zoltan

For non radio types, what are the hoops you need to jump through to get licensed/licenses? Presumably 'proper' radio isn't chock full of @rseholes like CB? Have you really got to have the equivalent of Jodrell Bank in your garden to get any distance? What is good starter kit?

Made in kevlar, you could then make it yourself, just a thought

Hi Richard, FWIW it sounds as if your 2 22mm pipes will provide better actual water flow into the engine than the single 32mm does. We've used smaller electric pumps on A series Mini race engines for years and these pumps only have 19mm i/d hose tails and we have never had any problems even up to 190bhp

Another thumbs up for HTS2000, we've had some good results repairing large cylinder blocks with it where our local specialist TIG welders kept getting the joint pulling apart

I bit the bullet and took my heater in to the local dealer who were extremely helpful: they ran it on the diagnostics and it hadn't locked out which was good news. No arsey attitude and did it while I waited. I have a simple water pump failure which I can replace and the fan was excessively noisy. They didn't make any charge for checking so I ordered the parts through them when I got back home. Should be here on a next day service so thanks to South Eastern Auto Electrical Services in Maidstone, cinderella will be going to the ball afterall

Trawled through dozens of pages on Espar.com. manuals very good but same story: it is a software lockout so it is a trip to the dealers or buy the diagnostic reset tool for £300 I want a button on the side so that when it is -20 in the middle of no-where I can keep warm. Unless I can find a way to bypass/gain control of this I'm reluctant to have this in the truck. I understand the Webasto Thermo-top doesn't have this lockout feature

Feel free to lambast me if I have posted this in the wrong forum. I have a petrol Eberspacher Hydronic for my truck's living quarters and it won't start. I suspect that now it has gone into lockout. I bought it from a well known auction site from a German fellow (couldn't find any petrol ones in UK) and assumed it was OK. That was several years ago and in the intervening time it has either deteriorated in storage or it was always duff. (It is a new installation to me) I've checked the wiring harness and all appears to be correct there. I have then pulled it partially apart to enable me to check that the components all function. From this the water pump (B4WS) is not responding to 12v. I've made absolutely sure it isn't failing due to low voltage as i know Ebers commonly fail to start from LV. At a pinch I can work it with an external electric water pump but that still won't help me with the locked out control module. Has anyone hacked one of these? I *could* take it go a dealer to get them to unlock it but I'm off on a trip on Friday and would quite like this thing working and a visit to a dealer really isn't in the spirit of this forum Anyone?

I think you ought to edit this thread title as it gives a bad impression on Ashcrofts, hardly their fault their stuff is in high demand? Fair point?

I don't know how much useful measurement will be possible on the pistons themselves as the skirts are actually not round but a complicated elliptical shape to account for expansion and contraction. That will give you all sorts of anomalies in your measurements. You are probably better off stopping at measuring ring gaps. Having 8 parallel and round bores with a good cross hatch hone pattern with a set of correctly sized new rings will make more difference.

What type of bore gauge do you have and have you any means of calibrating it? We bore and hone cast iron A series Mini blocks for racing and achieve top to bottom accuracy within 0.0002" and ovality within 0.0002". We have both Bowers bore micrometers and a comparator gauge for checking. The Bowers gauge is checked against its sizing ring so we know we are on size, the comparator then gives us the roundness. The Bowers bore micrometers have three 'feet' at 120 degrees whereas the comparator has essentially three 'feet' close together and another 'foot' opposite the cluster of three.

FWIW my mum used to make jewellery when I was a kid and she worked out of a (converted) spare bedroom at home. I don't recall any acid meltdowns or gas explosions. I think your g-f will have a devil of a job stopping her tools going rusty in an outside building

You can make anti roll bars from EN16T. You won't cold bend them though, use Oxy and hot bend where you need to. The drop links ideally need to be vertical otherwise you will deflect the bar instead of promoting twist in it. Been making them like this for racing for nearly 20 years and not had a single failure (touch wood)

Have you definitely got the leads on the right plugs/coils? If the engine ran like a dog on carbs, Megasquirt won't cure a tired engine. If the vehicle is a keeper I would go the full rebuild if your current engine is a series of question marks in the reliability and wear stakes

This is what I run and have for the last four years: A 3.5 EFi V8 with MS1 and EDIS and the excellent BLOS propane carb. With map switching I pretty much cannot detect any significant difference in performance between the two fuels. My vehicle is a factory 110 V8 CSW and I have the RPI Engineering 80 litre do-nut tank in place of the standard petrol tank with a 90 petrol tank under the drivers seat with a home-made filler neck a-la-Series 1. I get about 62 litres in the LPG tank which provides between 160 and 190 miles range depending on the time of year. Gas seems to go much further in the summer, whether this is the higher butane content or it is happier at higher temperature I'm not sure. Most of the year I start on gas, it is only when it is seriously cold I will warm up on petrol

Has anyone cracked running LPG injectors with any of the MS ECUs? If you are predominantly running on LPG this *looks* interesting. As always, the proof of the pudding is in the eating so it would be good to hear from a user.

Got mine with a load of other bits (H180 cam, ARP studs, set followers) through work, we have an account with Kents. Vernier comes with a plastic protractor in the box so you only need a dial gauge to get TDC and to show max lift on the cam follower and a bit of welding wire to make a TDC pointer. No real hassle to set it up properly but my heads were off so I measured TDC straight off of the piston

I've just fitted a Kent Cams duplex set. Fitted perfectly but it is a vernier adjusting pulley. TBH I'd was glad to have the opportunity to time the cam in properly instead of just accepting it might be right

The early RB44's were reknown for pulling hard to one side under heavy braking. Something to do with the Panhard rod IIRC. The later trucks were all fixed but the reputation stuck. see here http://www.arrse.co.uk/reme/66195-rb44-they-really-bad-people-say.html http://www.russianmi...php?f=17&t=4156

I'm half way through putting my 3.5 back together which had light blows from the fire ring into the waterways on cylinders 1 and 2. To be fair, the tin gaskets have lasted a while (failed softly) but it is going back together now with composite gaskets, a 20 thou skim, new Kents H180 cam, duplex chain, ARP studs and genuine followers. A proper birthday. The water loss has rolled on for a number of years and only recently got so bad that I have been forced to do something about it

I drive my V8 110 down to Provence each summer for our holiday and it is a great journey. Laden down with kids and camping stuff, we either trundle down on the Autoroute which is a bit dull or take the Route Nationale and see a lot of France. Admittedly my 110 is running on LPG so the cost is bearable. I've no idea SNCF still operates a Motor-rail service

Do you have the self levelling Boge strut on yours Neil?

Build it up bit by bit with TIG? Is it heat treated unobtanium steel or softish cast steel from what you can tell?

You could always run your Wideband separately (weld in another boss) without connecting it to MS and keep the narrow band plugged into Megasquirt and tune it in MLV via the NB then you'd always know whats happening

We had a rep come in with this in a catalogue. Shame it is so ludicrously expensive http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MINI-DUCTOR-II-Flameless-Induction-heater-230-volt-Launch-Price-/280874307608?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item416569d018 It really looks the ticket for studs, nuts and bolts and more but not at that price