puma/transit 1 mounted as they are also belt driven and should be matched to LR servo. cheers Mark.

I'm after some thoughts, opinions & suggestions (sensible ones!) with 2 separate problems I'm having with the Ibex. I apologise for the length of this 1!!!!!!! 1. Steering The system is slightly leaky LR 4 Bolt steering box of unknown origin. Belt driven GM Power steering pump and combined reservoir (fluid capacity not that large). 35" Simex. The steering had never been that strong in deep mud, I thought that was a side effect of the Simex and why everyone went to hydro steer or assist. However it was always fine out of the really deep goo. But then having played submarine commander at Hogmoor I first had a further issue. The symptoms were:- large loss of assistance, groan/whine, milky fluid. My thoughts were water in the system. Drained, bleed and refilled and all was fine. Then at the Mike Wolfe had a couple of minor dips in the wet stuff and the problem returned even worse than before. The same symptoms but also disappearing fluid and complete loss of assistance. The drive belt is definitely not slipping. My questions/thoughts are:- Is the milky fluid a sign of water ingress? Could I be boiling the fluid and causing it too airate? Could the slight leak on the box be allowing air or water into the system? My thoughts at this stage for resolution are replace the power steering pump with another and remote reservoir to ensure larger capacity and water tightness. I also have a Rob Hybrid kit of this thread thread so want to have a set up to best cope with this or any future variance of. I had a look at a pump a friend says is a 300Tdi 1, and it looks mighty similar to the ZF link Are they the same? Both dimensionally and in terms of pressure output? Which would make the better choice? 2. Brakes The system is Wilwood callipers all round. Chevy master cylinder of some description. (Land Rover 1 did not give the brakes enough bite) GM belt driven vacuum pump on GM engine with low tick over speed. Land rover 110 pedal box and servo - apparently the bigger servo. The problem is all works fine on the road (higher engine speed) and on the first pump of the pedal. However I lose servo very quickly at low offroad speed. To the extent that I struggle to hold the vehicle on a moderate slopes when gravity is working in the same direction as the gearbox when the engine is at tick over and the pedal has been pushed more than twice. This leads to silly selecting of neutral and increase revs to get assistance back. My thoughts:- Don‘t want to increase engine speed as on Auto box and therefore will just be supplying more torque to overcome - therefore more vacuum is required. Change pulley size on vacuum pump - will this cause problems at higher engine speed. Use a brake booster as below or similar link Anyone had this problem or used anything similar? Cheers Mark.

I'm not at work today - but can find out tomorrow, if the part number crunchers here don't beat me! Mark.

Put some weight/pressure at the rear of the seat base when trying to lift the back rest. The hook that you mentioned it a mechanism that prevents the seat back from returning to upright unless the based is fully latched. Mark.

I'd leave them off; stops a multitude of squeaks from mud and crud trapped between discs and the shield. Mark

I think the noise you have is normal, from being on throttle to off throttle. If there is any suggestion of a hill it will shunt like a good un. I would not say that it is best everyday driving practice; 25 MPH in 5th is a lttle slow for anything other than coasting to a halt. Mark.

It will get to more like 25MPH, as said with precise use of the clutch. You can happily pull away in high range third with no throttle, then change up through the box. As previously said you have to feather the clutch slowly out. From memory tick over in 5th is about 25mph, about 20 in 4th. As also said it has no real point/purpose. Mark.

Definately fuel burning heater. But it is not fitted to all Td4's. As standard on earlier higher spec cars, in later fl1 life it was a cost option of about £500 on all cars. Mark.

It's why I put the bonnet pins on mine! Used to get it open with the hose pipe or pressure washer (mind the radiator core); crusty/dried mud jams the mechanism. Grill off, then just keep rininsing until all the crud is washed out. Any remaining mud is wetted and therefore will still move more easily. Remember to put some oil on afterwards if your not changing it. Mark.

Exactly as above. Mark

Rember the NFU are loads of different offices all under 1 company. Just because 1 local office is good/bad does not mean you will have the same joy/problems with another. Mark.