Tim2809

ive got a 2kw in a 110csw and its more than enough. had a 5kw eberspacher and it kept sooting up as never really ran on high power for long enough

mud do a bracket/housing to sit it under the cubby box. they will fit under drivers seat in the tool box or ive fitted mine under rear seats. 2kw will get my 110 from 3 degrees to 30 degrees in under 10 mins. 5kw will just soot up as wont run long enough on high

now i know what the issue is i am ordering new calipers on monday

right i think i finally sorted it thanks to everyone who commented took front pads out and i dont know why but when i pushed pistons back in i can only assume some seals had twisted and when i tried pumping the pedal without the pads in only 2 each side actually came out. ive got all pistons to move out and poured some fluid on them as i pushed back in by hand. now pedal is at the top and now when i brake i actually stop and can lock front brakes. once again many thanks to you all

does anybody know the o.d connection on a 300tdi air filter to air inlet pipe from the wing? also the air pipe that goes to the turbo from the air filter has a join in the middle, should there be a band inside so the outer can clamp against it as mine keeps coming apart.

its fitted with the pdwa or was. ive taken it out as it only indicates a pressure loss on a 110 only thing ive not done is calipers and servo. may have to take the gamble. ive got new tyres going on at the weekend so may take pads out and check the pistons again and try re bleeding again

initially i had them wrong as would not adjust up, now i can adjust so they lock the drum.

this is the o/s/r. cylinder viewed from the rear of the wheel

filled it up with no pipes connected and used a pressure bleed to push fluid through. then connected the pipes

if i turn engine off and go back 5 mins later it still has vacuum in it and needs 3 pumps to expell all thats retained so assumed its good. i ve not tried turning engine off whilst moving and expell the vacuum and see if they get really hard. have a private drive at work so could try it safely

the calipers are still original and nipples at the top. sure i fitted cylinders on correct side but will double check. pedal goes 1/3- 1/2 way down and feels firm but at this stage im thinking of making a parachute as nothing else seems to work. i feel its got to be something obvious that im missing.

right sorry to reserect this post. brakes still poor if i try an emergency stop its like driving an old series on drum brakes thats just been through a flood. its had new discs and ferrodo pads, new delphi wheel cylinders and mintex shoes. new goodrich braided hoses and a new trw master cylinder. the caliper pistons pushed back ok so initially ruled out but now not sure. vac pump is good as replaced for know good pump. brakes adjusted and bled out several times over last 3000 miles since doing the brakes. would calipers cause the issue im experiencing? any advice appreciated tim

the elements have double sided tape already applied to them which sticks to the base foam or back foam. that is what confused me. unsuprisingly britpart has not bothered to reply to emails

if you have the old screen out have you tried new seal in the frame pushing into all the corners and see if it has still got excess material

ive got a set of britpart heated seat elements as my original landrover pads are shreaded. in the kit is 12 strips of felt with double sided tape applied but theres no mention in the instructions about them. Does anyone have a clue what they may be for? and please no britpart bashers i think that topic has been covered

took mine off the b+ post but made sure i had an inline fuse as close to the alternator as possible

found complete waeco kit for similar money so although will need to change the switches im going for new kit as back rests elements still unknown. thanks for everyones input and help

will have a look. exmoor do a single heat kit for £110 or a pair of base elements for £75

did see them and wondered if can re wire just to use either the high or low as dont want to change switches unless i have too

took apart and elements have fallen apart. have emailed exmoor trim

i have continuity through the back rests. hopefully may be a broken cable instead in the base. just another issue to sort

ouch. lol. hopefully thats the issue. i presume these are in the base and not the backrests

i found out purely by accident by laying the old pulley on top of the new one as the mark was faint i made a new mark and was fine

im going to pull them apart this week and have a look. any idea of supplier or will it become apparent once apart

i bought a replacement cam sprocket because original came loose. the new timing mark dot was 2 teeth out.