Pete Attryde

They are both the same on mine. They are like the passenger side photo. So I would suggest that the drivers side has taken a hit at some point.

The steering guard on my Discovery has recovery eyes as part of the verticle sides they are made o 10mm plate and are bolted to the chassis in 3 places each side. Also my bumber has recovery eyes welded to the top of it and finally it also has round bar loops welded onto it as suggested by Bish. Not the best picture but does show them all.

I am indeed useing one of the 5 way modular type ones (2 x 6 way mini relay holders, 1 x 20 way fuse holder and 2 x 2 way standard relay holder) on Mike's 110, to be honest I don't need to swear at it because it is quite nice to work with. I would however suggest buying twice as many crimp terminals as you think you need, as running out half way through wiring it up is a pain in the butt , (caused by inheriting the re-wire from some one else and needing to re-do the wiring to make sense of it )

I did search before posting and all the info I could find refered to Defenders not Discoverys and it would appear that the steering column for a Discovery 1 is only 14 to 15mm in diameter rather than around 18mm for the Defender. I am waiting for some more info from Liz at Devon 4x4 at the moment and will try calling Tweeks in the morning.

Cheers Tony, The last time I tried to get the correct steering boss from Tweeks it took 4 attempts. But I will give them a call.

And to answer my own question Devon 4x4 appear to do a 14mm 29 spline boss. .

Evening all, I am trying to source a suitable boss for a 1996 300TDI Discovery with airbag. I have already purchased a Discovery 1 one from QT but this has to big a hole through the middle of it. I counted the splines whilst the wheel was off and the shaft appears to have only 28 splines which seems to be a lot less than the Earlier Discovery's and also the Defenders (48 and 36 splines IIRC). Basically has any one bought one to fit and if so where from.? Thanks in advance.

The Discovery/Range Rover ones won't fit the rear of a 110, because the 110 uses a larger diameter spring on the rear.

Theres no danger of that, as it's wiring is spread liberally around the unit/interior. . See you in a couple of weeks.

This might help answer that. Table near the top

This one by any chance :- How to increase the performance of a 200/300TDI from the tech archive

I have used Namrick for bolts in the past. Good, fast service and excellent customer service. I know the linked page doesn't show 3/4" they do state that they do other sizes above the the ones listed.

I might have run my 300TDI on a 50/50 mix of diesel/ Jet A1 for about 18 months with no problems, and I know of a number of other people who might also have run various manufacturers vehicles on everything from pure Jet A1 to a mix, for many years with no major problems. However I suggest that you would run the risk of up setting the authorities in this country if you were caught doing it. The perks of working on a aircraft maintenance base,

Ok so mines an Auto, but I seperated the boxes before pulling them as it makes them easier to handle, whilst taking them out.I had assistance so did not use a crane to remove them but re-fitting I did on my own and I used a crane and a trolley jack + blocks of wood get every thing lined up. I also used four 150mm ish long M10 (i think) bolts with the heads cut off as guide pins in the flywheel housing as this helped get the box lined up before pushing it home. I then did the same to line the transfer box up. Les is right the hole through the transmission tunnel is really to small to get two use full lengths of rope through to allow you to lift the complete assembly.

According to the Kumho Site :- Here the 33" tyre only measures 32.3" anyway so you are not that far off especially if the measurements were made with the weight of the vehicle was on the the tyre.

Mark, I have Navigator 7 on my toughbook which works well. I can't remember where I got it from at the moment but a google search will probably throw up a few places.

I broke the Auto box and replaced it with a recon one and changed from the 1.2:1 transfer box to a 1.4:1 transfer box as the change in gearing suits the commute I do better (mostly B roads) and have found I'm using about 15 litres less fuel a week. . I won't be selling up for a small car, but may well look into veg oil conversion.

Mike I am going to PM fridge when he gets back from his little light green laning trip to Russia , As it may be easier to stick the wiring in now in anticipation of the installation of the V8, plus I quite like the idea of spending your money to find out how MS works .

I would change now rather than later. Not a dificult job just a bit fiddely. worst bit is getting to the bottom hose clip to undo it. When my radiator was in a similar state to the way you describe yours I found that even a short steep hill (not towing) would cause the temperature to rise much faster than it should. With the journey you have ahead of you and towing Mouse I don't think it's worth the risk.

A Long way to travel but I would recommend Ashcroft Transmissions. I have not had any fitting done by them, they supplied my recon Auto box, but the Customer Service is second to none and the knowledge they have is fantastic.

I think HfH might be refering to this :- Clicky

Yeah what they said. I haven't managed to finish wiring it up yet and already you want to change it . Definately squirt the V8 when you get round to putting it back together/ nick the one for the kit car.

You may find it helps to lift the chassis slightly to improve the clearance above the axle.

Sorry I don't know if/how it can be fixed. I had to get a new box as the Discovery is my daily drive and I needed it working as soon as possible.

Sounds similar to mine See here. According to Ashcrofts there is a drive member inside the box that fails and leads to complete loss of drive.