Tim2809

Had fun and games doing rear crank seal as its been done before and silicone everywhere, dowl pegs come out slightly so bottom half of seal would not come out easy. Will get pics when I get around to fitting it as it's an In between job.

There's no square plug on the back. Only a 7/16 headed bolt head so after looking appears is the level plug Filler is on the top

Whitehouse & son rebuilt it. There was some studs missing when I sent it to them, seized pins for transfer levers, seized handbrake actuator. On return all new studs fitted, new handbrake expander, all pivot pins replaced and sticks even painted up. My boss who owns it said the box should be in a cabinet its so nice.

Just got gearbox and transfer box back from reconditioned, gearbox is easy enough to fill and set the level but the transfer box don't have the plug on the side as shown in manual to set oil level. There is a bolt on back face by handbrake drum approx 7/16 or 1/2 head size, is that the level check Can someone help?

Mine is a 300tdi

Mine was from fourby. Its made by turbo technics so a good quality rather than a rebranded Chinese core. Mine spools from about 1400rpm.and full boost at 1800ish. I run it at standard pressure of 1.1bar

Look on ashcroft site, theres a choice of 3 replacement drilled gears to fit original non drilled gear t box depending on serial number

Obviously priced not to get the job.

I'm running Clutch fix clutch 25k miles and most is running in excess of 2.8t and towing upto 5 ton off road across fields 3 ton on road on no issues so far

Just fitted the uprated one. Starts to spool from about 1400rpm. Set boost to 1.2bar. More than happy as engine don't have to be doing 2200rpm upwards to be driveable, which means less gear changes

Bearmach have agreed to send replacements. They arrived today and I thought great I can change them tomorrow as day off. Opened bag and there is 1 Bush.......

No not a problem I have seen bushes fitted with lump hammers and then wonder why they split. The radius arms are 1 of the few you can tighten up unloaded as they don't twist as the 2 bushes hold the axle in the same place. I do tighten the big nut on the back fully once weight is on and settled. It's frustrating as I avoid blue bag products for this reason and never had a issue with bearmach products in the past. This time of year my working week gets longer so dont have much time to keep replacing things for no reason

Awaiting reply from bearmach but looking at genuine they are £25 each. At that price it's cheaper to go superpro. Believe metalastik are genuine. I suppose if they last another 30 years £100 is not much money but realistically it will be sold on in a couple of years

That's odd as my mate has a recently released 1996 wolf and that's running a salisbury axle which is why I thought they were salisbury at that age. Thought the p38 was from about 2001. More new info to put in the memory bin. Everyday a school day.

Ftc4996 from bearmach is £34

Ftc4996 from bearmach is £25

Can't see them being anything other than normal salisbury axles in a wolf

Will contact them and see what they say, was fitted with a press and correct spacer so as to push them in on the outer edge and not pushing against the rubber. Been fitting bushes for over 25 years but never fitted bearmach always been genuine l/r. Just wondered if anyone else had issues and if they have gone down hill to britpart standards

I fitted a set of bearmach narrow radius arm bushes to my 110. Within 4 months the bonding has given up so obviously as good quality as britpart. I'm thinking of either genuine bushes but they are probably overpriced blue bags now or a set of poly bushes. What are peoples recommendations please.

Running ebc green stuff When I fitted ferrodo all the pistons were free and easy to push back but they never had the bite or ability to stop as I expected. I always ran mintex til they changed compound and then squeal. As for wear I'm expecting 6 months from them due to Miles I do but £25 every 6 months is worth having brakes that work

Agreed. Also if owner drives it In "c" then stops and brings it back to "L" they should notice speed difference especially in 1st gear. I think over to the right and rearward is 2wd high. Towards left and reward 4wd high. Into c is 4wd low and pm is neutral for running pto driven equipment

Also believe you can buy that plate separately from electric winch shop or Goodwinch could probably help aswell

Yes they are needed to stop the tops being splayed apart and gears running out of alignment. As for repair I wonder if an engineering place could weld and re drill it

Wash springs off and see if there's any coloured paint on the coils which indicate what springs they are. As for the rims Alot of sites say 235 max for 6.5j rim but Alot fit 265 happily. Think 305 will be pushing it too far.

Quick update. As time is short at the moment I fitted 2 new cheap calipers with intension of rebuilding mine. Fitted new ebc pads as my original ferrodo were worn at angles which proves my theory of pistons partially seized. Result is a sore head as I dabbed the brakes when moving up the drive and nutting the steering wheel. I've suffered poor brakes and just put down to an old vehicle, can't believe the difference even before New pads settled in and a trailer with 2.6t on the back.