reb78

I wish Ford did a right hand drive F150.

They aren't but they do look similar. We used a place local (ish) to our place in Cornwall called stablesonline.co.uk. Nice company and decent prices. The lights were horrible to put up as the ladder was at its limit as that roof is high!!

I put four of these in the large barn where we have our stables https://cpc.farnell.com/v-tac/vt-40101b-5964/floodlight-led-100w-3000k-black/dp/LA07145?st=100w led floodlights I actually bought the 2700k version but i cant find it now as I hate the blue light from LED lights at the other end of the spectrum as I dont find it that useful or easy to see when it is too harsh. The light from these is brilliant. Cost about £100 plus some wiring and a switch. This was with just two of them installed. There are another two now at the back as well so there are no shadows from the stable sides. (ignore the idiot in the middle)

It has a look of the Lada Niva about it. I quite like it.

There are enough enthusiasts around the country now with megaflush machines that will do a complete gearbox oil (son including the torque converter) change for you that its actually quite quick and easy. The price seems expensive initially, but about 50% of what these guys ask is actually the cost of the oil (as it isnt cheap and needs to be correct spec). Woody from the D3 forum came to do mine the other day but it was so clean we decided to leave it another 20K and do it at 85,000 miles. Key with this is to keep it preventative and not wait until there is a problem as this is too late.

I cut my c pillar on the diagonal back where there was good metal, then cut the yrm part to fit and butt welded it to the remaining original section. Seemed a lot easier than hacking around where the diagonal meets the vertical pillar to remove the whole diagonal. The finish is neat. Looking at Ralphs picture it also looks like thats what he did - at least i think i can see the weld lines.

That looks really good.

Well, 30k miles after this happened and the bearing were replaced, the exact same thing has occurred again!! Just re-read this thread to confirm my diagnosis and exactly the same thing started again last night. Very obvious in 5th as well this time. AAARRRGH!

I dont know the year Ed. Its a known issue with retrofitting D3 electric seats into one that didnt previously have them fitted - i think the memory module needs a feed from the mirrors etc to work and because they arent memory it throws a wobbly. The passenger seat is plug and play though - I dont think that is connected to the memory module. I am trying to remove the memory module from the system completely, so those buttons will be defunct, but the movement buttons will all work properly. As far as i can see, the passenger seat switches earth the motor through the side of the switch that is not activated - so if you select to move the seat forwards, live comes from the forward switch connection and earths through the backward seat switch connection. Vice versa to move the seat back. The drivers side seems to make a live connection to the memory module and is earthed differently - presumably through the memory module. I think i can replicate what is gong on on the passenger side by using a pair of change over relays for each set of switches. Anyone any ideas if this will work?

Interesting! Sorry the brake switch didnt sort it. At least you have a spare of a part that commonly fails now!

One thing i have noticed is the values rising for the older models, so perhaps now is the time to buy/restore a D2 so you catch them as they start to appreciate - i think they will. Get much more modern (like the D3) and catastrophic failures will see the car scrapped (I suspect our D2 will be with us long after the D3 has gone) - I think the D2 is as fixable as some of the older vehicles on your drive. Having said that, i met someone who has fitted a D4 engine into his D3 the other day - not phased at all by the D3/D4!

Its got all the same bits - drain plugs, filters, etc etc as my 200tdi, so simple servicing isn't that bad. The plastic engine covers on modern engines seem to scare people off.... Bearings seem similar to the D2 setup, brakes are simple enough - arguably easier than than my old 110 to change a caliper. Air suspension - the D2 on air can be just as troublesome, but its a compressor, height sensors and air bags. No ACE is probably a bonus! The electrics are probably more of a nightmare but I wouldn't class them as servicing.

I've got both (and a 110! - a glutton for punishment) The D3 is a bit scary to start with, but once underneath it, its all just usual car parts, just a little more complicated in some areas than its predecessor. We paid just over £7k for a 2007 D3 with 68,000 miles on the clock and an extensive service history. So, with your budget, you could buy a D3 to enjoy whilst you are rebuilding the D2...! I find the D3 a good ride, not wallowy and i like the air on all four corners vs back end on the D2. It handles well so it seems like i differ to Dave above in my opinion there. The TDV6 is a nice engine, plenty of power, but so is a TD5 with a remap. Silly thing is, out of all three land rovers, I always find myself picking up the keys to the 110! There's something more satisfying about driving it compared to the other two!

Mine was fine. Chocked the wheels well front and back. Key then is to take the slack out of the drive train with the wrench, push the chocks tighter against the back of the wheels and then tighten properly. Mines been fine for at least 18 months, could be 2.5 years now actually and a LOT of miles.

It did on mine. I had a very similar problem - every time i hit the kick down, the suspension would lower, the acceleration was limited, speed was limited etc etc. New brake switch cured it - for £15 or so it is worth a try.

The info came from Snagger, but I cant find the posts now. During his rebuild of his diff, I am sure that he said that it took waaaay more than 120lbft to compress the spacer, so 120 is tight enough to be tight but not so tight as to affect pre-load further. I did mine on the ground on the drive. I just chocked the wheels well to hold everything still, no special tools needed other than the torque wrench.

Pretty sure I used this Phil: http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/246023/0/flange_assy_sailsbury_diff_def__wa General consensus seemed to be that if you re-tighten the nut to 120lb ft it will be tight enough but you wont alter the pre-load. I did mine about 18 months ago and it has been fine.

Range Rover Classic seats in mine. They’re brilliant. Best £30 I ever spent - although I doubt any are that cheap now!

Brake switch. Change that and i reckon all will be solved.

I was going to suggest welding it. I’m no expert though. I havent done anything like a manifold and the temperatures it experiences but have done some reasonable welds on cast stuff with the right rods. I’m sure a pro welder could help.

I cut the matting on mine. It does weaken it though. I cut a square out and left a thin strip in in front of the hump to try and give it a little strength.

I have some D3 electric seats that I want to fit in place of my manual ones. Apparently the passenger side is plug and play, but the driver side is not due to the memory module. Initially I looked at the wiring diagram and thought i could just remove the memory module and use some relays activated by the seat switches, but I am not so sure having studied the diagrams a little more. The switches look different for the driver seat compared to the passenger. It almost appears that the earth passes through the switch for the passenger seat, but not for the driver side where i presume the earth passes within the memory module. Wiring diagram here. https://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/17007/501-10.pdf Any ideas?

Its a shame they dont do it with a more attractive dial face in the guage. (Mainly removing the Roamerdrice text at the bottom)

I keep doing it with the flywheel pin. Done it twice now! I’m going to write myself a note next time!

Theoretically, what damage might be caused to a 200tdi injection pump if one were to start the engine with the FIP locking screw tightened (the screw on the side of the pump not the timing pin)?