steve b

Fill the filter as you said and loosen one injector pipe and crank on the starter with the throttle pedal on the floor until it fires - in 15 sec cranks so the starter doesn't throw it's teddies Steve

A couple of thoughts Is there any mileage in converting an existing adaptor ring from a different engine to the LR g/box? I have one for a 4203 to S3/Defender box and another of unknown engine side kicking around here.. On the casting side , you will need a lot of heat to melt the volume needed and pre-heat the mould. Volume of cast could be estimated using sand to fill the cavities to be cast and a kitchen measuring jug Cutting the source aluminium into small pieces will speed up the melt too Steve

According to the factory parts book I have, that M/C is both 88 and 109, so yes Steve

Hi, I've recently looked at a Ex-MOD 109 FFR (big generator and 24v) and have the plate details so would like to know what info is there. Serial no. 91109*** D Con no. FVE 22A774 Reg no. 36 AJ 10 code no, 1705 0778 NSN 2320-99-893-3971 The plan is to re-comission it to a useable state with it's now fitted HT and rear door for the owner. Thanks for any info. Steve

That is the dual circuit S3 master cyl. which will fit early servo (single circuit) too. Steve

Primarily , yes, but they will still add to a firm location . The main point of my post was to have as big a head to ally contact area as possible. It is a smooth V8 petrol and not a 800hp blown 6BT after all.... Steve

A couple of dowels will deal with that. I think with the csk heads I'd have bigger heads that maybe just break out of each edge of the ally to maximise the contact surface Steve

Limestone wheels , obviously the only correct colour

Thanks for your input Eightpot. always good to have a professional clear up any doubts - I had not looked at the link the OP posted but I will next time. Steve

As far as I know polyurethane and synthetic enamel are the same , the latter being the motor re-finishing trade name. Seam sealer will work for years applied to a clean surface and painted over. On cutting/buffing let it cure for several weeks and be careful not to overheat if power buffing Steve

I think arctic white and alpine white are the same - and the colour you want. I'd use brushable seam sealer on the gutters as it will cure and bond well and will paint over. It's what JLR used originally. A bit more thinners will help in hot weather with synthetic enamel . At least it's white, just imagine how many bugs if it was yellow.... Steve

Agreed This will work, I'm confident. After all it follows the whole ethos of your build, made from what you have lying around Steve

A bit too accurate as well for a public forum? Anyhoo , as mentioned above , check the drive belt while it's off to check the WP bearings. Re-fitting it the other way round sometimes stops the squeak Steve

Yes, this is 300 Tdi onward direct acting cable type - a worthwhile upgrade from the earlier linkage type imo Steve

Would countersunk screws give you any more room instead of socket caps? Or socket button head? If you do end up casting this adaptor can be used as a pattern, just build it up with filler to the desired shape/ draught angles to suit? Steve

The "pistons" should move quite a distance - how does the new pre-assembled one compare? clips 515468 plate- spring to back plate from top 515467 plate- locking next from bottom 515470 plate- packing finallly from bottom. The boot 515466 then fits over the edge of 515467 hth Steve

Credit where it's due, together you have made it work on many levels, not least external aesthetics I like it a lot Steve

Yep - Mike clearly has a designers eye. Very nice work. Steve

That looks great out behind the Ibex, you must be very satisfied with that. Steve

I like those jack blocks, very useful. All looking good so far. Steve

Time for a new cable by the sound of it. They can get damaged if there is or has been a bad main earth - starter to battery . JLR cable if available would be my choice Steve

How much slack is in the cable with the HB off? Steve

Have to say, the cable is the prime suspect. With new shoes I assume the adjuster opposite the cable is near minimum ? Steve

It's worse if Stephen gets involved and they don't agree... That said it will be done perfectly. Impact were able to source genuine mast ram seals for a 5 ton Clark (American) mid-70's lift which was the last FLT ram I did. Agri-hire is my go to now for such stuff Steve

Search for brake cylinder honing tools @Gazzar has just done just this on his 101 thread Steve