steve b

Yep , what they said , FIP stuck open . It will need stripping and cleaning by a specialist . You are lucky it stopped on the key - the last one I had this happen on self fuelled on the engine oil , not a pleasant experience. Having the air filter (& breather) disconnected is probably what saved it cheers Steveb

Unfit , yes that's fine , I'd still add a lighter grade of earth wire up to the bulkhead earth point , say around the thickness of the alternator current wire cheers Steveb

about 14cc/rev and 180 bar , iirc the series pump is a group one to fit the pto housing cheers Steveb

Go for something off a similar AC capacity system ? = similar heat exchange rate ? cheers Steveb

That's handy , a good result all round then cheers Steveb

Bowie is right , the gearbox earth is the std factory main current earth for the starter. You need to run one to the chassis as well , but more importantly a smaller one direct to the bulkhead earth point near the clutch m/c. This is the main earth for all the lights and dash and will help to bypass all the dodgy bolted ally/steel joints in the bodywork. Mine has full earth returns everywhere ( I remade my own loom) and in 12 yrs. and 120k miles I've probably had 2 bulbs go ...... cheers Steveb

Oh yeah wrong end , but the same reasons I'd say ? cheers Steveb

Early and later mounting brackets I think , the alt. should have 3 fixing points , 2 lower - the rear has the sliding collar , and one upper for the adjuster strap . The rear lug has snapped because the sliding collar is either not sliding or not present cheers Steveb

A few pic's Mr Hangover if possible ? Always good to see a pic or two A good outcome then , will you get the old head tested to see where the failure(s) are ? cheers Steveb

that's great Soren , what a laugh . That girl has good reaction's ... It reminds me of one I saw on youtube of a 360 excavator rotating in a quarry lake with someone waterskiing off the bucket cheers Steveb

I'm all for " if it's not leaking don't touch it " , that said if it's stuck I'd be inclined to fix all the issues so when you do go there next time , it's text book . cheers Steveb

once you have done it once it will come apart easily next time , copperslip is your friend. DC , if you are going to do the crank seal behind the timing belt pulley be prepared , it will almost certainly be rusted on too , a clean back to shiny steel on the crank nose first as well good work getting it off Steveb

I have a UCC in line filter on mine , 5 micron iirc with 1" in and out . I'd be inclined to just drain/syphon a little out into a clear container and decide from there cheers Steveb

It may be time to hire a small set of bottles ( oxy/propane or oxy acet ) and get some real heat onto the hub , it will end up as scrap but it will be off . It's held on by rust I'd say just from the almighty struggle you had to get the unbolted pulley off, it's a slide fit normally , but you could just put the flywheel pin in and take a look at where the key is - should be at 12 o'clock . cheers Steveb

when you say no power on hills , what does that mean ? engine revving up but no speed increase or no power when you push the throttle? A clutch change is a time consuming job even in a full workshop with a lift and gearbox jack cheers Steveb

What sort of thread pitch and diameter did you use for the (cough) man-size bolt up the middle ? My fabricated 2 bolt jobby is getting a bit used now with an M12 centre bolt cheers Steveb

When were both filters last changed ? Steveb

The symptoms all point to fuel starvation so , apart from checking the tank cap breather is clear ,It might be worth cracking the bleed screw on top of the fuel filter at tickover to check the lift pump is working - should squirt out at tickover and if good , fit new fuel filters and bleed through using the little manual lever you found under the lift pump , once it's coming out of the filter close bleed screw then release the two 8mm head screws on the IP and pump again on manual lever til it squirts out , close off and it should fire up - if not loosening an injector pipe at the injector will clear any remaining air . It can be a bit of a faff to get all the air out , but the above should do the job . cheers Steveb

Use all 4 M8 bolts for max tensile strength if you can , I'm going to remind you about fast chilling with a hose pipe after heating , if you can scrap the damper heat the hub around the crank then chill , as hot as you can get it with a plumbers blowtorch and have the hose running before putting the puller on it cheers Steveb

whereabouts are you ? was just thinking someone maybe nearby to help ? cheers Steveb

yeah , that's it DC , make sure the 2 bolt's are screwed well in and go for it cheers Steveb

Yes , you should using them as that is the solid hub that I mentioned , it only holds the pulley to the hub so remove bolts and pulley cheers Steveb

You could try heating the end of the crank with a plumbers blow torch then rapid cooling with water , but there is a risk to the rubber bond . Sometimes a hefty wack with your biggest hammer to the puller centre bolt ( assuming not an hydraulic puller) when it's as tight as you can get it will break the joint , if the bolt has been missing for sometime there will be rust in the joint . let us know how it goes Steveb

....you are pulling on the centre hub and not the vee belt pulley ? as it is rubber bonded to the hub . The bolt missing is a strange one , have you looked at the end of the crank for evidence of any sort of glue or damage ? cheers Steveb edit , it's probably the case that the bolt came loose and fell out then , really unusual for the pulley to stay on , as you say a good soak and try again , there is no chance of shifting it with levers all that will happen is damage to pulleys/rubber isolator/ timing belt cover

:i-m_so_happy:sorted Steveb