Disco-Ron

How much is it pulling?? Do the brakes feel hot if you coast to a halt??rear radius arm bushes being shot can easily cause some very strange handling characteristics!!

Doors have lost their graphics, paint v dull, bulkhead looks to have started to go above vents . . .

Been thinking more about this, my above statement was re 90's. . . 110's may be different, but I'm still pretty sure rears are one piece, never seen a Salisbury on a td5, they're two piece normally

99% sure the td5 has flanges on the front, but one piece shafts/flanges on the rear.

A friend mentioned the other day that her ex military 110 was wandering badly at speed, I checked the tyre pressures, she had 28 front, 48rear!!!! I lowered that to 35, and she said its now so much more stable, and she never puts anything in the back, My advice, try lower pressure all round!!

What tyres and pressures are you running??

might sound strange, but check the condition of not only the front radius arm bushes, but also the REAR trailing arm one, its surprising what a worn bush can do!!

Only just seen this thread, and was amazed no one said lift pump, sounded obvious to me,anyway, fingers crossed ya sorted it!

Pm sent

The wider bushes last longer, and are more readily available. The arms aren't that hard to find! if you're anywhere near Dorset I have a pair you can have for £20!

Fast idle could simply be the cable being too tight!!

I'd be talking to vosa, they worked on the brakes, left them basically dangerous, and then gave kt an mot certificate!! Try clamping each flexi in turn and see what happens, you could try clamping all of them, the pedal should be solid! Also, does it brake in a straight line? Is it possible they used the wrong ports on the master??? Good luck!

I rebuilt my truck two yrs ago, with all new genuine bushes, in those two yrs I've done about 6k miles, I've just had to redo all the bushes, they were all completely shot, if yours have lasted that long, well done!!

Thanks guys, as I thought, more rubbish wiring I could do away with!

Just messing around tidying wiring under the bonnet, 300/90 . . Does the temp sensor on top of the head do anything on its own? The egr is ancient history. do I need this sensor?? Ta

you are turning it the 'right' way aren't you. . . . Lh thread!!

When I can see in the bell housing I'll see where the leak is, did the crank seal on my old disco, no need to remove the housing. . .

Update. Fitted new flexi yesterday, however whilst doing it I removed the breather that I have permanently in the wading plug hole, and there's oil. ....thick black oil. So, ordered new rear main and front seal for g box, HD release whilst I'm doing it, and will source clutch locally if its contaminated when I get it out, one job I could have done without! Think it's time to remove all breathers and make sure they're clear!

Was aiming to get one, as i fitted the ones on the brakes when i swapped the chassis........ oddly, can't seem to find it listed available anywhere........ any ideas..?

Have put back together and bled it, oddly could feel slight creaking whilst bleeding, ie, clutch arm not moving! So suspect hose, will get new one, but gonna leave as is til after Friday... Ta for assistance!!

Stripped slave, no issue, stripped master, no issue, pedal moving fine not under load, will re assemble tomorrow night and keep everything crossed!!

Think i'll pull the slave apart first, and see what its like inside........really don;t wanna pull the clutch out, as i need the truck to tow on friday! Ta. Ron.

So,'96 300tdi. . Very stiff and creaky clutch pedal, lubricated the pedal, drained fluid, and the pedal action seems fine when there's no resistance, put fluid back in and it's really stiff again, I suspect the plate in the bellhousing, however that was new less than 10k ago, as was the clutch itself. . . Any ideas?? Cheers.

Keep looking!!

Thanks, ordered, we'll see if the carriage is an issue. Ta