Disco-Ron

I honestly don't think it makes any difference with those gaskets. ...

I did it once..... and just butchered it with a grinder as it was scrap anyway....

Yes. 300 era......

10 or 24 spline??... square or triangular flange on the diff.... quite domed or flat drive flange?

The brass thing is a simple drain tap..... so you can properly drain the block ... As for the thing on the core plug I have no idea...... I bought this bottom end from a guy that has it built from a brand new block.... fully balanced. .. pistons weight matched. Ross - end to end and overall etc... and balanced crank.... he had it in his cobra kit for 14k then went to a 4.6..... the other core plugs have temperature stickers and them and it's never been above about 95..... hopefully with the cam I chose and all the bits I'm using I'll have a super smooth motor.....

Float will be stuck on the baffle around the fuel pick up........ quite common .... keep meaning to bend the float wire a bit on mine.....

Replied on your fb post..... I have an identical block.....

If you fill the lifted before fitting you won't be able to check the preload on them.... kinda critical in my book..... you wouldn't do a similar job to an engine with tradition rappers without adjusting them would you??....

Check the leads are on the right plugs!

You Don t need to get to tdc. Simply put a blob of paint where the dizzy body meets the front cover and put another blob where the rotor arm is pointing. ...

Any progress? ?... Just out of interest. .

Last time I was unfortunate emoti need one I had three recon ones before I gave and bought new... others may have different /better experiences. ...

The cable from dizzy to coil has an earthen sheathing..... probably using the middle pin!

My money's on a rocker cover gasket.....

No knock sensor in the 14cux as it only does injection not the ignition. ...

I might be barking up the wrong tree but.... Could the fact that the puma heater seems to have a valve that closes the water flow have an effect? .. the earlier ones have a flap that blocks airflow. .. therefore the bypass element til the engine warms up is blocked.... Could that explain it heating up so quick?... Just a random thought

With that fan switch the fan will never go off...... you need a switch that goes off at regular running temp..... 80 is far too low...

Worth checking that the slider on the rear propshaft is free..... if it's seized it'll soon have a detrimental effect on the rear diff!

Double triple and quadruple check that the plug leads are correct. ... it's very easy to get3/5 and 4/6 wrong. ..

A tip I was given was to fill the gap between the cradle and the tank with sealant.... it stops carp getting in which will get wet and hardly ever dry out...

Vacuum pump...... going downhill in an auto he'll almost certainly not be using much if any throttle therefore with a weak pump I suspect he's using more vacuum than is being created..... Worth checking the hoses first!!

Does that work with women too?!

Just bluff it and say it worked yesterday. .. . Doubt it'd fail simply due to that.....

Remove the centre seat or hubby box and watch the disc spinning at speed.... I suggest getting someone else to drive.. . . . . Mine rattled so much I have up with it!!