Disco-Ron

I used trailer cable. .. seven core. That way I could switch between inside or outside use. And in and out obviously. ... I like to kill the power to the solenoid in case someone decides to bugger about with it. ....

If you get a piece of card and put a fold in it. Then lay that on the front of the surround can you not mark the shape with the fold where the fold in the panel is..... ic that makes any sense. ....

This is mine. ... but check with measurements first!

I'm a few days from fitting the tub... I'm just praying I welded the hd cross member on in the right place. ..... should be. .. I made a jig!

Just a couple of snaps

Never been very successful putting pictures on here. .. is it a case of having them on photo bucket and linking them??

I have bought a new genuine chassis from a main dealer. .. then spent over 250 hrs prepping it and strengthening to my needs with roll cage mounts etc.... all un needed brackets removed. ... and it's now been galvanised. .. hopefully the build will be smooth as I've done so much preparation. ...

I did that last time ballcock. When I did my van.... however this time it's a pick up with new bulkhead and seat box. .. so its coming off in bits!

I'm stripping the 90 to build on to a new chassis. ... am i right in thinking that the best way is to start at the back and work forwards.....

You can certainly tell a v8 bell housing. As it should have the two lugs on the top of the engine end. ...

Easiest way is to buy an entire vehicle that you can drive. ... I got mine for £400.... removed what I needed and got the money back on the rest. ... engine and box going on the bare chassis today

You really need a press..... you won't be able to get it right with much else. ... be aware though that even genuine ones don't last like they used to. ...

If you remove the other side. ... PUT THE STANDS UNDER THE CHASSIS! ! The axle will twist and be unstable without either arm.... re bushes. .. they really need to be put in with a decent press..... square. .. otherwise you just struggle forever. .. For info. . Where are you roughly? ?

Ple521...... $159....ouch.....

In the next few weeks I will be building up my 3.9 auto. ... I need to mount two coolers behind the grill.... The only way I can see to do it is to remove the bonnet catch stays... does anyone have any pictures of how you've done it. ... I need inspiration. ... Thanks

Is that second link the one that will fit the transducer and a defender speedo??... if so. I don't suppose you know the patt no... as I don't want to get it from oz..... Thanks.

Is the air box lower than the turbo? ?... could residue be simply running down hill??

Ps. It's a 90 chassis but dimensions are the same. .

Monster. .. where are you roughly? ?... in about six weeks time I will be cutting up my chassis to ensure its disposed of. .. I could save the section needed. ... although I haven't studied it to see what state it's in.... For info I'm in Dorset. ....

Just looks like boly headed screws through the rim.... can't see it actually doing much myself. . Apart from letting air out. ...

I used the tapered one on my previous truck. .. if I was doing it again I would use a straight one. Imo the tapered one is leaving rusty metal in place. .. when gkn make the new chassis they actually have a square plate that is welded on the inside of the chassis rail... that way they can get it (apparently) right on the jig.... Twisting the tapered on when fully knocked in can be very tricky! !

I have done it several times. . I always start the cord along the bottom and allow an overlap. .. I then work my way around gently while someone sits on the bonnet applying pressure. ....

Btw. Do you know that it's not an h pattern. .. but a figure 8.... you don't have to go to neutral to engage the difflock. You can just slide it sideways

I can't imagine how they have done that. .. The mechanism won't work back to front. ... The knob doesn't need rotating 180 degrees does it? ?......

Too late. ....lol