Disco-Ron

If it were me and I really couldn't get it undone, I'd cut the side of the nut off with a grinder so that there's only a small bit of nut left before the thread, then use stiltsens, what's left will break and the nut will come off :-)

Dlrc members £25 for vehcle and driver, non club members £30. Passengers are £5 each, if that passenger wants to be able to drive, then it's £10, not 5, we basically make nothing out of the passenger/additional driver charge, landmark/msa take the fee straight off us. Should be a good day, feel free to spread the word!!

Rob, it won;t be an issue, if you stick to the byway there will be no risk of you needing to pay......... simples...

http://www.devon4x4.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage_new.tpl&product_id=11985&category_id=1013351&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=14

^^^ totally agree, diffs and shafts usually fail long before transfer boxes!!

How can you tell that the transfer box is broken?? They're Normally quite robust .

The d44 one is black powder coated, and original shape, but with two big loops welded right through to the bad as potential recovery points, I have one complete with ball hitch for rtv trials etc . . .

Get a d44 hd one 5mm thick to start with, and cheap for what it is!!!

Good write up, I fitted the td5 release on mine, as I have td5 bulkhead insulation, its plastic!! I'm now on my third, I guess my bonnet release mechanism is a bit tight, but I wish I'd never changed it!!

Any news??

Classic broken diff symptoms!! Check for a spinning prop first!!!!

Sounds like you've popped a front or rear diff, get someone to sit in the truck and 'drive' NOT in difflock, whichever prop is spinning is the one that's popped the diff! In the meantime, best not drive it!

I use 7j modular with zero offset, the caliper hits the axle before the tyres rub the arms, using 235 85's . .

If you do put the new loom in the chassis, be sure to get the bigger connectors out of the chassis first, otherwise you'll struggle!

Google autosparks, they sell new looms for the 300, I recently had a chassis loom off them . . .

When i first got my 300/90, i struggled to get it to do even 55mph on the way home, mind you, it was ex national trust and had only done 300miles in a whole yr! After much hard use, and fiddling, even with the same gearing and same size tyres, it'll now pull just about three figures........... on a track of course........ mind you, thats not to say that its nice to drive that quick!

standard springs and plus two shocks will almost certainly dis locate!

its pretty much only alrc affiliated clubs that 'shouldn't' allow cranked arms . In standard class anyway. . . I have cranked arms for strength, however, as they are made for lifted trucks they tend to be a tad longer than stock, to retain diff angle. . . So my trailing arm bushes are in front of the chassis to get that right! . .

mud rails are tapered, with inserts . . But in essence, a bit of box with holes would work

does the alternator have a regular pulley? Vw tdi's have a clutch in the pulley that fail and then squeel!

Thankyou Mr Parrott, thank goodness someone can read before trying to create an argument!!

Crazy idea.......... i have a 1929 vintage car, i'm more than happy that someone else runs an eye over it once a yr..... and in reality thats all the happens..... no seatbelts.... no indicators, no wipers... (the windscreen folds)..... no brake lights..... the list of what i don;t have is endless.... BUT, i have a mate building an austin 7 hybrid, with a reliant robin engine, a dn god knows what other bits will find their way onto it........... to not have some sort of test is crazy..... people can basically get a car thats been in a barn for years out and drive it, if they reckon its road worthy..... at least the mot means that even if only on that day, at least the vehicel was fit for the road at that time!!!! I'll still be taking my car for the test regardless..!

Had i had the need fopr a towbar when i had that gurad on my disco, i was gonna fit a socket on the back door, and have the one on the tow hitch as an extension to it.........

Well, for a start, you'll surely need to remove 22 (at a guess) inches from the prop, not 2,,.....?? And, for reference, the td5 disco uses a cardon jointed fornt prop........... not the same as a defender one.

i might be missing something here, but surely going from a 110 to a 90 chassis will require more than a mere 2 inches being removed from the prop!