Disco-Ron

I used to do mini gearboxes with my eyes closed. ... so I guess I should be able to do it ...

There is a vehicle speed sensor in the speedo cable. ... This tells the ecu if you're moving and alters the fuelling to suit. ... sounds like yours has failed. ..

I have swapped it before so not worried about that element. ... I don't have pullers...... and the shimming is my biggest concern. ... just don't want to get it wrong. .... have read the manual though and just can't decide. .....

As above, toying with doing it but unsure.... would rather not spend£200 to then spend another 600getting a rebuilt one..... Ta

It's the brake shield..... I always remove them to stop mud getting stuck......

Yes its the same. ... I know one person who foolishly is using a short one but on a discovery with the tre wound right out each end. ..

Do you have the ignition as advanced as it can be without pinking??.... it makes a massive difference. .... mine on a 1.2tbox goes quite well, yours should be better on the 1.4.....

You'd be amazed at how much shuttering and braces you need to stop it collapsing with the weight of wet concrete. ...

Very true Matt.... however a diyer is possibly putting themselves at more risk... due to possible lack of safe working practices.....

If in doubt, go deeper.... you can always make a timber platform if it's too deep when working on higher vehicles...

Yeah that would work. ... I think the idea is that if for example you have steps one end you should have a ladder the other. ..

There are lots of rules for commercial pits...... including the fact that power sockets and lighting in the pit can't be more than 24v...... which effectively means a dedicated set of pit tools.... if you can even get a 24v welder etc.... This is due to the fact that petrol. Diesel. Lpg etc are all heavier than air and sink creating the risk of explosion. .. a ventilation system would help reduce the risk. ... lots of other things such as means of escape etc.. bit of a minefield to be honest. ..

Exactly where the lower column is is irrelevant. . from memory the slidey bit should be nearer the bulkhead though as it touches the inner wing if it's nearer the steering box....

A friend recently did the factory tour..... They claim that everything will be destroyed when production stops. End of. Also. The replacement has been signed off and production processes are being built up now. ..

Does he have it covered on the rx so it can't be seen? ?

Sp4x4 do complete kits...... you'll find that part numbers are practically useless

No one ever questions the legality of an old vs van with a wheel on the front.....

I found getting the new one in straight harder than removing the old one. ...

Something is wrong within the front axle. .... did you retry it in hi range with diff lock engaged? ?

A few things that I've learnt during my v8 ownership. .. ignition timing. ... ignore the timing marks, advance it til you get pinking (pre ignition detonation) under load, then retard it slightly. .. The timing marks are known to be in accurate. The carbs need to be clean getting a good fuel supply, balanced and tuned correctly with the right needles.... plug choice is also very important. And ideally genuine cap, rotor arm and leads should be used. .....

More details required. . Are you using su carbs? Injection? . 4barrel holley or similar? ?

Thanks Mo and others.......... that clears things up....

How is it that early 110 calipers have bolted straight onto a 300 axle then?....

The caliper is as big as can be fitted on the standard hub..... and the pads are about 40% bigger than 90 ones..... unsure about piston size or exact balance but you almost face plant the windscreen now. ..

I recently replaced all my brakes. ... fitted standard rear calipers etc but early 110 front ones... The caliper is bigger and so are the pads.... it stops much quicker now! ... on solid discs...