zoltan

Could LR get the Defender price down by de-blinging them? I really fail to see why they should cost that much or is it that they don't cost that much it's just what LR perceive the market will stomach?

I had a small map book of LPG stations from somewhere which luckily has phone numbers so I can phone ahead if it looks dubious. (Beaconsfield Services on the M40 has LPG as a mid station)

Yes it is well worth the £25 IMHO if you are using lots of different engineering steels. It has a good section on selecting steels too. In the back is an index of relative machinability for steels with EN1A as a number 1.

Does it ever need to be undone? If it didn't a shear bolt would keep PTS* guessing *Pikey thieving scum

It used to be free if you were an account customer! Very useful book, ours is more of a dirty brown colour now.

I'll post up a picture of the page tonight, it is part of BS 970: Part 1: 1983 Tensile ranges the useful bits: T is 850-1000 N/mm2 55-65 tons/sq in U is 925-1075 N/mm2 60-70 tons/ sq in V is 1000-1150 N/mm2 65-75 tons/sq in runs from P through to Z. I'll post the whole thing up tonight for reference but that should help for now

Macreadys Orange book can translate the S, T, V etc IIRC it is relates to the tensile properties given by different heat treatments on steels I'll find the book at work and post some details

Have you got a serial port on the PC or are you runnning a USB/Serial adaptor? Battery voltage OK?

Cheers Simon!

Thanks Simon, I'd be rather keen to buy the second pedal box lock that comes available actually!

You've still got to harden the spline areas, the rest of the shaft doesn't benefit from hardness per se. If the stock bar is supplied and machined in the 'T' condition, relatively soft and machinable, heat treatment can increase the tensile strength and with annealing maintain good ductility. Much probably depends on the material in question so that's probably where the GKN shaft scores Ashcrofts have probably invested a good deal of time getting this right with theirs

I could make a reasonable list of things I have lent out and that have come back damaged and with only very few exceptions I have ended up with a knackered item and a whole host of excuses from the borrower. I have become very choosy now

Do you mean the GKN one was through hardened and the Britpart one just case (surface plus a bit) hardened?

Be honest, if someone had removed the great big Merc badge from the centre of the steering wheel would you actually know what you were sat inside?

Shouldn't this thread go in the 'chat' forum that we don't have?

FWIW, the insulated radio body on my Russian Gaz truck uses an aluminium skin, a high density cellotex type foam of about 40mm thickness and an inner plywood skin of about 6mm. I think this must be made as flat sandwich panel then assembled as a box with steel cappings over the joints on the outside and inside. All interior fixings use an internally and externally threaded aluminium bush bonded in to the ply and cellotex. The external thread is coarse, probably 8-10 TPI on a 5/8" diameter.

How are you joining the ally sheet? Rivet and glue?

5 port A Series Minis are a right bitch because you get charge robbing occurring on the centre two cylinders unless you throw fuel at it. Rover got round this with some clever firing on the standard MEMS systems on the multi point MPI Minis. Not sure of the exact details of what they did because we take the 5 port heads off and put a cross flow 16 valve head on with none of that aggro The single point injection behaved like a carb so this wasn't such an issue but that ran out of time on it's emissions ticket so they had to go MPI

Where in Kent is it?

The weight issue is most relevant when you come up to a hill and you have to turn some of your precious kinetic energy into potential energy. Irrespective of what powers your beast you have to add energy into the system or lose speed

EFI plus Megasquirt. Mmmmm nice!

New crank sensor missing tooth position but this is friggable when you mount it on the B series

Lotus did lots of curious research projects including some interesting work on solenoid powered poppet valves to get very accurate control of valve timing events

No, it has what is left of its original paint which I can patch up at my leisure provided I use an etch primer under the top coat. I wasn't advocating anodising BTW

We get much more power on the dyno on a typical crisp cold winters morning when there is a high pressure system over us. Even despite correcting the figures to ISO, engines still perform much better in it. That said, on an engine dyno it is only breathing in the good cold air and not running through it