mwncidur

Tom, I've been thinking about going to MS and an edis on my 4.6 racer. what ecu you going to use? where do you find a base map?

Have you tried checking it clears everything on full bump ie. no springs or bump stops?

My mate is a carpenter and buys shed fulls of stuff from them. Superb quality and decent prices.

Just be warned bout pacet! I know of at least 5 that have destroyed themselves and in two cases the rad! this was due to mud sticking to the blades, the pacet fan has no outer ring connecting the blades together. so, becomes very unbalanced very quickly with 'spensive concequences.

May be of no use to any one but here are the a few pics........ The pale orange motor is mine, and the red and yellow motor is of a mates motor, whilst it was being modified last winter by me. The skin is 1.5mm flat sheet ally. These wings work well for us. one has been proven, a tree jumped out at 40-50mph, the wing bar was wrecked but it saved the front axle and shock! clickable (I think) for larger image

Marks out of two, I'd give her one

I to know a chap who has done this on the front axle of his trialer. he has an early rangie axle with ashcroft 1/2 shafts and an ARB, the early rangie has the short outer stub shaft so he has a small step machined in to that shaft a smidge under the depth of the spline. simple to carry a couple of those stub shafts round as spares.

A quick tip. It is a good idea to drill 2 small holes in the bellhousing and put a length of wire through (going over the engine side of the TC). this then ensure that the TC stays fully home whilst the gearbox is positioned. Once the box is bolted up you can cut the wire and pull it out, then a blob of silicone seals it all up again. you can then bolt the TC up.

I too shyed away from the bmw engine from what people had said about the vanos etc, i'm currently investigating the chevy ls route pound for pound thats some serious grunt for your tokens!

I would say you guess correctly. I did think about this engine for a racer project, the way around the gearbox problem would be to get an engine and box from a bmw 740 and a remote transfer box. big horses for cheapness though!

me too I know it may sound cheeky but, what do you call cheapish? that would be ideal for arches on the racer.

I went in, filled in the form, handed it over. when asked what qual's I have, said i do servicing from home but mostly fab and welding work. chap said should he put mobile mechanic? I said put what you like. card issued

I have drifts made up for radius arm bushes and panhard rod. just drift'em out and drift'em in no press no heat! simple and cheap. radius arms take about 1 min each to knock the old bushes out and back in.

I went, but was shotgun, so sorry no pics. cracking event though. one of the funniest things I saw was the difflock8 recovery unit bent like a banana, think they must have tried lifting/winching sommat far too heavy.

I have disco 200 in my 110, there is a disco centre box (with nothing in it) and thats it, rest is just home made using 300tdi pieces of zorst. only gets slightly loud on absolute full beans!

I heard yesterday that a 2 pence piece is now worth 3 pence in scrap. but then there was a big reminder about defacing the crown carp.

3.9efi is more responsive and reliable imo, i've run this system on my 4.6 racer for about 3 years, with out the slightest glitch. go for it you won't be disappointed.

Got myself a trade card today. picked up an illuminated rocker switch for the rear work light. shelf price £2.19 I paid 99p!!!!!

Whitbread didnt do cds when I worked there, coz he hasnt got a mandrel bender. All of my comp motors have been mede with bb. I've stuffed it on its roof once or twice and never had a problem with the tube. My next motor however will be done in cds coz ive bought a mandrel bender.

'bout time if you ask me!

is it a 90 rear prop your spare? if it is, try and get an early (70's i think) rangie rear propshaft. they are wide angle. then just cut and shut it to suit, I have done loads which have been used for trialling and raceing. none have broken (yet) and balance has never been noticeable.

mines got 1 rover 820 leccy fan, dont know the measurements. and its raining. has been in for just over 2 months and i havent used the fan yet.

82 or 88 stat? I am airing on the side of caution at 90. On my racer i use an isolator switch. once the stat opens, turn the switch...... fans come on, leave them on 'til the end of the race. not quite as practical on a road motor.

optimum must be somewhere near stat temp? boiling with antifreeze is 113 degrees. at a guess i would say fans on at 90 off at 89. i'm only guessing though. if it goes pete tong dont blame me.